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Closing a hand (reducing the diameter)


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Been working on another Vulcain Cricket.  This is a rebuild from a rusty start and a donor watch (also a rusty watch).

The hand was floppy on the cannon pinion.  Not sure how that happened--was not my fault--the watch came to me in pieces (the last guy gave up I guess).  In one of my watchmaking books, there was a mention of using a jeweling tool to close the hand tube, so that is what I did.

Of course...as delicate as I was, I overshot and ended up having to use a staking tool to open it back up slightly.  Got it now.

I have two of these Seitz tools.  One has a base hole of 3mm and the other 4mm.  I only had one solid stump and it was a 3mm one.  I prefer the 4mm tool, so I just let the stump "float" for this exercise.

2022-01-21 08_48_37-P1010495.JPG ‎- Photos.png

2022-01-21 08_48_22-P1010494.JPG ‎- Photos.png

2022-01-21 08_48_50-P1010496.JPG ‎- Photos.png

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  • 3 weeks later...

The tools for this job are offered by Seitz - Bergeon. Any jewelling press taking 4mm stakes can be used.

Seitz - Bergeon 31000   Set of 4 Tools

Sizes: Ø1.25, 1.75, 2.25 & 2.75mm

For Seitz 31300 Jewelling Outfit (B59401)

Tools for reducing hour hand holes. These make it possible to reduce hand
holes very accurately, to within 0.005mm. It is essential to use the micrometer
screw for this work.

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  • 1 year later...

Hello @LittleWatchShop,

Can this Seitz press (31300) also be used to reduce the diameter of the main plate hole for the barrel arbor. I.e. To reduce endshake for non-jeweled pivot/arbor holes? 

If yes, probably with a hammer and not the micrometer. But can this tool be used like that? 

Thanks so much in advance! 

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    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
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