Jump to content

Skill-less in Seattle?


Recommended Posts

Hello all!  Newbie here!  I've always been interested in watch repair but didn't think I could handle the small parts with my aging eyes.  I've done a bunch of SMT electronics work this last year and it's gone great so hopefully the tiny parts in watches wont be an issue.  Am starting off with a tool kit and class from TimeZone and if all goes well, will probably enroll in the nightly program at the Norwest School of Horology in the fall.  Excited to dig into the forums!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the introduction and welcome to WRT @ryanscott6 ! 

I'm also pretty new to all of this. At 68 and following a stroke that clobbered my left eye a year ago, I was also worried that my eyesight wouldn't be good enough. It seems that it's fine - as others here have pointed out, you're usually looking through a loupe one-eyed anyway.

I'm stalled partially through my first watch movement restore due to waiting on oils and tools (all of which should be on their way).

Let us know what your first project is and don't be a stranger 🙂

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hiya from the UK , I am a fellow noob, having lots of fun (and occasional frustration) with a LOT of help from the guys on here. I seem to be focusing on Seiko watches as they are affordable, just got an electronic microscope and in ten mins when I have drank this tea, I'm about to have a crack at cleaning my first shock setting jewels. wish me luck! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, dismaldunc said:

. I seem to be focusing on Seiko watches as they are affordable, just got an electronic microscope and in ten mins when I have drank this tea, I'm about to have a crack at cleaning my first shock setting jewels. 

No microscope is needed to work on diafix / diashock shock settings, just be aware that if you remove the small ones on the the train it will be very difficult to refit them as you will need to adapt a tool for that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...