Janta / Pearl Watch Cleaning Machine

[gpraceman]

On 1/11/2023 at 9:16 PM, muddtt said:

https://www.printables.com/model/301422-rotor-for-pearl-watch-cleaning-machine

https://www.printables.com/model/301419-pearl-supreme-watch-cleaning-basket/files

 

All the files should be in those 2 links. The basket with the Tear drop holes is the same height as the original one that came with the machine. The one with the rectangles is a tiny bit shorter because I used half baskets so I didn't need the full height. 

Love the idea of 3D printed baskets.  Hadn't worked with STEP files before, though.  When I load one up in FreeCAD, I don't get a mesh bottom.  Is there some trick I missed?

[muddtt]

11 hours ago, gpraceman said:

Love the idea of 3D printed baskets.  Hadn't worked with STEP files before, though.  When I load one up in FreeCAD, I don't get a mesh bottom.  Is there some trick I missed?

 

[gpraceman]

14 hours ago, muddtt said:

 

I think I've got it.  I exported everything in the STEP file to a STL file.  Used Tinkercad (not experienced much with regular CAD software) to split the mesh area off from the model.  Then pull those two parts into Cura and do the zero top and bottom layers just for the mesh area.  It seems to slice well.  I probably made that harder than I needed to.

I haven't yet used ABS, so I need to run some tests to see what nozzle and bed temps to use before trying to print these baskets.  I picked up some Inland ABS filament from Microcenter.  I'm breaking a lot of new ground here, lol.

Another question for you.  From your photo, the tray for the mini baskets doesn't have a mesh bottom to it.  Is there a reason for that?  I would think that it should be meshed for liquid drainage and to let the drying air through.

It does look like I made it more complicated that I needed.  I tried taking the original STL file I exported from FreeCAD and sliced that in Cura with the zero top and bottom layers.  It worked just fine to get the mesh.  Messing with the top and bottom layer settings had no apparent effect on the outer wall and dividers since they are solid.

Edited March 1, 2023 by gpraceman

[muddtt]

9 hours ago, gpraceman said:

Another question for you.  From your photo, the tray for the mini baskets doesn't have a mesh bottom to it.  Is there a reason for that?  I would think that it should be meshed for liquid drainage and to let the drying air through.

The mini baskets have their own drainage. The rest of the liquid in the flat part of the basket will just spin out the side. 

ABS works well, just don't put it deep into the heating chamber or else it has the possibility of melting. But even half way in the chamber gives plenty of heat to evaporate alcohol away.

[gpraceman]

12 minutes ago, muddtt said:

The mini baskets have their own drainage. The rest of the liquid in the flat part of the basket will just spin out the side. 

ABS works well, just don't put it deep into the heating chamber or else it has the possibility of melting. But even half way in the chamber gives plenty of heat to evaporate alcohol away.

I can see that on the liquid.  I do also wonder about the air flow issue, through all of the trays, for drying.

I'll be making my own cleaning machine setup.  I do intend to have a heating chamber, but hope to keep the heat at a reasonable level, especially since the tunnel will be made out of ABS and using a PC fan to move the air.

[muddtt]

Just now, gpraceman said:

I can see that on the liquid.  I do also wonder about the air flow issue, through all of the trays, for drying.

I'll be making my own cleaning machine setup.  I do intend to have a heating chamber, but hope to keep the heat at a reasonable level, especially since the tunnel will be made out of ABS and using a PC fan to move the air.

I leave the small basket layer at the top anyways, so air flow shouldn't be an issue. It'll go thru to the small baskets. 

[gpraceman]

On 3/1/2023 at 10:28 AM, muddtt said:

I leave the small basket layer at the top anyways, so air flow shouldn't be an issue. It'll go thru to the small baskets. 

The basket setup turned out pretty well.  I meshed the bottom of the layer that holds the small parts baskets, hoping for max fluid flow through the layers.  You must be using smaller baskets, as I could only squeeze 3 into that layer.  These are for the DIY machine that I am putting together.

Edited March 8, 2023 by gpraceman

[jimzzilla]

Nice DIY set up! I like the "Lazy Susan" set up to bring the jars to the cleaning basket, are you able to lock the turn table? . The power supply with a built in timer keeps things simple. VERY NICE DESIGN, KUDOS.

Please post a video when you get it all dialed in, best regards, James.

 

Edited March 8, 2023 by jimzzilla
Add Text

[gpraceman]

4 hours ago, jimzzilla said:

Nice DIY set up! I like the "Lazy Susan" set up to bring the jars to the cleaning basket, are you able to lock the turn table? . The power supply with a built in timer keeps things simple. VERY NICE DESIGN, KUDOS.

Please post a video when you get it all dialed in, best regards, James.

 

Thanks!  I'll probably incorporate some method to lock the turntable into each of the cleaning stations.  I still also have to get the fan and heater wired up to a power supply.

I'm not too impressed with the timer switch on that motor control unit.  I'll likely just turn it to the On position and use my phone's timer to know when to move the head from station to station.

I'll take some video once I get it all configured.

Edited March 8, 2023 by gpraceman

[jimzzilla]

 

 

 

Had a guy who used my schematic incorporate this computer style - line in / fuse  combo into the Janta. nice touch. More compact!

 

 

 

Edited March 30, 2023 by jimzzilla
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[omegahunter]

After some trial and error I did the forward reverse mod an my pearl.  Big thanks to jimzzilla for his assistance.

[jimzzilla]

Congratulations omegahunter you are officially the 4TH one to pull off this mod!, looks great.

Did you add the Fuse and ON/OFF switch? you need the ON/OFF switch because if it is in the auto FOR/REV cycle and you have the motor turned OFF the cycle timer will continually run so long as it is plugged in to power, plus you can shut EVERYTHING down in case of a mishap. the hole in the base fits a fuse holder perfectly.Make sure you bend the wires UP in the back so the round knob doesn't touch. As it is It will run just fine. Good job.

[omegahunter]

9 hours ago, jimzzilla said:

Congratulations omegahunter you are officially the 4TH one to pull off this mod!, looks great.

Did you add the Fuse and ON/OFF switch? you need the ON/OFF switch because if it is in the auto FOR/REV cycle and you have the motor turned OFF the cycle timer will continually run so long as it is plugged in to power, plus you can shut EVERYTHING down in case of a mishap. the hole in the base fits a fuse holder perfectly.Make sure you bend the wires UP in the back so the round knob doesn't touch. As it is It will run just fine. Good job.

Thanks jimzilla I did add a panel mount fuse holder with a 1.5 amp fast blow in that hole.  Also spliced in a grounded 3 prong cord.  Just wanted to make sure everything works first.  The new dpdt switch is a 3 position where the center is off and I also have the machine plugged into a power strip right next to it that I shut off after use.  I might add a main power switch eventually but I think it's pretty safe.  

Regarding bending the wires up in the back to not touch the knob, can you go into a little more detail on that?  I'm not fully understanding what you mean.

Edited April 4, 2023 by omegahunter
Spelling

[jimzzilla]

The "Center OFF" DPDT Is good enough as a master ON/OFF switch, looks like your good to go!.  On mine the basket shaft knob interfered with the wires from the cycle timer when I would pivot the motor around to the back. I had to bend the wires a little bit for clearance. here's a pic.

Edited April 5, 2023 by jimzzilla
Add Text

[omegahunter]

Just now, jimzzilla said:

The "Center OFF" DPDT Is good enough as a master ON/OFF switch, looks like your good to go!.  On mine the basket shaft knob interfered with the wires from the cycle timer when I would pivot the motor around to the back. I had to bend the wires a little bit for clearance. here's a pic.

Ok gotcha thanks for the heads up.  I'll tighten and clean it up around there and keep an eye out.

[Waggy]

Anyone know where to get a spare jar that will fit these machines, I have one on the way and would like to have a spare one on standby.

[oldhippy]

Ebay is your best bet.

[Waggy]

just wondering if anyone has found any generic ones that will fit, that aren't £38.10...... this is a crazy price for something you get free with jam!

[oldhippy]

I have never had jam in a jar that big. 

[Waggy]

Looks like @gpracemanused this (?) so maybe one of these would work? Can anyone confirm?

[gpraceman]

5 minutes ago, Waggy said:

Looks like @gpracemanused this (?) so maybe one of these would work? Can anyone confirm?

For my DIY cleaning machine, I used those jars.  They are 32 ounce Wide Mouth Mason Jars.  Not sure if they will fit the Janta/Pearl machines or not.

[Waggy]

On 12/28/2022 at 10:10 PM, muddtt said:

Yes this is exactly what I did.

 

So far from the chemical compatibility charts I've been looking at it seems like ABS, HIPS, or Nylon will hold up good enough to the common cleaning agents in most solutions. But there are always so many solutions everyone has to test against their own products. 

Going to have a go at 3D printing some of these baskets etc. - seems like the consensus is that ABS seems to be about the best material to use balancing temperature, chemical compatibility, availability, printability and price would this be correct?

Edited April 25, 2023 by Waggy
Added information for clarity

[muddtt]

15 hours ago, Waggy said:

Going to have a go at 3D printing some of these baskets etc. - seems like the consensus is that ABS seems to be about the best material to use balancing temperature, chemical compatibility, availability, printability and price would this be correct?

ABS works as long as you’re careful in the heat chamber. If you’re printer is capable some kind of nylon is better. 

[Waggy]

I think I am going to go with FilaTough, see attached datasheet. I checked with the supplier and they say it should be good to work up to 130 C, but printable with my printer 240 C nozzle temp. They also looked at chemical compatibility and said it would be OK with IPA and Naptha which should cover all my cleaning fluids. Let me know if you think I have overlooked anything!

Thanks again for all the help

FilaTough-Datasheet (2).pdf

[LittleWatchShop]

2 hours ago, Waggy said:

FilaTough

Looks interesting.  Was gonna try it, but they do not offer 3mm on their website.

Let us know how it goes!