Jump to content

V172 Seiko Solar Watch Stem broke off - How to remove and replace?


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

This morning the stem of my Seiko Solar broke off.

  • The model: SSC297P1
  • The type of watch: V172 

If I want to repair this, what should I do? I was thinking remove the stem and buy a new crown/stem?

Could you advice me on what to do?

  • How can I remove the stem? (Probably should do that when I replace it right?) 
  • Where can I buy a crown and stem? The crown looks good, but it seems the stem broke off in the crown.  So better to replace the total right? I added some pictures so you can judge.

Curious to hear your thoughts and expertise how to take this forward. 

I'm new on the forum and introduced myself in the introduction group.

Thanks for your help,

Hans

 

 

IMG_2828.jpg

x.png

IMG_2825.jpg

IMG_2829.jpg

SEIKO_v172_e.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To get the old stem out follow the arrow where it says "push". Then push while pulling the stem out. I've never done this movement so I'm not 100 % sure. You can get a new stem from CousinsUK.com. To push in the new stem you will possibly have to push where it says "push" again while you wiggle the stem to fit into the square section of the sliding pinion.

To salvage the crown it could be that you'll find the following thread useful. Good luck!

EDIT: You will also have to cut (and preferably file) the new stem to get the correct length. You probably also want some thread locking glue that isn't too strong. I use Loctite 222 but perhaps Loctite 243 would be even better.

 

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks!

I ordered some Alum so let's try that.

I though am totally not able to get the stem out. I press with small pin in the hole (where the arrow points to with push), but i am not able to pull the stem out. 

Any idea how that works? I am watching some YouTube videos and there is always like a small button releasing the stem but cant find it here.

Anyone familiar with the system?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi What you will find highlighted by the push indication is a small lever, you push it down and this releases the stem.  Have a close look with the loupe.

I have had a look or the sheet for the 172A there are non listed in cousins esslingers or the SCWF lists the closest is the V182A which is a close cousin      did not get a hit with Ranfft either. I have attached the Seiko V182A in the hpe there are enough similarities to be helpful.

Seiko V182A (1).pdf

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 You can also attach a stem extender to whats left of the stem, a bit cheaper and can be done without removing the stem. Once sized just put a bit of epoxy 5 the stem, give time for the glue to cure, done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your help, in the end I found out that the stem needed to be in the right position for the lever to appear.

There is a protection mechanism in the watch, as this video shows around minute 2. The lever isn't appearing when the stem isn't in the right position. Quite an ingenious system, but that's what caused it. When I had it right it was out in 1 second, very easily, with some tweezers.
 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
    • I recently bought this but not on ebay. I figured if I want something Japanese I better check Japanese auction sites since these don't seem to pop up on ebay. I paid 83 € plus shipping & taxes. I think it was pretty reasonable for a complete set in good condition.
    • Did you take the friction pinion off the large driving wheel and grease it? Although, now that I think about it, that shouldn't have any effect on the free running of the train if the friction pinion isn't interacting withe minute wheel/setting wheel...
    • I did in fact use Rodico to get the spring into general position and "hold" it there while I used a fine oiler to make subtle positional adjustments.
×
×
  • Create New...