Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi I’m new here but love watches, recently found my grandads rally watch, very similar to the first pictured it runs great but Crystal is cracked and scratched so would like to replace it and get wearing it. I currently have it with a watch maker friend who said he is having trouble finding a new Crystal plus the old one appears to be glued down? Believe the serial number is 27675 10578, can anyone give me a part number for Crystal and instructions on how to remove? 
 

Many thanks in advance! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the crystal was not glued at the factory and it would just lift off with a crystal wrench or lift.  First you must remove the bezel ring and I'm sure you will find debris in the underside.  

I'll look for the catalog pic of the watch so you can match a new strap.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't have the 1978 catalog so not sure about what strap it would have originally come with.  But I would suggest a vintage rally type with the three round holes. 

Here is a pic of what I believe is the same sized case bezel so suggest to order what would be a high doom type. Or just keep it as is and just be careful near water.

218907854_201021851962163_6490224471017747026_n.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, JerseyMo said:

no number, you will have to measure the case and the old crystal for dimensions.

good thing is this is a round one so will be much easier to fine a match.

Is it an acceptable practice to replace a Timex crystal with a generic one? I thought I had violated my Telephone Dial Timex when I did that. 🤣

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/23/2021 at 9:55 PM, HectorLooi said:

Is it an acceptable practice to replace a Timex crystal with a generic one? I thought I had violated my Telephone Dial Timex when I did that. 🤣

No issue with using a generic crystal if it is the only option.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...