Jump to content

Seiko 6309-704x Winding Stem and Crown Rebuild


Recommended Posts

Hi Fellow Watch Enthusiasts,

Hope you've all been keeping well. I was wondering if there's a Seiko Expert out there that can provide instructions on how to rebuild a winding stem and crown for a 6309-7049. I haven't done one before so I really have no clue. Any advice would be helpful.

IMG_5908.thumb.JPG.fe0c47c1deb1af58b6f2d0e1ab2640ab.JPG

 

IMG_5907.thumb.JPG.b3a85fc1f2c25ce7e39ca4429a6236e9.JPG

I do have the rubber gasket and the question is, do I just squeeze in the gasket into the crown and it will sit in place? Or, do I have to prise or turn something in the crown to free up access? The winding stem I guess I can put some loctite and thread it in but which loctite product?

gasket.jpg.05096a994fdd97c34d2b801bb8c975ab.jpg

 

thread.jpg.663e66ffed4151f71a1c1b2b734173ff.jpg

Thank you so much in advance and apologies for the noob question.

Regards,

Jesse

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, HouseofGeorge said:

The winding stem I guess I can put some loctite and thread it in but which loctite product?

I've used "Loctite 222 Low Strength" with good results. The advantage is that it will be easier to remove the crown when it's time to replace it, of course. I guess "Loctite 290 Medium to High Strength" would be fine too. Other than that I'm afraid I can't help you with.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Note where the o-ring is situated now.  It is possible to insert it too far.  Dig out the old o-ring.  You have the male portion of the stem removed.  That is good because it makes removal and installation of the o-ring much easier. 

Next issue.  I don's see a seat washer between the spring and female end of the stem.  I think the proper name for it is "spring seat", I'll have to dig out my notes.  It may work without the washer but not correctly.  It works much better with a washer in there.  I had one without the washer that felt like it was cutting metal every time I screwed it in.  Put a washer on it and it worked perfectly. 

I made a jig to hold the crown.  It is very simple, a block of wood with a 7mm hole in it.  I don't have a 7mm drill bit so it is probably the closest size bit from my index drill bit set.  It holds the crown steady while mashing down the spring and seat washer.  Lack of this simple jig is the number 1 cause of the missing washer.  I also put a dab of thick sticky grease on the washer to hold it in place during assembly. 

I can't keep all the Loctite numbers straight in my mind.  I use the purple, low strength stuff.  It the end of the threaded portion properly prepared and is reasonably flat, i.e. no burrs, it will hold fine on its own.  Loctite is just insurance. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will add, if the gasket is old and hard it will probably come out in chunks.  I use a curved dental pick to get them out but don't scratch the metal.  Gently hook the gasket and fish it out.  After you get the old gasket out, clean the gasket groove with solvent and Q-tips.  Make sure there are no crumbs or goo left in there.  The new gasket should be pliable enough to go in.  I use a little silicone grease to help it in.  VTA (Vintage Time Australia) gaskets are the best you can get and lucky for you, the seller is local. 

Your crown looks like a new replacement, maybe after market?  If it is genuine Seiko, the gasket is surely old and hard by now, they haven't made them for 30 years.  If it is one of the Philippine crowns, the gasket is crap.  You are doing the right thing by replacing it with a good part.  The rest of the crown is good in my experience.  I've used a couple of them.  

I'm not a watchmaker but I have a collection of Seiko that use this crown and I like to keep them water tight because they are always in the water.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, VWatchie said:

I've used "Loctite 222 Low Strength" with good results. The advantage is that it will be easier to remove the crown when it's time to replace it, of course. I guess "Loctite 290 Medium to High Strength" would be fine too. Other than that I'm afraid I can't help you with.

Thank you VWatchie. I'll try those for sure. Just getting things ready for when I finally start my restoration of my Seiko 6309-7049.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, bklake said:

Note where the o-ring is situated now.  It is possible to insert it too far.  Dig out the old o-ring.  You have the male portion of the stem removed.  That is good because it makes removal and installation of the o-ring much easier. 

Next issue.  I don's see a seat washer between the spring and female end of the stem.  I think the proper name for it is "spring seat", I'll have to dig out my notes.  It may work without the washer but not correctly.  It works much better with a washer in there.  I had one without the washer that felt like it was cutting metal every time I screwed it in.  Put a washer on it and it worked perfectly. 

I made a jig to hold the crown.  It is very simple, a block of wood with a 7mm hole in it.  I don't have a 7mm drill bit so it is probably the closest size bit from my index drill bit set.  It holds the crown steady while mashing down the spring and seat washer.  Lack of this simple jig is the number 1 cause of the missing washer.  I also put a dab of thick sticky grease on the washer to hold it in place during assembly. 

I can't keep all the Loctite numbers straight in my mind.  I use the purple, low strength stuff.  It the end of the threaded portion properly prepared and is reasonably flat, i.e. no burrs, it will hold fine on its own.  Loctite is just insurance. 

This is gold advice bklake. Thank you so much. I'll try to source a Spring Seat or Seat Washer but chances may be slim. The previous watchmaker may have lost it during installation or just didn't have it as it's aftermarket. What a shame.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, bklake said:

I will add, if the gasket is old and hard it will probably come out in chunks.  I use a curved dental pick to get them out but don't scratch the metal.  Gently hook the gasket and fish it out.  After you get the old gasket out, clean the gasket groove with solvent and Q-tips.  Make sure there are no crumbs or goo left in there.  The new gasket should be pliable enough to go in.  I use a little silicone grease to help it in.  VTA (Vintage Time Australia) gaskets are the best you can get and lucky for you, the seller is local. 

Your crown looks like a new replacement, maybe after market?  If it is genuine Seiko, the gasket is surely old and hard by now, they haven't made them for 30 years.  If it is one of the Philippine crowns, the gasket is crap.  You are doing the right thing by replacing it with a good part.  The rest of the crown is good in my experience.  I've used a couple of them.  

I'm not a watchmaker but I have a collection of Seiko that use this crown and I like to keep them water tight because they are always in the water.

@bklakeI've poked inside the crown to check on the gasket and can say that it's still pliable and not a jellied mess. I think it would be easy to pull out and clean the crown entirely.

As for the gasket, I've got them set aside for this restoration and the bonus bit is I got them from VTA, so woohoo!

I'm not a watchmaker by trade but just a hobbyist who loves to tinker with watches. With this project though, I'd like to give it the most meticulous attention as this watch is going to be a keeper.

Thanks again. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, bklake said:

It is called a Stem Spring Rest.  Part number 0997521. It shows as available at Julesborel.com and about $5 US.  Probably not the best choice for you due to shipping costs.  Adrian at VTA may be able to help.  There is an ebay seller from the UK that makes these.  Dave-eb.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/154289345980?hash=item23ec5c95bc:g:7mMAAOSwGnxbaX~e 

Cool. Thanks so much for those tips. I've contacted Dave yesterday as referred to by Guy but no response so far. I'll reach out to Adrian and try my luck otherwise it's Dave via eBay. Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • An update, for everyone who contributed advice, and for those who come after with a similar problem. Based on the answers received, I decided to work on the face of the hammer first. I used a square degussit stone to guarantee a vertical surface to work against, and ground the face back until it was square across 90% of the depth. I was conscious of the risk of removing too much material.* After I'd got the shape how I wanted it, I polished the surface with lapping film. To cut a long story short, it did the trick and the hammer hasn't slipped off the cam since. Of course, that wasn't the end of my problems. Have a look at this video and tell me what you think is wrong. https://youtu.be/sgAUMIPaw98 I solved it by rotating the minute counter finger on the chronograph (seconds) runner relative to the cam.  I'd be interested to hear your opinions on that. It seemed to be the right thing to do, but maybe I've introduced another problem I'm not aware of. * What is the correct relationship between the two hammers and cams, by the way? Should both hammers strike the cams exactly at the same time, or is it correct for the minute counter hammer to be a bit behind the seconds hammer? In this picture, I removed the adjusting screw at 1, and the hammers are contacting the cams simultaneously at 3 and 4. I had to turn the screw down tight to achieve this condition after stoning the seconds hammer and replacing the bridge.
    • It was easy enough to pop off. Once I had the cannon pinion hanging on the blades of the stump, I got my #2 tweezers on the gear attached to the staff and levered it down. That way none of the force was on the brass wheel itself.   I reinstalled it and the bridge, and it looks like a small but reasonable amount of end shake. It also spins easily with a blower. It stops quickly, but I think that's due to the large shoulder and about what I'd expect from this wheel.  
    • Oh, right. For some reason I was picturing a monocoque case in my head. Good looking watch!
    • Well said Ross. My reason for the thread, i like many of us dont want to lose the forum, such a well knitted group of individuals i feel. But things can happen out of anyone's control. Would be nice to have something in place just in case, if anyone has any ideas please speak up. 
    • Ok thanks Ross, I will give that a try!😁
×
×
  • Create New...