Jump to content

Pinning hairspring on balance cock


Recommended Posts

For those balance wheels where the hairspring is pinned rather than studded, what is the preferred method of reinserting the pin?

1) Reuse the pin that came out

2) Use a fresh tapered pin (long) and cut it once inserted

I find that option 1 is quite challenging, even though I have done it a couple of times.  Option 2 (which I used today) gives far more control while inserting the pin.  But when done, you have to cut it.  It is an additional challenge to find a tool in the drawer that will cut the pin but is not the size of a monkey wrench!  Electronic dykes designed to cut fine geometries (pins in ICs, etc) was made to work, but still too big IMO.

I think (with my limited experience) that the pinned cases are on cheaper movements.  Correct me if I am wrong.  Maybe antique pocket watches are pinned...dunno.  So, maybe this problem is not of the general fare.

I have a bunch of brass tapered pins that was part of my inheritance.  Today, I wanted to turn the end of one of these pins to be a little bit thinner to use in the above-stated situation.  That is a challenge on a lathe because the collet is not designed to handle a tapered win.  What I did was to install the pin on the lathe and even though it extended beyond the collet maybe 150 mm, I used a diamond sharpener and my finger to provide an abrasive action to thin the end of the pin.  This was a kludge in my view, but it worked.  There must be a better way.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I reuse the old pin if it is not damaged. I used to use my tweezers to insert it in the hole but the pin tends to swivel around and fly off.

Then I learnt a trick from Nucejoe, which works amazingly well. He taught me to put a little dab of grease on an oiler and stick the end of the pin to it, then dangle the tip of the pin over the hole and guide it in. And every since, re-pinning a hairspring is no longer daunting. 

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, HectorLooi said:

I reuse the old pin if it is not damaged. I used to use my tweezers to insert it in the hole but the pin tends to swivel around and fly off.

Then I learnt a trick from Nucejoe, which works amazingly well. He taught me to put a little dab of grease on an oiler and stick the end of the pin to it, then dangle the tip of the pin over the hole and guide it in. And every since, re-pinning a hairspring is no longer daunting. 

You might find rodico work as well or better than grease, worth a try.

I got no lathe and sharpen tips of old pins with backward strokes on a fine sandpaper, flies off couple times,but as long as you can find it one pin would do.

Regs

  • Thanks 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

For those balance wheels where the hairspring is pinned rather than studded, what is the preferred method of reinserting the pin?

Coincidentally I've posted that recently. Here how it's taught in watchmaking school:

https://watchmakingjourney.com/2014/08/16/last-week-final-project-colleting-and-studding-hairsprings/

 

  • Thanks 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, jdm said:

Coincidentally I've posted that recently. Here how it's taught in watchmaking school:

https://watchmakingjourney.com/2014/08/16/last-week-final-project-colleting-and-studding-hairsprings/

 

 

40 minutes ago, jdm said:

Coincidentally I've posted that recently. Here how it's taught in watchmaking school:

https://watchmakingjourney.com/2014/08/16/last-week-final-project-colleting-and-studding-hairsprings/

 

I have tried this task many times and failed. It is however a skill worth learning because hairsprings are difficult to source and I have many but without a collet. Thanks for sharing 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

There must be a tweezer designed with a flat end and a notch to be used for tightening the pin after insertion, or for removing. Such a tool would be easy to make.  Hmmm...I will ponder.

I use a cheap regulare pair of tweezers to tighten the pin, one prong pushing on unsharpened end of the pin , other prong on the other side of the stud. Hold your tweezers a bit unlevel so you wont obstruct the sharpened end. 

Regs

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For pinning at the collet, in school we modified a pair of #5 tweezers, blunting them somewhat and then shortening one tip; this allows the long tip to push while the short one still has some purchase on the collet, leaving the hole free. It would be hard to make a slotted tweezer that would work at that dimension, but they could be useful elsewhere nonetheless. I have pliers I have modified as such for removing and replacing pins on clock movements.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Here is the idea I am trying to convey.  Here there is no need to tilt the tweezer.

Your idea is perfect, however, 

2 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

 It would be hard to make a slotted tweezer that would work at that dimension

Nickelsilver said it better than I can. A DIY is hard.

I think there must be something suitable produced at sometime, I just haven't seen one.

Regs

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a flat nosed plier with a slot cut in it to press out and push in clock pins. But I don't use it much anymore. I simply tap pins out with a small hammer.

I found that many hairspring pins are usually situated near a pillar or post, which I can use as a fulcrum point for a small screwdriver to lever out the pin. Especially in Timexes. I don't know if they were deliberately designed this way or it just happens to be. I find that levering gives a better controlled force and the pin never flies off into oblivion. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

I have a flat nosed plier with a slot cut in it to press out and push in clock pins. But I don't use it much anymore. I simply tap pins out with a small hammer.

I found that many hairspring pins are usually situated near a pillar or post, which I can use as a fulcrum point for a small screwdriver to lever out the pin. Especially in Timexes. I don't know if they were deliberately designed this way or it just happens to be. I find that levering gives a better controlled force and the pin never flies off into oblivion. 

Do you remove the pin while the cock is still mounted?

I have not done it that way and as a result...placing the cock upside down, and first pressing on the regulator key and turning it often dislodges the regulator from the jewel "thingy" damn, I do not have all of the terms in my head.  I was thinking that if I removed the pin while mounted, I could simply slide the hairpsring out of the regulator.  This is probably covered in a book I have...I should read it before being lazy and posting....grrr.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 I put the cock with balance attached back on the mainplate, everything else removed and out of the way. you would have better access and control, then any final touches hairspring coil might need, level, centered....  and rinse.

If its not mounted on the mainplate, what is keeping it put? 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As an experiment i was thinking of not hardening it to see how it fairs. Now that i have a complete template i could knock up another in half the time if this loses its elasticity. I might play about with a few pieces today to test their bending and spring properties. This was cs 100 the supplier quoted in annealed state, it was nice to work with files so I'm taking it thats its state. What you are looking seems like it would need annealing to work it. This is why i went for this stuff that cuts out that process, it was so easy to work.
    • Showing state of hairspring on receipt, backplate & 'dished' wheel. 
    • I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?       Have you seen this video, he shows how to determine where the indents go ?  
    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
    • as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
×
×
  • Create New...