Jump to content

Elma Watch Cleaning Machine


Recommended Posts

Its getting exciting now Geo, I have finally decided to etch, and coat the casing parts with a few layers of clear lacquer, after all the hard work of removing all the paint, and all the wire wool, and sanding work, it would be a shame to hide it all under a colour paint :)

 

I have taken photographs of the wiring, so I know how to rewire it, I did initially plan on replacing the large speed controller, but I think I will reuse it as its still working, so too is the motor, and the heater, the latter looks newer than the other components, so I would imagine the heater has been renewed at some point.

Edited by SSTEEL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I am so impressed - it's going to be like a new machine.

 

Now I wonder - would it be beneficial to coat the inside of the drying chamber with that heat resistant car paint, the one you would use on an engine for example. Probably overkill?

 

Maybe even under the heating element too - to prevent corrosion?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Starting to think maybe I should of started a separate thread for my Elma Super Elite restoration.

 

Anyway, new varnish in, and final parts now after two coats, a final coat on everything, then will polish the parts to remove any overspray.

 

15607567849_a9bc0cc8c3.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15607989078_c8c34f4425.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15793391765_635f4b2fc8.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15173955973_a11edd0493.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15607570279_414f3e1580.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15173440034_59b106f91c.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And a few shots now the clear varnish has dried :)

 

 

 

 

15609339097_738cf6d1bc.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

 

 

15770825626_e2e2b0ca0a.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15609661890_93c07e0047.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15608676819_7899de3bb1.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

The cast alloy parts, although come out ok, they are not as glossy and smooth as the aluminium case parts, so will need a few more coats tomorrow.

 

15794505745_67e232b52f.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15770829526_5d8ee02e71.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15609098308_d64dfabaef.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15175067273_d26cf5763d.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

And the base needs one more coat...

 

15794508715_542d01acde.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15609347137_884263aecf.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15794510935_b5178bbf1d.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

Edited by SSTEEL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lovely gloss finish you have there Micky, when does assembly start?

 

Thanks, all being well rewiring will start next week, quite busy with work during the week, so only have time at the weekends.

 

I love how it is coming out! Great job!

 

Thank you :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, the wiring looks like a nightmare, but luckily I was wise enough to take photos of the various wiring, and connections which should help the rewiring :)

 

Anyhow, some goodies in from Cousinsuk..

 

Complete basket, this is the alternative to the obsolete Elma item..

 

15812312405_15a73d4717.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

15627463660_2f33fce27c.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

Gasket for the Motor (Seals baskets in the jars, preventing spash-back.

 

15626912998_a1dbe93865.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

Heater switch..

 

15810428181_0655d289c5.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

 

And new bulb.  I was contemplating fitting a modern motor speed adjuster, and LED light but seeing as the old parts are still working, I serviced them, and they should be fine for some yers to come all being well..

 

15812315875_0c49552757.jpgUntitled by Micky.!, on Flickr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK - I'm jealous, I want a blue basket!!! Mine is boring grey.

 

:D

 

Top tip: If you ever need more of the little baskets (you can never have enough IMO) then I usually buy them from this guy - quarter of the price of Cousins:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Siebkapsel-z-B-fur-Elma-Reinigungsmaschinen-/141412294943?pt=Uhrmacherwerkzeug&hash=item20ecd4611f

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow! Nice and professional! Micky that's one mean machine you are putting together! I bet it will be better than new! Keep it up, great job! If I were a watch I'll be anxious to get a bath in that machine!

 

@Mark: Hi Mark, nice link, how do they compare in size to the Bergeon ones? I'd like to buy a couple myself!

Edited by bobm12
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow! Nice and professional! Micky that's one mean machine you are putting together! I bet it will be better than new! Keep it up, great job! If I were a watch I'll be anxious to get a bath in that machine!

 

@Mark: Hi Mark, nice link, how do they compare in size to the Bergeon ones? I'd like to buy a couple myself!

 

Sorry Bob, but I never purchased the Bergeon ones so I can't compare.

 

 

Nice link Mark wondering if they fit the L&R

 

Yes - I think they do fit the six compartment tray.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...