Jump to content

Elma Watch Cleaning Machine


Recommended Posts

I've finally received my much anticipated Elma Machine!

It seems to be working ok, however there are a couple of issues is like some advice on if you can help.

1. The heater is working, but seems to take a long time to get warm I wouldn't say it gets hot. I had it on for about 20 mins and the casing got warm and I could feel the air coming from it was warm. Is it meant to be switched on at the start of the cleaning process?

2. The plunger doesn't seem to work, it drops down onto the jars but I can't seem to push the plunger down. It doesn't want to move at all, am I missing something?

3. How powerful should the motor be? The soe d controller is working ok, but there doesn't seem to be much power, when I have it on full I can easily stop it with my hand, is this normal?

Thanks for any advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul,

 

First off the heater should be switched on when the basket goes into the first bath, that way it has plenty of time to heat up. On mine the temperature gets up to about 65C to 70C, maybe a little higher. When the basket is spinning in the heating chamber the movement of air keeps the effective temp down so that there is no risk of softening the shellac. I know that some people switch the heater off when the basket goes into the chamber so that it is cooling down as everything dries off.

 

The plunger should just push down with a spring detent at the up position and a collar to limit the down position. There seems to be a fair bit of rust on yours so I expect that it will need to be stripped out and cleaned/lubricated.

 

The motor isn't hugely powerful. I've never tried to actually stop it with my hand but I do know that on its slowest speed, holding the free wheeling knob at the top of the plunger (which on mine is properly free spinning) will stop it. Also, the speed will slow quite a lot when it goes into the goo. I suspect that all it needs is a strip down, de-rust, clean and oil and all should be fine.

 

Somewhere I have got the instructions. If I can find them I will put them up on here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Marc, I did suspect the plunger was probably just seized due to lack of use, the motor speed seems to have got more powerful the longer I've left it on, and it m sure the heater is fine. Think I've got myself a good little machine. I'll post some updates with the progress of refurb.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well guys, I've just joined the Elma crew. Reputed to be in excellent working condition with a couple of accessories. I haven't seen this model before, but as long as it all works I'll be happy. It'll be on it's way from Germany tomorrow, so fingers crossed it's all OK. I know you like photos, so here are couple.

post-124-0-21469300-1421953729_thumb.jpg

post-124-0-05838700-1421953810_thumb.jpg

post-124-0-83054300-1421953865_thumb.jpg

post-124-0-23023900-1421953978_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice set up Geo.

I've not seen that configuration before on an Elma with the speed control in the base, and what's the other knob for? and the extra switches? Is there control over the heater temperature or is there more to this than meets the eye, like an ultrasonic module under the cleaner jar or something. That is also a very nice set of baskets.

I look forward to an update when you receive it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice set up Geo.

I've not seen that configuration before on an Elma with the speed control in the base, and what's the other knob for? and the extra switches? Is there control over the heater temperature or is there more to this than meets the eye, like an ultrasonic module under the cleaner jar or something. That is also a very nice set of baskets.

I look forward to an update when you receive it.

Thanks Marc. I'm sure it's not ultrasonic, I think the temperature of the heater is controlled by the different combinations of the four switches.

post-124-0-19441500-1421956603_thumb.jpg

I think the small black knob controls the speed of the motor and the other is a timer. I'll confirm this when I receive it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul, as promised.

 

3161_C0383 - BA_Super_Elite_GB.pdf

 

If running it is freeing the motor up a bit then it sounds like the rust has begun to affect the motor bearings a little. I would want to get some oil into them as soon as possible. It's easy enough once you've got the motor cover off as there is plenty of access.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...