Jump to content

Which Clock Have You Got Coming In The Mail (or you are picking up)? Show Us !!!


Michael1962

Recommended Posts

Got this today for the grand total of $5 AUD. I think that this would qualify for the 404 club based on that. lol

New suspension spring is required to get it going, but I am fairly sure that based on what @oldhippy said, I may well use the movement in this as a practice test bed.

Just got to work out where to put it when I get it home.🤔

s-l1600.thumb.jpg.cf3645d4200085d35b811a182ff0c436.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see it isn't standing on a carpet which is a good thing. My advice is don't put it on a carpet, if you do make sure it isn't near were anyone walks as it can up set the balance of the case and the clock could stop. If you do so screw the case to the wall so it can't move. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a strange one that arrived this week. It is a German book style alarm clock. It was not working due to dirt / grime and the lower bushing that holds the balance had been moved too low. Yes the owner had fiddled!!! ( notice the smeared dial )

But it does have great sentimental value so I agreed to try and fix.It is now running on test. See below some pics in no particular order.

 


D61AAF13-258B-401E-BA0A-21931C38336B.thumb.jpeg.d70b109c49236effdf73803576dbd596.jpeg5289D3CD-626E-4E29-8403-DDFC2B4CE30A.thumb.jpeg.f44a688c13ccf885bb41114db335cb28.jpeg391C680B-8620-43AF-8FDF-9CD9B680D0E3.thumb.jpeg.d40eac3cf0364c40fa0f4be3e22e0b24.jpeg

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The doors act as a hinge so it can be displayed upright and one of the doors inside has a cut out for a photograph this one had a picture of the customers mother , hence the sentimental attachment. The movement is a two jewel pin lever. The mainsprings are held in open barrels without a closing lid and on a full wind it seems to run for approx 2 days. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is German made by Kienzle, it's a  Westminster chime and should run for 8 days. It was made before 1939. Nice clock and depending on the case and wood can determine on it loudness.  Look after it and it will last another 90 or so years, unlike the modern crap of today. Keep it away from central heating as it will dry out the oil and the wood.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've yet to put my GB mantle on the bench but in the meantime, this wee beauty was at an auction. I wasn't going to buy it but when it dropped to just £10 I couldn't resist! It's in quite a state but the cabinet has potential - love the window and the movement looks whole (it came with a bag of bits including the suspension spring and various bits of wood) but needs a lot of TLC. Maker appears to be HAC but I've not seen one like this before.

HAC Wall Clock (1).jpg

HAC Wall Clock (2).jpg

HAC Wall Clock (3).jpg

HAC Wall Clock (4).jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roger, doesn't look to bad going by the photos. I see it has an inside count wheel strike. It will have an 8 day duration. It has a scale at the bottom of the back, that is to help you to have the clock level on the wall. The tip of the pendulum should hang in the dead center of the scale before you start the swing of the pendulum which makes me think the pallets might be friction tight.  These movements are common.  At £10 you have a very good deal. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Roger, doesn't look to bad going by the photos. I see it has an inside count wheel strike. It will have an 8 day duration. It has a scale at the bottom of the back, that is to help you to have the clock level on the wall. The tip of the pendulum should hang in the dead center of the scale before you start the swing of the pendulum which makes me think the pallets might be friction tight.  These movements are common.  At £10 you have a very good deal. 

Thank OH, it's all part of the learning curve and I'm looking forward to stripping it down. But as Michael1962 says, just need to find somewhere to hide before the complaints come in! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes @SwissSeiko, most of us here are just hobbyist and some horological products are simply too expensive. For example, cleaning fluids. I think even you find L&R cleaning fluids expensive. But I haven't found anything that shines up parts like #111. So I just bite the bullet and fork up the $$$. Here in Singapore, a bottle of #111 is $180SGD. ($134USD) The Rinse #3 is the same price. Oils like 2ml of Moebius 9010 is around $45SGD. Imagine if you had to fill your car engine with 5 quarts of 9010! I have been using odorless kerosene to preclean my parts before putting them into the #111. The kerosene does such a fantastic job that I may use that in place of the Rinse #3. But I can do without the #111, but now its role is just a brightening agent.  So my cleaning regimen will be kerosene, #111, kerosene and IPA. I see how that works out. I might even re-distill my used IPA to save even more.
    • What works for you, is good enough for me. You and I have great interactions on here, and you've taught me some things! I guess I should approach things with the thought process that most of the users on here are probably doing this as a hobby. I find myself reading some posts and thinking, that's definitely not how I would do it. But I do this for a living, I have overhead costs, bills to pay, taxes, tooling costs ect., and to many on here, it's probably just fine to do it as is necessary to work. So I'm probably a little overzealous when it comes to finishing. You should know, we(for sure at least me) appreciate you. If someone chimes in on my posts, it's usually you, and you're a good chap!
    • Hi. Just curious. Is there an official service center for orient in your area?  I had a problem with my orient mako before. I was regulating the movement and lost focus on what I was doing. I accidentally hit the balance wheel . I had the same issue in finding parts for it so I ended up sending it to the official service center here in the Philippines.
    • I think it was HectorLooi that posted some information at the time that we were discussing what materials to use for cleaning jars in an ultrasonic machine. It was decided that steel jars transmit the cavitation bubbles better than glass or plastic, which was considered the worst as it absorbs their energy. So I've tried a few different cleaning solutions, mostly non-proprietary watch stuff. There is a thread I made last year experimenting , actually I might have tagged it onto someone else's thread,  I can't remember.  Just mirror residue and evaporation rates. 🤔 Elma pro ammoniated,  paraffin,  ligher fuel , Ipa, meths, and I think break cleaner was in there as well. Elma and paraffin have a very slow evaporation rate, probably days. Both have wetting properties and are far reaching, paraffin being very much so, if you're looking for a deep cleaning solution then paraffin soaks well and finds every nook, cranny and crevice. When I use paraffin which is usually if I hand or US pre clean then i place the parts on absorbant tissue  afterwards to soak up the excess then spin them off and use IPA or break cleaner to rinse them off after that a rotary wash with elma and ipa for rinsing . I don't use a US that much, really just if any wheels and pinion leaves are really gunked up, which is when I hang them on the little wire tree. I kind of base how i will clean by how dirty and gunked up the movement is. If it's bad the procedure will follow : soak in paraffin for a couple of hours, peg out plate and bridges and hand clean what I can with a small brush to remove the bulk. Then onto the USM, some parts that can be hung go on the tree like wheels etc,  others that can't go in a slow rotating mesh basket, all in paraffin, the USM  loosens the crap up . Then put them in a rotary basket, spin them in paraffin, spin off the excess, then in elma then 3 rinses in IPA. That's like the full valet, if the movement is really dirty. The parts that don't get that treatment are the balance complete and the pallet fork, which I really like to clean by hand.  Screws and springs I also won't put in a machine, too easily lost, these are easily cleaned by swishing them in a jar of whatever you fancy . If I get a really stubborn sticky hairspring, that will be removed for cleaning separately, brreak fluid is good for that or tetrachloroethylene. Thats one way to get rid of the mother in-law, at 85 yrs old mine is heart attack territory.....🤔....I could accidentally have an envelope with certain contents fall out of my jacket pocket onto her dining room table...accidentally....🤔
    • Yeah, that's the guy. I told him it's cheaper if I just send the pictures to my  mother-in-law directly. 😮 
×
×
  • Create New...