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1 minute ago, LittleWatchShop said:

"single pole"

Regarding the resistor...I can only guess.  Probably dropping voltage to meet the specs of the bulb.  Worst thing that can happen is burn out the bulb.

Whoops regarding pole...

 

Ok, so if it is in fact just for the bulb and not to reduce the amount of heat produced by the heater resistor, then like you said, easy to test as I bought a 10 pack of bulbs.  My only fear is this is some sort of safety thing to reduce heat or something but no clue as this is new to me.

 

Thanks again for the help and advice.

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Greetings everyone, hope all is well.

 

Well, it's done.  I don't call this a full restoration due to lack of skills and still learning techniques, etc. so we will call this a half or semi-restoration.

 

Everything works perfect and is SO MUCH quieter than it was when I originally got it.  There are a few things I did that couldn't stay true to the original....

 

The power cord strain relief connector is homemade with a rubber grommet and two zip ties.  I know they make them for this but will just have to keep looking and will be easy to switch out in the future since I used quick discomments (spade connectors) for most of the connections to assist with future maintenance if needed.

 

For the Forward and Reverse switch, I elected to go with the one that has 3 positions or ON OFF ON instead of the original design that has just two positions.  I figured this would be another good safety measure to have so I can ensure everything is completely off when plugged in.

 

I did elect to keep the ceramic\concrete resistor that is for the light, just because it was original, the company Hamilton for Hamilton Beach is on the resistor as well as it was still in spec.  These were the only two connection points I soldered due to the heavy gauge wire from these.

 

I think the label for the control panel turned out ok.  I put a piece of mylar over the print to help protect it as I printed the sticker clear labels from my laser printer.  I originally was going to go to Office Depot, but the last time, their prints also had dots here and there where the toner missed.  Compared to how it was, I think it's an improvement and I wasn't going for museum quality as I plan on using this.

 

Well I think that just about does it for me, I know the paint job is very amateurish and that will be the LAST time I use spray lacquer over spray paint, will save lacquer for wood products.

 

Hope my journey helps someone in the future as everyone here has helped me out so much.  Enjoy the before and after pics.

 

Take care and stay safe.

 

 

 

 

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Edited by ED209
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A few more glamour shots with all the accessories (jars, lids, baffling, stars, etc.).

 

I also figured out why switches come with two mounting nuts....I didn't realize it was to adjust how much of the switch sticks out of the top, DUH, so I fixed that as well and now the switches don't stick out so much and are more level and look nicer.

 

I also tried and tried to redo the manufacturer's tag on the motor housing but the lettering hardly sticks out so no matter what type of sandpaper or Scotch Brite I used, it would always take off additional material, so I left it as is and figures it shows the machine's age and battle scars so to speak.

 

The red cover over the light had A LOT of pitting so I sanded them all out and that's why it is now flat, I'll keep my eye out if there is ever one for sale or anyone has one from a donor machine.

 

Have a great weekend everyone and please stay safe.

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Edited by ED209
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  • 1 month later...

I have been working on a restoration of an L&R Master and was looking for a photo of the inside of the motor with the rotor removed but all wiring in place.  This is the help the motor shop that is rebuilding it to just get it done quicker.  The wiring inside the motor was so frayed that is basically fell apart. Note that I did run it when I got it and it worked, I am lucky I wasnt fried 🙂

Will post more when done.  

Thanks

bob

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7 hours ago, bobolink said:

I have been working on a restoration of an L&R Master and was looking for a photo of the inside of the motor with the rotor removed but all wiring in place.  This is the help the motor shop that is rebuilding it to just get it done quicker.  The wiring inside the motor was so frayed that is basically fell apart. Note that I did run it when I got it and it worked, I am lucky I wasnt fried 🙂

Will post more when done.  

Thanks

bob

I just acquired three, but have not yet investigated them. Each had a different motor. Will send pictures this week. I wa planning to do the motor restoration myself if they are not in bad shape.

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On 11/25/2021 at 1:02 AM, HectorLooi said:

Yes, that's a wire wound rheostat. Looks frightening doesn't it. The coils are only insulated from the metal body by one piece of phenolic paper!

The coils look very oxidized. You might need to sand it lightly before using the contact cleaner.

Hi, I hope people still read this old post, but where would you spray the contact cleaner, on the coils?  

Also, if my L+R mastermatic does not turn off when turned all the way anti clockwise, is this something that is related to the rheostat?  

I apologize, but I've got very little electrical knowledge.  

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6 hours ago, JimmyK said:

Hi, I hope people still read this old post, but where would you spray the contact cleaner, on the coils?  

Also, if my L+R mastermatic does not turn off when turned all the way anti clockwise, is this something that is related to the rheostat?  

I apologize, but I've got very little electrical knowledge.  

Yes, on the coils.

The circuit should open at the rheostat is turned fully CCW. If not, there is something amiss. Thinking about this further...it may be that the original rheostat was replaced with a generic one, in which case there may not be an "off" position for the wiper.

Can you show a picture of the rheostat close up at the CCW end?

BTW...I picked up three cleaning machines recently...all of them need work...lots. I was planning to reread this thread when it was time to start refurbing.

Edited by LittleWatchShop
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34 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

You'll need to buy another watchmaker's bench

You realize that if he does that it will likely come with another cleaning machine, lathe and a fully stocked cabinet of crystals... 🙂 

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11 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Lol...I have another bench in the garage already...I have run out of room!! Seriously, one of the machines will probably be bartered if I get it running. Much of my satisfaction will be in the process of refurbishing.

Well, with you in Texas and me in Oklahoma, I am prepared to barter with you once you get it running.  I'll make the drive for a good rebuilt watch cleaning machine!

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48 minutes ago, thor447 said:

Well, with you in Texas and me in Oklahoma, I am prepared to barter with you once you get it running.  I'll make the drive for a good rebuilt watch cleaning machine!

Sounds like a plan. Hopefully I can get it done this year. So many projects...so little time!

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Here is one of the three machines I acquired.  It is labeled "L&R Special" which is not something I have seen.  The motor works!  I took it apart and cleaned it up. I have ordered a rheostat and knob (old school).  It appears to me that the heater is a light bulb retrofit as opposed to a 200 ohm resistor as in my working L&R.  Anybody seen a light bulb heater in one of these?

I have all of the jars and lids as well.

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I found a 60W heater that fits an Edison socket.  I think it will work fine.  I am guessing that the tube on the left is some kind of aftermarket retrofit...does not look or feel factory.

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Here is an update on this machine.  I have cleaned it and repainted it, cleaned up the motor and oiled it.

As you can see, there is an Edison socket for the heater.  Not sure what was done before, but I found a 60W ceramic heater that might work fine.

Next up...rheostat.  I ordered a 500 ohm 50W one and was not happy with the size nor quality.  Since I had a 125 ohm 25W (rated at max current of 0.447 A), I investigated whether that would work.  I measured the motor current driving it with 50 volts (that is all I have in my lab), but noted that the current is pretty much constant under no load conditions at around 30-50 volts.  Not sure if that holds at 110 V.

In testing, I found the motor just ran too fast with 125 ohms so I needed more resistance.  I looked around the lab and could not find any suitable power resistors (hey...I am an IC designer dealing in micro watts, why do I need power resistors), so I had this crazy (and perhaps dumb) idea, just run the whole circuit in series--motor, switch, rheostat, heater.  The heater gives me some IR drop and also provides heat (not the 60W that I wanted).

Anyway, for now, I am going to leave it at that because I am going to replace the switch with one having a smaller footprint.  In the mean time, I will look for a power resistor.

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Update:

I just pulled the rheostat from the other L&R machine.  It appears to be a factory unit.  It is 750 ohms.

Edited by LittleWatchShop
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