Jump to content

Westclox Movement Riveted


Recommended Posts

Hi, guys! This is my first post on the forum as I am new. I hope I'll be able to get some help on here as I've just started my journey into watch repairing.

 

Anyway, I'm afraid I have an idea of what the answer will be but I thought I'd ask anyway:

 

I have an old Westclox Scotty pocket watch that wasn't ticking at all. I wanted to take it apart and try to see what was wrong with it but I noticed that it's not like a normal movement. It was riveted. Is it possible to take these rivets out without doing permanent damage to the "bridge", which is more like a cover plate than anything else? Or is this going to have to be a spare parts movement? I can post pictures if you need them.

 

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

-Guss

Link to comment
Share on other sites

About the only thing you can do with these dollar watches is clean the entire movement as one piece, rinse very well, let dry very well and re lubricate.

 

Sorry, no, you will do damage if you try to remove the metal riveting leaving no metal left to re rivet. Also, the entire watch is put together as one unit. ALL the parts must be installed at one time. Hope that makes sense.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup that's the one! The  hairspring is pretty crooked. and I wanted to see if I could fix that. It started ticking after tinkering around with the gears, moving them to and fro and eventually it started. But it's sounds pretty off beat, which is why I want to try to fix the hairspring.

 

I'll try cleaning the movement as it is and lubricating it. I'll get back to you when I do that. Thanks for the help, guys!

 

-Guss

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with the posts so far the only way forward is the clean the whole movement dry thoroughly & re-lube.

This sometimes works I have used this method with cheap alarm clocks & it is surprisingly successful.

On the clocks I soak or wash with paraffin & blow dry them. But being a watch use something like lighter fuel as the hairspring must be perfectly dry and grease free after the clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought a pocket ben as my first watch and the seller told me it could not be repaired. I bought it took it home and repaired it with a set of screw drivers and eye tweezers from frys electronics. It was difficult for about an hour to put it back together but I did it and fixed the mainspring. They are very hard to put back together because there is only one plate to line up all the wheels. Good luck

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello everybody, sorry for the late reply. Thank you all so much for your help and your tips. I got lucky and found a replacement wheel bridge for cheap which actually ended up being in decent condition. I decided not to do anything about the mainspring barrel pivot since I didn't have the right tools and the barrel didn't have much endshake anyhow. I am happy to report that the watch now runs great, I have regulated it to about +-10/s day which is fine by my standards. The timegrapher result looks decent as well, although beat error is around 0.6ms which could be better I suppose. Amplitude reaches over 230 quite consistently which I'm happy with also. My lighter fluid has also been replaced by balance spring cleaning solution and now the springs don't stick to themselves anymore - who would have thought. I'm super happy with this watch, it might not be worth a whole lot but it's awesome that I could restore it and it makes me wear it with pride. To me it's a genuinely good lucking watch, it'll be my daily driver for a while. Thanks again to everybody for their input! I couldn't have done the repair without your help.   Here are some images for those interested, the bracelet isn't original but I don't really mind:    
    • Balance-hairspring system is oscillator with big Q-factor. When all in the movement is OK, the rate (frequency) is verry close to the own resonant frequency of the balance-hairspring. But in some cases, the movement (with foult) will force the resonator to work on pritty different frequency, sometimes faster, and sometimes slower. When this happens, the amplitude is always weak. So, the first thing to ask is what is the amplitude. If it is more than 180 and the hairspring doesn't touch itself and anything else, then for sure it is 'short'. If the amplitude is weak, then the first thing to do is to understand why and rectify the problem. At this time no point to check timekeeping. But, if one doubts that the hairspring is not correct, then He needs to calcullate the rate of the movement, then to 'vibrate' the balance-hairspring out of the movement and to measure the free oscillations frequency (period) with timer in order to ensure that they comply with the rate. If we have pictures, then it will be easier to tell something about that wheel.
    • So much work has gone into this! Thanks again @Jon. I will go back and check my adjustments from last weekend. A few questions for you, if you don't mind. In the reset position, I can understand the problem if the gap between the hammer and the minute counter heart is too big (slide 77) but what is bad about both hammers being in contact with the cams (slide 76)? I read somewhere that Landeron recommended grease on the runner cam, but the minute counter heart should be dry. Is that so, and why? How many tads in a ligne?
    • Could you glue two pieces together for rigidity and separate after forming? 
×
×
  • Create New...