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A Little Fun With An Older Quartz Omega


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So I found this in a junk bin and decided to fix it up a bit. It took a little work but I found the information. The watch is a quartz Seamaster Jubilee (MD 396.0969) 1432 caliber, 6 jewels, created in 1983.

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The first thing that needed to be taken care of was figuring out what model it was, and to do this, I had to remove the caseback. Problem? Well, just looking at it tells you it’s a snap back, but there was no **BLEEP**in’ place for purchase with a case knife or any other tools I have.

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Finally, I pulled out the superglue and a Nut. Glued the nut to the caseback, let it cure overnight, and the back popped off easily. Let the caseback/nut sit in acetone overnight and the glue completely dissolves, leaving a clean back.

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After doing the necessary homework, I was able to source a gen stem and crown, in Poland of all places, and put in the order. Now it’s time to remove what’s left of the broken stem

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Since it was broken flush with the tube, there was no way to grip it

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But here I was both lucky and unlucky. The stem slid out easily enough when I could access it through the case next to the movement, but that also meant there were problems with the keyless.

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 As you can see, there is no visible stem release, so to get to the keyless, I first had to remove the electronic components

 

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And now we have the exposed keyless which will have to be disassembled to diagnose.

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Turns out, the keyless just needed to be reset. So, service and reassembled, it’s now time to replace the stem.

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Definitely too long, so I needed to cut and file it down to proper length.

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Nice snug fit in all three positions (here it’s in position 2)

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Test and reassemble electronics

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Then it was just a matter of completing the service and reassemble. I’m buffing the case now to give it a nice shine, but since I kind of wanted the aged look to be kept, I’m not doing much more. Not touching the dial, but I may relume it. All in all, I enjoyed working on this. It’s a bit of history, sentimentality, and intelligent design that lends to the understanding of why Omega is what it is today.

 

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Nice... these watches are very underated.

 

Since they're not really worth much (currently) and the prices of spares are so high they will probably end up more valuable than their mechanical brethren as a lot of them get junked!

 

Anil

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It might just be my cataracts playing up but I don't think that is the correct crown,  I would expect it to be very close to the case when pushed fully in.  What do others think?

You know, I thought it might be the wrong crown, but it's the crown listed on the Omega sheet. What gets me is how far out the tube is. It's actually pretty prominent on the watch, but even Omega shows it as being really prominent (http://www.omegawatches.com/planet-omega/heritage/vintage-watches-database?ref=15419).

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I'm confused though you can see the entirety of the case pipe when its engaged, surely that's a dust proof crown intended for a tubeless case? 

Also it's gold plate! Do not polish!

Edited by Ishima
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    • Welcome to the group Stirky. You can search for just about every subject in the craft here. Don't be afraid to ask if you can't find the answer that may have already been covered ( some ad nauseum LOL ). You don't have to buy Bergeon to get good quality. There are many decent mid-range tools available that will last you a lifetime. Cousins would be a good place to start . Cheers from across the pond ! Randy
    • I picked up a similar amount of these jewels some years ago in a watch and clock fair. Every now and then they come in handy. This week I've got a rubbed in bombe jewel in the balance cock that is cracked and needs replacing. Very handy to have a vintage assortment of these type of jewels!
    • Great diagram with the teeth and pinion count. Simple way to reduce the speed of the hour wheel by the 12:1 minute wheel. Genius and yet so simple. Always good to reinforce the principal by what you have done in your drawing. Keep doing that. I had a drawing on my wall for years showing me this which is very similar to the drawing you have done. Here's a formula to work out the beats per hour of a watch movement. The movement's BPH is dictated by the wheel teeth and pinion count and the hairspring being vibrated to the correct BPH by finding the pinning up point on the hairspring using a vibrating tool.  The reason in the formula there is X2 on the top line is because there are two pallet stones.
    • So I just wanted to say "thank you" again.  The angle is the key bit it seems and yes, it did basically just fall, or float, back into position when I got it lined up just right. I had meant to add that now that I see how it goes in, I totally see how it came out in the first place, and that whomever cloned the original movement didn't pay much attention to the fine details around the setting or how it interfaces with the balance cock or the "rings" on the regulator and/or stud carrier arms.
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