Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

 

I finally have a project where I can use my new/old lathe.  I've googled until my eyes ache trying to get some information on this lathe motor.  There is plenty of information about lathes online but I can't find much about the motors.  I have a few questions if anyone can help.  1) Is there a site where I can find general information about this motor or other jeweler motors.  2) Does the oil go in the holes that I marked with a blue line?  2.5 ) Since those holes have been open to the elements for who knows how long, should I try and clean them out.  Then I worry a bunch of solidified crud inside will drop to the spindle and do harm.  3) Where does one buy brushes or other parts if needed.  4) I plan to use 3 in 1 multi purpose oil (not their motor oil); is that reasonable? 5) It seems to run fine, so is there any need to take it apart and clean it?

 

Thanks and TGIF.  Arron.

motor_LI.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If Its working ok dont dismantle it, and yes oil is dripped in the holes onto the motor shaft bearings but first clean the holes out , I would use a synthetic oil 10/40 personaly but use what ever you choose but remember not to mix it by using others along with the 3 in one.

Judging by the style of the motor its quite old so finding brushes and parts would be an issue, although brushes can usually ne moddified to fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a very common lathe motor.  I have two or three.  Does it run?  If so, don't mess with the brushes.  I would think the brushes would last several lifetimes unless they were used in a factory setting.

If you really need to replace the brushes, one place to start is here.


Also check with Dave. This might be the correct brush.

2022-01-29 07_09_27-Dave's Watch Parts and Tools - Lathe tools — Mozilla Firefox.png

Edited by LittleWatchShop
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I appreciate the information.  How many drops of oil should i put in the holes and how often.  I will only be using it occasionally.  is there any thought that i should replace the felt wicks inside the holes?  they look brownish black (i put a singular light diode down the hole to see).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Hi Arron, sorry I am a bit late to the party.  I recently serviced a very similar lathe motor for a Boley 8mm watchmakers lathe.  The lathe was running not as smooth as it should so I actually serviced both the motor and the foot pedal, and a great watchmaker stripped down and serviced the lathe headstock for me when I was taking an escapement course at AWCI this summer.

boley-lathe.thumb.jpg.91910452d87882e8f7ba0ca3f96cd8e9.jpg

I am using sewing machine oil to add a couple drops to the felt pads hidden under the oiling holes you had identified earlier. You likely don't need to replace the pads, but do need to remember to oil them several times a year ( once a month) or they willl dry up.

 

motor-oiling-point.thumb.jpg.3ffbc29d26d9b689e19837d89153b76b.jpg

I checked the carbon brushes, by removing the two screw covers on either side of the motor.  

motor-side.thumb.jpg.8f1b9e7286fe88d5e7fa9955f16d08f1.jpg

In my case the carbon piece was still fairly long but I had to replace the springs as they were mangled.

carbon-brushes.thumb.jpg.abdaadc87d1b7579cad4b1796edb1fd7.jpg

I also opened the motor housing by removing the spindle attached by a couple of set screws, then the main two big screws that go through the length of the body.

motor-dissassembled.thumb.jpg.8403a8d4ca5ee9fda121c77ae39309ff.jpg

 

 Once opened it revealed the carbon buildup on the rotor that needed to be cleaned using a fine emery cloth and extra extra fine steel wool so it was nicely polished brass again (be careful not to wear down the brass on the rotor by going too crazy 🙂

motor-rotor.thumb.jpg.7c8dcd2c83b18c653c6566500d9fba9e.jpg

I greased/oiled the bearing inside the housing and reassembled the motor.

motor-housing.thumb.jpg.f0240d93cec05c07363c2576b52d5e87.jpg

Now that the carbon has been cleaned off the rotor, and the carbon brushes are pushing evenly against the rotor (replaced the springs, and positioned the brushes so the worn curved ends match the rotor curve), and oiled, the motor runs very smoothly.

Good luck with your lathe!

Terry

 

Edited by TimeWerks
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, TimeWerks said:

it was nicely polished brass again (be careful not to wear down the brass on the rotor

Meant to say polished Copper, not Brass on the rotor.  duhh!  That is what I get for typing this stuff up in the midnight hours.  The main point is you want to have a clean connection for your electrical contact point.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you to both of you!  I've been somewhat derailed by this quandary for a couple of days now. I am guessing that the point of the wider tweezers is to support the whole spring at the same time in an effort to prevent it going under tension... I have already discovered the Zen of a clutter free space, and trying to keep my work well away from the edge, however the most terrifying of the flights wasn't so short, I had my work in the middle of the table and nothing else around.  That particular launch was towards me.  I distinctly recall feeling the spring hit my left hand as it escaped.  I only found it by dumb luck, on the floor, between the legs of my chair.  I need to order a pack of replacements just in case.  I think I recall a thread discussing where to find them, and the differences between the clones and the authentic ETA ones, pointing out that they're not interchangeable (the clones being longer IIRC).  Now I just have to find that thread again.  What I haven't mastered is the zen of the search function here.  I'm sure I"ll get that down eventually. So this is similar to, but different from one of the posts I had found in my original searches (or maybe I'm just hallucinating, I can't find the post I thought I remember).  The bits about the corner filled in a gap in what I'd read before.  At least I have a more clear picture in my head about what needs to happen now.  Yes, I've learned about how touchy these springs are.  What I'm not sure I have a good grasp on is the understanding of what causes the spring to flex, other than to say "the slightest little touch"  I think I'm going to try a small bit of Rodico to position the spring next time.
    • I think it's stamped on the inside cover. 309 I think.
    • Hi all, needing a little help. I have an old Casio AQ-321G, but have no idea what battery it takes. I've looked around online, but cannot see anything... I see a 309 stamped on the case back, could this be it....? Can you please help, below are some pictures:
    • The radial teeth are for hte seconds register, and the other (which is simple and doesn' take away significant torque from the train) for the minutes register.
    • The original 6139A manual is very clear in how to disassemble and how to assemble ...... step-by-step. However I haven't seen the 3169B manual, even in the Japanese version around, which clearly highlights the difference in center-wheel.   6139A Seiko Technical Guide.pdf 6139_A.pdf 6139A.pdf 6139b.pdf 6139B repair guide jp.pdf        
×
×
  • Create New...