Jump to content

Your thoughts


RogerH

Recommended Posts

About 5 years ago, before I got into clock repair, we had our grandfather clock serviced (It had not worked for a few years) I was moving the clock over the weekend so thought I would have a look at the movement just see what it was like only to find, what looks to me, to be some dubious bushing! see the pictures and let me know your thoughts.

On work that I do I try and keep it as original and tidy as I can. I've not re-bushed a long case clock before but I would expect the principals to be the same. 

Grandfather Clock (2).jpg

Grandfather Clock (1).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Roger  the obvious thing is the bushings are very visible and stand proud of the countersink so oiling the bush would be almost useless as it would not be retained on the pivot. No oil well , I would have expected them to turned down to the original plate depth  and be almost invisible. What are they like on the inside.(flush with the plate?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Watchweasol, they actually look ok although there's not a lot of end shake on some of them - tbf, I didn't get too involved but one day I'll get it on the bench for a proper look. To me it just lacked a bit of care or thought. as you say, they should be pretty much invisible! One more for my to do list.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shocking repairs. First the crutch has had a blob of solder on it to hold it in place. The bushing is all wrong, wrong colour brass, no care in matching to the plate so they stick out like a sore thumb. Wrong depth so no oil wells. Seeing the pivots I would say the wrong type of bush have been used. I would love to see the condition of the plate from the inside. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We don't have a "before" picture, so perhaps not fair to judge every fault on the most recent overhaul. On less valuable clocks, and in particular where the movement is not visible, I think the aesthetics matter less. And then there is the amount paid for the work. Doing work with a fine finish takes a lot of time.

It may be simple to tidy up the existing bushes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
    • The one thing I took time over was to round and polish the curves at the bottom of the jumper arm. The slightest mark (left over from cutting of filing) acts as a stress raiser, just where you don't need it. 
    • I printed the base and it is a bit too large to fit on the base of the hand setter. The ring bumps into the column so it is unable to full seat on the central ring. I'm going to try removing some of the materal and see if I can't get it to go down.
×
×
  • Create New...