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RogerH

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About 5 years ago, before I got into clock repair, we had our grandfather clock serviced (It had not worked for a few years) I was moving the clock over the weekend so thought I would have a look at the movement just see what it was like only to find, what looks to me, to be some dubious bushing! see the pictures and let me know your thoughts.

On work that I do I try and keep it as original and tidy as I can. I've not re-bushed a long case clock before but I would expect the principals to be the same. 

Grandfather Clock (2).jpg

Grandfather Clock (1).jpg

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Hi Roger  the obvious thing is the bushings are very visible and stand proud of the countersink so oiling the bush would be almost useless as it would not be retained on the pivot. No oil well , I would have expected them to turned down to the original plate depth  and be almost invisible. What are they like on the inside.(flush with the plate?)

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Hi Watchweasol, they actually look ok although there's not a lot of end shake on some of them - tbf, I didn't get too involved but one day I'll get it on the bench for a proper look. To me it just lacked a bit of care or thought. as you say, they should be pretty much invisible! One more for my to do list.

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Shocking repairs. First the crutch has had a blob of solder on it to hold it in place. The bushing is all wrong, wrong colour brass, no care in matching to the plate so they stick out like a sore thumb. Wrong depth so no oil wells. Seeing the pivots I would say the wrong type of bush have been used. I would love to see the condition of the plate from the inside. 

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We don't have a "before" picture, so perhaps not fair to judge every fault on the most recent overhaul. On less valuable clocks, and in particular where the movement is not visible, I think the aesthetics matter less. And then there is the amount paid for the work. Doing work with a fine finish takes a lot of time.

It may be simple to tidy up the existing bushes.

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    • An update, for everyone who contributed advice, and for those who come after with a similar problem. Based on the answers received, I decided to work on the face of the hammer first. I used a square degussit stone to guarantee a vertical surface to work against, and ground the face back until it was square across 90% of the depth. I was conscious of the risk of removing too much material.* After I'd got the shape how I wanted it, I polished the surface with lapping film. To cut a long story short, it did the trick and the hammer hasn't slipped off the cam since. Of course, that wasn't the end of my problems. Have a look at this video and tell me what you think is wrong. https://youtu.be/sgAUMIPaw98 The first four attempts show (0 to 34 sec.) the chrono seconds hand jumping forwards, the next two attempts (35 to 47 sec.) seem "normal", then on the seventh attempt (48 to 54 sec.) the seconds hand jumps to 5 sec. and the minute counter jumps to 1. The rest of the video just shows repeats of these three variants. I solved it by rotating the minute counter finger on the chronograph (seconds) runner relative to the cam.  I'd be interested to hear your opinions on that. It seemed to be the right thing to do, but maybe I've introduced another problem I'm not aware of. * What is the correct relationship between the two hammers and cams, by the way? Should both hammers strike the cams exactly at the same time, or is it correct for the minute counter hammer to be a bit behind the seconds hammer? In this picture, I removed the adjusting screw at 1, and the hammers are contacting the cams simultaneously at 3 and 4. I had to turn the screw down tight to achieve this condition after stoning the seconds hammer and replacing the bridge.
    • It was easy enough to pop off. Once I had the cannon pinion hanging on the blades of the stump, I got my #2 tweezers on the gear attached to the staff and levered it down. That way none of the force was on the brass wheel itself.   I reinstalled it and the bridge, and it looks like a small but reasonable amount of end shake. It also spins easily with a blower. It stops quickly, but I think that's due to the large shoulder and about what I'd expect from this wheel.  
    • Oh, right. For some reason I was picturing a monocoque case in my head. Good looking watch!
    • Well said Ross. My reason for the thread, i like many of us dont want to lose the forum, such a well knitted group of individuals i feel. But things can happen out of anyone's control. Would be nice to have something in place just in case, if anyone has any ideas please speak up. 
    • Ok thanks Ross, I will give that a try!😁
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