Jump to content

Another Chrono On Its Way To Me...

WillFly
 Share

Recommended Posts

WillFly Distinguished Member

WillFly

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've also been tempted by another vintage chronograph from the 1960s. I really must stop this! It's a "Luxor" branded chrono with a Landeron 248 movement - very similar to my Swiss Emperor. It was listed twice on eBay and got no bids, so I contacted the seller, made a lower offer and got it. Due in tomorrow...

 

The seller says it runs OK with all functions but probably needs a service. I'll check it out when it arrives and see how it goes.

 

Luxor.jpg

Edited by WillFly
Link to comment
Share on other sites
WillFly Distinguished Member

WillFly

Posted
  • Author
Posted

A pic of the movement and the inside case makes it look rather green around the case edge and a little grubby inside - so it probably needs a bit of the Lovick TLC at some stage... But, yes, it's nice to get these lovely old things cleaned up and serviceable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
WillFly Distinguished Member

WillFly

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The Luxor chrono came today. It's running OK and all functions work fine - but it does need a clean and some TLC. The crystal will get replaced as a matter of course, and I might try and tidy up the dial - which has been nibbled at the edges here and there. The movement - Landeron 248 - is a nice one but looks mucky, and I shall get that stripped down and cleaned up at some stage (after I've paid for a new guitar I'm having built at the moment...)!

 

Luxor%20chrono%20face.JPG

 

Luxor%20chrono%20movement.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
ianmedium WRT Addict

ianmedium

Posted
Posted

That one really is worth spending some money on to get it into shape. Not only because the movement is a lovely one but the little details that go to make something move form nice to lovely are all there. In particular for me are the case lugs. The way they are shaped and faceted really show off the dial and I reckon with a little gentle TLC and new crystal those nibbles won't matter as the rest of the dial will shine past them with its looks.

 

Put it on a nice shiny tobacco brown croc and it will "pop" even more. That is a great buy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

Thanks for sorting that out Will. There a jewel hiding under all that muck (no pun intended), I'm looking forward to seeing the refurbished item.

I'm about to finish off a Pierpont Chronograph with a Landeron 48 movement. Part of the fun was trying to find the bits that I needed (hammer & fly back lever). I eventually got them from France.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • joelcarvajal
      Gamblin Gamsol for cleaning?

      By joelcarvajal · Posted

      Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • nevenbekriev
      Main spring

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...