Jump to content

My first shellacking!!


Recommended Posts

14 hours ago, VWatchie said:

I wouldn't be surprised if buying cheap watches sold for repair or parts and then repair them yourself is way more expensive than buying a Rolex watch. I actively avoid thinking about how much money I've spent on tools, parts, and consumables 😖

So far I have found it almost impossible to find an honest spares and repair watch or almost any watch on eBay, all the ones I have bought all seem to have some hidden history.

I suspect most people buy the Mumbai specials then sell them as spares and repairs when they eventually break. Might start restricting my purchases to flea markets band car boot sales to see if the standard improves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When buying a "parts only", non-working watch from eBay, don't expect very much. Many of them were donor watches with all their good parts scavenged. And be extra careful when the buyer doesn't accept returns.

With watches advertised as "working", the prices won't be cheap. I especially like those from Japan, Korea and Hong Kong. I have a few of these that work well straight out of the box.

Mumbai specials are a whole different kettle of fish. The top grade ones are working watches that have not been properly serviced. The middle grade are defective watches that have been "serviced" by their in-house master watchmakers. Then there is their bottom of the barrel. I would not touch these with a 10 foot pole. 

I buy Mumbai specials regularly. My mentor made me practise on them to test my level of skill. I would not advise beginners to buy these because if you do not know what is right, you won't know what is wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...