Jump to content

What tools do I need to remove the back of this hugo boss watch and replace the strap?


Recommended Posts

Hi It looks like a snap on case from the images provided. Look round the edge of the case for a notch for the case knife. It also looks as if the movement will be removed through the front (dial side) but in order to do that remove the back and re post pictures of the movement so we can see what we are dealing with.   Tools required are  a case back knife and a sharp edge blade . ie safty razor to open the gap for the knife. remember to wear a safty glove on the hand holding the movemrnt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

Hi It looks like a snap on case from the images provided. Look round the edge of the case for a notch for the case knife. It also looks as if the movement will be removed through the front (dial side) but in order to do that remove the back and re post pictures of the movement so we can see what we are dealing with.   Tools required are  a case back knife and a sharp edge blade . ie safty razor to open the gap for the knife. remember to wear a safty glove on the hand holding the movemrnt.

It does have a notch, maybe didn't show too well in the pictures. Time to get ordering.

I might want to open front to take out the movement since there is some debris on the dial I want to clean out.

Will be updating as I go. Thank you! Now I know it is not a screw back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To take the back off a simple case knife should do the trick, and to remove the strap a basic springbar tool is all you need.

Both tools can be found for very little money at all the usual outlets or for a lot of money if you want tools that are claimed to be Swiss made.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, deployed said:

I do not mind getting some tools myself to to this.

21 hours ago, deployed said:

I would like to know where to buy a replacement back cover and straps, as they are pretty worn out.

There are no spare parts available for fashion watches. Only generic parts that fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, jdm said:

There are no spare parts available for fashion watches. Only generic parts that fit.

I just looked at the thread, op did not provide the link for where to buy the japanese style case openers.

Are they just as versatile as the bergeon ones?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Most generic case tools work satisfactorily, there is little need to be buying expensive kit at this point. Once you have the back off you will find a miyota, hattori movement if yous is faulty replacements are usually available.

Yes, so if I am not to but the bergeon, would you recommend me a set of economic case opening tools to buy?

Edited by deployed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, jdm said:

Have a read below:

 

So I went to ebay and found these two things:

1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/133423157205

2. https://www.ebay.com/itm/384272199359

Hopefully they are good enough.

 

Otherwise I can always get the bergeon spring bar tool (if necessary):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325096011934

Edited by deployed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So an update, I received my case knife tool, but sadly the gap is just too small for my case knife to fit, also tried to use a pocket knife and screw driver, the pocket knife was scratched and the case got scratched, and the screw driver was bent (it is a cheap one).

In the end, I think I will not be able to open it, thus off to someone else it goes!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, deployed said:

 the gap is just too small for my case knife to fit.

You need to sharpen the knife, that is normal. And you need a good holder. In general, the better the tools the easier the job, although somee casebacks are annoyingly stubborn.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • An incabloc spring? About 10p at the current price 🤣
    • Have you ever seen grease spread?  I use Molykote DX on the keyless, cannon pinion, etc and cannot imagine it spreading. Similarly, HP1300 should not be a problem, as long as you don't splash too much about.  9010 does like to travel though. I've recently re-serviced a couple of my watches I first serviced about 5 years ago. I was a bit too liberal with the oil and grease back then, but it hasn't spread everywhere. I only epilame on balance cap stones, escape wheel and pallet stones (and auto wheels if they need it).   If you use it all over, the oil might bead-up and travel even further - think of using RainX on your car windows.
    • Polish it where the old part cracked as well. Get rid of the stress-raisers.
    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
×
×
  • Create New...