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Case Press And Case Opener


matabog

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I think I need a press for putting back the bezel on a flat watch (movement goes out through the front). I managed to open it by putting the watch inside a sort of case holder and using a knife to push against the mvmnt-holder-corner - so I scratched the case a bit. So I would like a caseopener also.

Advices, anyone?

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Just my experience with the above mentioned case closing tool that over time the top brace will bow ( from opposing pressure ) and then the closing top part will become uneven making it harder to close more accurately. I was quite disappointed with mine as after not really much use it was bowed so far out i could not use it anymore, though i admit mine was not Horotec it was exactly the same design. So if you are after a closing tool clockboy id recommend the same tool but with a direct overhead brace rather than side version. I believe Cousins do one with an overhead brace and cheaper than a Horotec. Just my 2 cents :)

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  • 5 months later...

attachicon.gif5601.jpg

 

Does anyone have this press? Bergeon 5601 it says on it.

 

 

Any opinions?

 

 

I have one (not branded Bergeon but identical) which I bought from my supplier in Brisbane (unfortunately now out of business).

 

I've been looking for one for Geo but no luck so far.

 

I find mine to be excellent, the screw down movement feels almost hydraulic as it's so smooth. Even after pressing some very tight cases/bezels I can't see any warping at all.

 

Recommended depending on price and your "level of want".

 

;-)

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I have it already. I was just wondering about opinions on it. I am just a watch enthusiast.

 

I was wondering how can you dismantle it and clean/oil it? Because the cylinder even when released from the screw does not come out. I was wondering if pulling out the friction-fit  lower piece might help.

 

Thank you,

Bogdan

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II've been looking for one for Geo but no luck so far.

Thanks Jim. I was just thinking about it again today when I saw the picture of your bench on the thread to do with the case back opener.

Some things look just right, and that tool does! :)

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I was wondering how can you dismantle it and clean/oil it? Because the cylinder even when released from the screw does not come out. I was wondering if pulling out the friction-fit  lower piece might help.

 

Jim might be able to clarify this, but is there a small screw in the side of the case acting as an anti-rotation pin? If there is you may have to remove it to allow the cylinder to come out. Just a thought!

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That screw on the side of the cylinder releases the threaded piece (maybe you could replace it to use other types).

There is indeed a screw on the other side, on the body of the tool, that enters the groove in the cylinder and yet another one, in the front of the tool (that can be seen in the picture) that I suppose minimises the space between the tool and the piston/cylinder.

 

But they are not the problem as the cylinder can be unscrewed all the way and moves somehow freely in the tool-body - it even turns freely. But exits the body until it hits the lower piece and has no more space to exit.

 

The remaining option is to remove the lower piese, but that is a friction-fit one and I suppose it is quite hard to take out - and even then I'm not sure it will clear enough space to take out the cylinder.

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post-1248-14483794051049.jpg

This is a Seiko case/crystal press and case opener that I'm using. I love it as it served it's purpose well and save space.

post-1248-14483799329693.jpg

The pics above show it as a case opener with all the case holder dies and the clamps.

post-1248-14483802682013.jpg

The set is now changed to a case/crystal press by replacing with a longer handle and hooking a latch on the body. And clamping a dies holder at the base.

post-1248-14483806042899.jpg

The dies of plastic and aluminium material in different shapes and sizes are part of the set. The yellow soft plastic dies are add-on. Very useful for odd shape cases and stone set cases.

post-1248-14483821775251.jpg

The wooden box where the dies are kept.

Sent from my Lenovo S650 using Tapatalk

Edited by steven
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OK, it's quite easy.

 

First - DO NOT try to undo the screw marked A, it's tongued to fit the groove in the piston (mine shown removed after disassembly).

 

post-1141-0-36795400-1448417406_thumb.jp

 

Remove the dies from the piston and the base (white and green items in the pic below).

 

Invert the press and support the platform over the edge of a bench or similar.

 

Use a brass drift, dowel or other suitable tool to drive item No 2 down in the direction of the red arrow and remove it.

 

Turn the press to upright and screw the piston (No 3) down until it disengages from the screw, you can then jiggle it out of the press.

 

post-1141-0-19795700-1448417732_thumb.jp

 

You can then remove the groove screw and any other parts you wish to clean and lubricate.

 

Assembly is just the reverse, the base die holder can be pressed in last of all.

 

Screw No 4 is used to tighten the cylinder to keep the piston nice and centred, just tighten it enough to remove any side play.

 

Now that I have mine apart I'll give it a clean and lubricate  :lol:

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers

 

Jim.

 

 

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In case this helps, here's a breakdown by parts

 

1 - Press Body

2 - Top Die

3 - Wheel Nut

4 - Wheel

5 - Wheel Pin

6 - Piston Screw

7 - Piston Tension Screw

8 - Piston Groove Screw

9 - Bottom Die

10 - Die Platform

11 - Piston

12 - Piston Die Holder Screw

13 - Piston Die Holder

 

post-1141-0-15551200-1448420404_thumb.jp

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attachicon.gif5601.jpg

 

Does anyone have this press? Bergeon 5601 it says on it.

 

 

Any opinions?

So that press is pretty okay? found a place where i think i can buy that . Have bought some other things from Taobao . Hope it's okay to put the webaddress out? Otherwise delete it? . http://tw.taobao.com/item_suggests/43068855276.htm

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I have a cheap lever style (Chinese) and to be honest it's not very good. In my opinion the screw down styles are better because you get more control. This is the one I am saving up for.

I have the Indian version of this and while it works for cases and glasses, it flexes too much even with medium force. That is because the concept is flawed, pillars should be placed on opposite sides. Plus they are too long and the screw doesn't reach with small watches.

Edited by jdm
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  • 2 months later...

A bit of an old topic but after fighting with a very tight case that would not close, I'm starting to look at those case presses...

 

There seems to be consensus on the screw down types over the lever types.

 

Any opinons on Nylon vs brass dies ?

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I got both, screw down and lever presses. The lever press is faster than the screw down. The screw down is more precise if you will. It all depends on the quality in the end...this is at similar quality.

 

On the dies, the Nylon ones, are practical since they don't scratch and if good quality and used correctly will last. The metal/aluminum ones shouldn't be used directly on watches since they may scratch them but they are tough and will take "punishment"...not that you need to do that, still....

 

I believe it all boils down to preferences and style of the watchmaker...and budget? My take on it: buy the best you can afford and feel comfortable with.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

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