Jump to content

It's about time I joined.


100amps

Recommended Posts

Hi all. I'm in western Canada. A year ago I found myself unceremoniously semi-retired before I really planned to be. Thanks Covid. Semi-retired = unemployed in your early 60s.

So I started watching Mark's videos, then Retro Mike's videos and got really interested in watchmaking. (I'm a tinkerer; IT systems, Electronics (tube, solid state and microcontrollers), I build and repair guitars (acoustic and electric), I brew beer, design typefaces, and probably do a few other things.) So, yeah, tinkerer.

But now a job found me, so I'm no longer living the frugal life. I can probably even afford some Mobeus oils and some Bergeon screwdrivers.

I have a few old watches from my youth that need attention. Only one is automatic, so that's where I'll focus my time. It's a 23 jewel 'Solar' brand watch from about 1970. These were sold by the large Canadian department store chain called Eatons back then. Solar was an Eatons house brand.  The watch was Swiss made and has an AS movement. It runs but barely. It needs a service. Time to get at it (after I gear up).2134500421_EatonsSolarwatches1970.thumb.jpg.2683a3e412c2d6fe845d841e94869f66.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, 100amps said:

I can probably even afford some Mobeus oils and some Bergeon screwdrivers.

Welcome here. When starting what's importante  is not to spend on overpriced tools (you can get excellent quality drivers for GBP 2.50 a piece), but that you setup your bench to work comfortably (means at least work near to they eyes) and good light, plus you invest a good deal of time to develop your skills.

 

59 minutes ago, 100amps said:

I have a few old watches from my youth that need attention.

If these watches are important to you the recommendation is to start with something else of very little value, because as a beginner the chances that the first watch(es) you gets your hands on you wil then run better than before, or run at all and be whole of in all its parts are not very great.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome and thanks for the background. You will find a lot of kindred spirits on here with those interests. Some good advice from jdm there, and as an experienced tinkerer you'll already have a good feel for your personal limits and how to develop your skills. That Solar will be up and running in no time!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 

My advice to you is as your are going to attempt to repair an auto take plenty of photos so if you become stuck when putting it back you can fall back and see how and where the parts go. We can always help you as well. Good luck. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jdm said:

(you can get excellent quality drivers for GBP 2.50 a piece.)
 


Agreed, I imagine setting up a comfortable workspace will take some trial and error. 

Yes, there are plenty of inexpensive tools and drivers available. And I know Bergeon is overpriced. I only mentioned Bergeon as an example of something I could afford now. Not that I plan to buy them, at least not yet.

I have seen a few somewhat cheaper brands get good reviews from watchmakers, but I haven't seen any good reviews of anything that cheap. I will never buy poor quality tools. If you have specific recommendations, please elaborate. Thanks.

Regarding practice movements, I have a couple scrap-ish Seiko automatics from eBay. The Solar is nice but nothing of any particular value beyond what it would sell for, which isn't a fortune. It will be a good project and a nice keeper when done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 

My advice to you is as your are going to attempt to repair an auto take plenty of photos so if you become stuck when putting it back you can fall back and see how and where the parts go. We can always help you as well. Good luck. 

Thanks! Yup, with my memory, photos or video will be mandatory. And, I have so far managed to find the service guides for each of the movements I will be working on. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum,enjoy. I suggest you follow OH,s advice with regard to watch repair and take your time, the parts are very small and can disappear into the ether never to be found again. PS your retirement time will be eaten up very quickly once you start on the horological journey. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, 100amps said:

I have seen a few somewhat cheaper brands get good reviews from watchmakers, but I haven't seen any good reviews of anything that cheap.

Have a read of our pinned topic below 

 

1 hour ago, 100amps said:

I will never buy poor quality tools

Nobody will suggest that, but about watchmaking tools "poor quality" offering ends pretty much with the $15 cased kits. Above that, either Swiss branded or China made theese will be perhaps only relatively chepa in the last case.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I just can't beleive my luck. A landeron 48 chrono in working order for $10US or £7.83. Picked it out of a box at a swap meet this morning. Seemed gummed up and not working. Messing with it proceeded to drop it on the ground, lucky it hit my foot first and seems to have survived. Only has 2 lugs, but they are on the top of the watch case. Is plated brass so not sure if new lugs can be added or not. Here is what it looked like out of the box. Then I got it home and started messing with it and changed out the crystal and went through it. Appears to need just a servicing and case work. The best for last is the dial is pretty spectacular! No water damage. Anyone hear of Dorex? Is 33.8mm not including crown and pushers.
    • With all the good and valuable reading recommended here, I strongly support your spirit of continuing to practice and getting your hands dirty. Keep going!  Just a little thing. The lift angle for ST36 should be 44 degrees. So the true amplitude is quite a bit lower. But still good.    Does this mean you've never been lubricating your watches when assembling? If not, you should really focus on practicing that. Correct oils/grease, oiling points and quantities are a big and fundamental thing to learn. 
    • The dial I bought was this one. It is for the st3620. It seems to fit the movement and the dial feet and seconds subdial seem to be in the right place.    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007923938823.html
    • What diel did you get and is it specifically for the ST36**?
    • Thanks, I'll look into this a bit further.    For now, as I'm still waiting for a new mainspring, I started assembly with the keyless works.    First, I still need to disassemble the canon pinion A scalpel slid between the parts and it came apart easily.  Through the cleaning machine again..  Then 9504 on the shaft and a bit on the base Pushed together on a hard flat surface with hand setting pushers.  The excess 9504, I'm removing with Rodico.    Oiling posts with HP1300 (wider parts, top and bottom).   Canon pinion and minute wheel need to go on at the same time. A bit fiddly. I add a tiny tiny drop of HP1300 on the elevated ring below the minute wheel (red arrow).    More posts, HP1300.  Note that the elevated ring on the plate has no purpose. The wheel goes on with the bigger side up.  Remember that the rounded side goes downwards.    Post for the rocking bar, HP1300, small amount, careful spread around the post.  Oiling the riveted wheel on the rocking bar is a bit tricky. There's not enough space for even my smallest oiler to really get in-between... so I use a scalpel. A bit messy. Rodico for some cleaning.  The three positions of the rocking bar. 1. Time setting, 2. Winding, 3. Setting the hour on the second time zone.  Cover plate on.    On now moving to the train side of the keyless works (interesting and unusual design).  9504 greasing of sliding/winding pinion and stem Positioning is straight forward  9504 also here. Distributing it by turning the stem.    Lubricating edges of rocking bar and setting lever spring with 9504. Honestly, positioning the setting lever was very fiddly. I tried various positions of the rocking bar and I'm not sure which one finally worked....   Securing setting lever with screw and then the stop operating lever. Greasing (9504) the touching points with the hacking lever, then removing excess with fresh Rodico.    Placing seat for yoke. Note that there's a top/bottom side. If it doesn't place easily, don't force it, just turn around.  Carefully spreading 9504 around the hole of the yoke (since this doesn't turn 360°, I make the effort to spread it out).  After positioning and securing the yoke, I also observe and grease the touching point between yoke and hacking lever.    That concludes the keyless works. 
×
×
  • Create New...