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Beginner fitting hands


Gordie

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Hi guys 

Just home from work now and last night I bought all related tools to work on a movement. So this is going to be a really scary ride. I have no other choice as I can't seem to find anyone who will complete a repair.

As I stated earlier I contacted marshall at wristwatch revival on YouTube a week ago and no reply with a yes or no at all I also emailed 3 listed online registered omega repair shops and none seem to be able to do this with the high demand  out there now 

So I have only 2 roads to go down , 1 sell it and recover some of my cost  2 to learn and attempt it myself.

In hind sight I should have returned it in 2020 when I could but it was just that I searched for so long for a good one I could afford that once I had it in my hand I could not risk sending it back.

So I am going to do this period I will not be stopped.

With that resolve I ordered all the tools and ultrasonic clean machine ,oil,screwdrivers,hand pry bars ,mat ,hand push tool, case vise and magnified headgear.

Here are some more of the pictures you have asked for

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1 hour ago, Gordie said:

So I am going to do this period I will not be stopped.

That's the spirit! Although I would strongly recommend you practice on a few scrap movements, one or two fully working Unitas 6497/6498 movements or clones (pocket watch), and a few Vostok 2409/2414s movement first. It takes time and practice to master this micro mechanic universe well enough that you can make a mechanical watch tick reasonably well.

Good luck!

Edited by VWatchie
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1 minute ago, VWatchie said:

That's the spirit! Although I would strongly recommend you practice on a few scrap movements, one or two fully working Unitas 6497/6498 movements or clones (pocket watch), and a few Vostok 2409/2414s movement firsts. It takes time and practice to master this micro mechanic universe well enough that you can make a mechanical watch tick reasonably well.

Good luck!

Thank you 

Yes for sure I ordered on ebay a lot of 4 automatics that are broken so I can get some time with tweezers and magnification these were only 50 bucks so who cares .

One question comes to mind when I remove the hands . How do I set the watch so the calender is activated at right point?

 

 

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39 minutes ago, Gordie said:

How do I set the watch so the calender is activated at right point?

Simply rotate the crown when in setting mode and when the date indicator flips stop rotating. You set the time on most watches by rotating the crown counterclockwise, but not all so make sure you get it right. You then press on the hour hand pointing at 12. I do recommend mounting the dial just before doing this. If you mount the dial after the setting procedure (or do something else with the movement) there's a risk you touch the crown and you'll get out of sync.

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The Fact is its no harder to repair the omega than any other Automatic just more expensive if you cock up, so with that in mind do as Vwatchie advised and practice. The watches you have are all broken, fine for disassembly etc and attempted repair but I would add get one or two cheapies that at least work that way once cleaned and re built and still working that's an acheivement on its own and will add to your confidence.  all the very best.

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21 hours ago, Gordie said:

With that resolve I ordered all the tools and ultrasonic clean machine ,oil,screwdrivers,hand pry bars ,mat ,hand push tool, case vise and magnified headgear.

Another thing helpful to do especially if you're going to work on one particular watch is to search online and maybe might find somebody else servicing one. It would be really nice to get the technical bulletin but that might not actually exist? One of the problems with companies like Omega is didn't get a parts list but they tend to assume that you know how to service the watch and you will not typically find individual detailed service bulletins for every single watch they ever made. Then newer stuff that might be available becomes problematic to find because they watermark every single page and anyone who has access to that would never release it in the wild because there must be a reason why Omega so paranoid over where their technical documentation has got to. Which means even if it exists you probably won't really get it.

Out of curiosity how did you pick your oil choices? If you look at link number four on the cousins website I searched for a particular word which Gives us a whole list of interesting documents?  This is a sampling of Omega working instructions unfortunately that have considerably more but this is all cousins house. You should download number 40 which covers lubrication and number 81 but 40 is more useful. One of the more interesting features for you in this would be 11.1.Procedure in Customer Service for lubrication of reversing wheel. Ill find that some of the links I have below they disassembled the reverser wheel which require special tools but That isn't entirely necessary there's a special lubrication for the wheel LUBETA V105 Which can be purchased in a small bomb it's not that expensive. Otherwise if you don't do it right they can make a horrible grinding sound.

Then I didn't really look but there's probably videos on YouTube of people servicing the watch. You do have to be careful with any of the videos any of the links or anything else just because someone has a video has a link shows how to service the watch doesn't mean they actually know what they're doing at all. But still you can see pictures of the watch in pieces etc.

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1661-omega-562-walkthrough/

https://watchguy.co.uk/service-omega-seamaster-calibre-562-2/

https://clocksavant.com/blogs/news/servicing-a-1960s-omega-seamaster-calibre-562

https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=Working

 

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Thank you so much guys for your very kind words and vote of confidence you have for me.

All tools I ordered from bergeon I think it's called esslinger watchmaker tools.

And John I ordered as per multiple YouTube rebuilders like nakedwatchbuilder suggested oil and grease numbers .

This fella is a hell of a master in his builds that got me started in collecting vintage watches. And now I don't like digital or battery movements all I collect is manual and autos 

First lot of tools are due in on Jan 16 and I can't wait to get started 

Most worrying thing is how am I going to keep track of screws as in put back in right place 

I am going to attempt this on a Saturday when I can take all day if needed 

 

 

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5 hours ago, Gordie said:

Most worrying thing is how am I going to keep track of screws as in put back in right place

I find that after the watch is clean if you organize the screws in basically put all the screws That look the same together. Then as things get complicated is best to keep things separate. Like all the dial side screws: one cleaning container depends on how you to McLean the watch. You have an automatic call the automatic parts go together. Then the most important of all is photograph everything.

Sometimes for the screws the parts list will have reasonably decent pictures of what the screw looks like to allow you to figure out what a mystery screw is.

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20 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

I find that after the watch is clean if you organize the screws in basically put all the screws That look the same together. Then as things get complicated is best to keep things separate. Like all the dial side screws: one cleaning container depends on how you to McLean the watch. You have an automatic call the automatic parts go together. Then the most important of all is photograph everything.

Sometimes for the screws the parts list will have reasonably decent pictures of what the screw looks like to allow you to figure out what a mystery screw is.

Thank you John for your links 

I have been going over them more and more  it is very interesting.

Is it a good idea to a new main spring to install will it is open or keep the old one ?

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As a newbie myself I would highly suggest you get a cheap, but in working order watch to work on before you start on that Omega.  
taking apart, cleaning and rebuilding the cheap watch and having it run again, or not run again will teach you a huge amount. 
I have destroyed several cheap watches on this journey with the most simple of mistakes.  
All that aside, good luck and have fun! 
 

Sorry, I don’t have an answer about the mainspring. 
 

Edited by BillM
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12 hours ago, BillM said:

As a newbie myself I would highly suggest you get a cheap, but in working order watch to work on before you start on that Omega.  
taking apart, cleaning and rebuilding the cheap watch and having it run again, or not run again will teach you a huge amount. 
I have destroyed several cheap watches on this journey with the most simple of mistakes.  
All that aside, good luck and have fun! 

This seems like such a simple concept and watch repair yet? It's why I always recommend one of the Chinese clones the 6497 cheap it's new and it's running. Often times people start with broken watches To fix they assume of it still broken it was the fault of the watch they would never look at themselves. This is also where having one of the inexpensive Chinese timing machines is good. Verify that the wristwatch really is running taken apart put it together do that a lot of times it make sure it still running. But we do have people that insist on working on their Omega or somewhere else in the group somebody after getting tired worked on the Rolex and now are puzzled of why Rolex parts are very hard to get an extremely expensive and I think they'll be about a $4-$600 lesson. But sometimes those expensive lessons are really good if they would actually learn from it

14 hours ago, Gordie said:

Is it a good idea to a new main spring to install will it is open or keep the old one ?

It depends upon who you ask? Where I work the watchmakers before me several of them wouldn't even touch a watch unless it a new mainspring. They didn't you look at the old they had to have a new or else I guess that is what they were taught in school. But even Omega has a working instruction on recycling a mainspring barrel. Basically you disassemble let you look at the mainspring make sure it's right and put it all back together with the proper lubrication.

Also really important on anything older than it's been worked on before you because who knows the condition of inside of the Barrel. Someone before you mighty use something really sticky or at least it's sticky now and you getting no power. Or typically blued steel mainspring is will set themselves still no longer have power they definitely have to be changed.

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thank you John 

You sound like a very knowledgeable seasoned watch lover 

I look forward to all you have mentioned as it was great knowledge for me 

I am a little nervous to tackle this but more anxious to get started 

while I am waiting for the tools to show I find myself reading tons of past writeups and the subject.

also going over many past omega service listings 

all of the help all you guys have given is wonderful and gets me in a really good mindset to take the back off and go!

hope you all have a great weekend

 

 

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I strongly agree with the above statements about working on cheaper watches first. Pocket watches are bigger and easier to start on. I serviced about 15 before moving on to wristwatches - I felt quite confident, but suddenly the parts seemed so small !

Buy some cheap Swiss movements, - I recommend doing at least 5 before having a go at your precious Omega. Or do the same one 5 times, practicing handling the balance/hairspring, oiling the balance jewels. I know from experience there is a high probability of trashing the first movements

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1 hour ago, mikepilk said:

I strongly agree with the above statements about working on cheaper watches first. Pocket watches are bigger and easier to start on. I serviced about 15 before moving on to wristwatches - I felt quite confident, but suddenly the parts seemed so small !

Buy some cheap Swiss movements, - I recommend doing at least 5 before having a go at your precious Omega. Or do the same one 5 times, practicing handling the balance/hairspring, oiling the balance jewels. I know from experience there is a high probability of trashing the first movements

Thanks Mike 

I did order a lot of 4 automatic watches from ebay that are listed as not running  to junk if I do that 

These are only $50 so I don't care what I do but I really want to see if I can detect what is wrong as some training.

As far as my omega I must say that I don't intend to destroy it and saying I love this watch is putting it mildly.

I watch at least 15 on ebay go out of my reach over about 4 years 

This omega I will not wear,  just around the house so I don't mark it . I do have a idea for a lighted display case for all my collection to be seen so I can admire.

 

 

 

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Guys my ebay lot of watches arrived today and I was both shocked and stunned at how bad and good these are.

2 are real keepers and 2 are terrible and sad that someone could disrespectful treat a watch. These 2 have crystal smashed face destroyed and hands missing while the other 2 are what I think are gold.

First is a Bulova aerojet auto unknown year but Google says late 50's early 60's

And second is a seiko  auto  unknown year as well and also looks like gold.

Bulova runs but stem does nothing when pulled out 

Seiko does not run but stem moves hands like it should 

But check these out ,look at the condition of these , the seiko looks like new never worn

The Bulova face is perfect  

This is going to be fun!

 

 

 

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Edited by Gordie
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15 hours ago, Gordie said:

Bulova runs but stem does nothing when pulled out 

Seiko does not run but stem moves hands like it should 

 

Two interesting problems for you to figure out and fix !

The Bulova looks nice, what's the movement ?

Seiko are good to learn on as parts are plentiful and cheap (for most models).

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4 hours ago, mikepilk said:

Two interesting problems for you to figure out and fix !

The Bulova looks nice, what's the movement ?

Seiko are good to learn on as parts are plentiful and cheap (for most models).

Hi Mike 

On the Bulova it says 11alacd swiss 

The balance wheel is ticking perfectly

 

 

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2 hours ago, mikepilk said:

Here it is on Ranfft (I good reference site) http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Bulova_11ALACD

Looks like a good movement to practice on.

Thank you for that 

This Bulova is one of the nicest watches I have seen and not heard of it . The case gold is flawless and watch inside is very clean . This one shocked me when I opened the box. The face and hands are like new.

This one is going to be a very good watch to wear.

 

On another note my screwdrivers and mat arrived , can't wait to get started

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  • 2 weeks later...

Guys 

Just wanted to give you all some news 

I have been not posting any news after I got a watch repair book 

298 pages and I have been reading through this now twice. It has opened my eyes more then I think it would.

As for the omega I now see some missing parts. The eaby seller posted pictures showing brackets that hold the movement in the case . The watch I received has none in there. 

I don't have a good felling about this omega now.

 

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12 hours ago, Gordie said:

As for the omega I now see some missing parts. The eaby seller posted pictures showing brackets that hold the movement in the case . The watch I received has none in there. 

I don't have a good felling about this omega now.

Always a problem with eBay sellers when the picture doesn't match the text. But usually the picture is supposed to be the item you're purchasing. The case Clamps don't fall off by themselves if you've a picture showing case clamps your watch should have case clamps. If they're missing then you have to ask yourself why are they missing?

If you have nice pictures of what you are purchasing do your pictures match what you received? There is usually a serial number on the Omega watch so you can look at the pictures and see the number see if it matches the watch may be didn't even purchase the watch you thought you did?

This is one of the problems with watches purchasing them online? Often times you don't get a picture of the movement. You told that the watches of this or it's been serviced or its whatever but the watches a sealed unit typically so how do you know what's in there or not? This comes up with people who buy replica watches thinking there buying a real cheap whatever and getting a great deal and they have zero idea help for the quality of the watch is inside the case. So purchasing complete watches can be a bit problematic and you really do need to check them out the instant you get them otherwise as you're finding out down the road you have surprises may be.

Then if we exclude the picture issue not all watches come with case clamps. Not all watches need case clamps. Even though the movement will have a space to put them in the case may not. But if you have a picture of the movement that you are purchasing and they're missing that is definitely an issue.

Then you're missing a helpful picture? I need a picture of the inside of the case back so I can read the numbers.

 

 

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thanks guys 

your support helps me more then you know

now that i am learning more about what i am looking at , i am shocked i see some issue as in knowledge

so some of it is sinking in  yeah

here is a picture of my omega ,this one is from the ebay listing in 2020 second one is one i took of it last few weeks

 

image.png.1887b88158aaa2f9ee45bd9505b2a036.png

IMG_20220104_173004.jpg

Edited by Gordie
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  • 5 weeks later...

Guys after a monumental roller coaster time in the last few weeks , I have a update to the omega saga.

I sent omega a email asking for parts I needed and they asked for some detailed closeup pics of my watch.

When I got the reply I was shocked again . They told me my stem , crown and crystal was not right.

So long story short all related omega parts ended up at $575 Canadian 

Stem ,crown,crystal,bezel ,o ring,case clamps,screws,main spring,hair springs and omega 18 k gold buckle.

I Am not here to tell you it was easy no not at all, it was a real painful and worry some time . Too me on and off about 3 weeks.

 

But I did it....... 

I am so stunned that I can't stop looking at it. It turned out so good. 

I fixed the Seiko but the Bulova is too far gone 

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Edited by Gordie
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18 minutes ago, Gordie said:

So long story short all related omega parts ended up at $575 Canadian 

I'm not sure if I understood correctly. Are you saying that Omega Canada will sell you (an individual) these parts, or that they will service the watch, replacing these parts, and the final price is C$ 575?

If the first, that is unheard of, and I suppose many people will try to get parts that way. If the latter, is a normal price for Swiss manufacturers official service centers.

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