Jump to content

Certina 13-20 Walkthrough

HSL
 Share

Recommended Posts

HSL Distinguished Member

HSL

Posted
Posted

My first week of vacation I got hurt in my back playing superman while lifting 24-wheelers with one arm. Unfortunately, I’m not 20 any more so I had to limp for a week bent like a U after the show ended.
So today I felt like I could make a strong comeback so I wanted to put me to a test, in doing that I whipped out the smallest woman’s watch from the man cave I could find and off I went. What better way to spend a sunday off.
This walkthrough will not show any disassembly since I also only had the smallest camera I could find at hand. I fast forward until the point everything been properly cleaned and I just have to magically piece everything together.
To save place at the site I compiled everything into one PDF enjoy…     Cetina 13-20 Build Walkthrough.pdf

Here we can see the movement beside its bigger brother.

FamilyPhoto.thumb.png.f4dc25848d1d8da5bae41626309ff3a9.png

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
HSL Distinguished Member

HSL

Posted
  • Author
Posted
8 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Is the big brother a Chrono grade and if not what makes it a good grade luxury watch.

They are just chronograde for so long, don't know of so many sending them back for re-certification.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, HSL said:

They are just chronograde for so long, don't know of so many sending them back for re-certification.

So what do owners want recertification for? are not all in-house Certinas Chronograde? or we like certification to verify our watch still performs up to Chronograde?  or that it is not a fake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
HSL Distinguished Member

HSL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

After you serviced a chronometer graded watch and even perhaps switched parts in it you can’t guarantee it performs after the specifications, of course the text will be there but otherwise it isn’t the same watch as in the beginning. Very few workshops have the ability to test a watch according to the COSC standard. Even fewer hobbyists.

Rolex might send some chrono-grade watches back, but no one hardly would do that with a Certina for a fraction of the price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

 Knowing you to be a Certina enthusiast and I owe Rogart63, I have been keeping an eye open for Certina for sale on domestic sites, there is a 919-1 Certina, square case , with imperfect dial paint, decent price, you pay. ha ha🤠

 I wonder if a regulare balance complete for 919-1 exists and could have been fittef in this piece. Unfortunate my tablet wont cooperate to send you a picture of it. 

Regs Joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites
HSL Distinguished Member

HSL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

22 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

you pay. ha ha🤠

 

lol, yes Rogart63 lives just around the corner in the town below mine.
I already have a couple of nice 919-1, my favourite sits in a Argonaut 285..

Link to comment
Share on other sites
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
Posted

Great and entertaining walkthrough. Thanks!

"Either the summer heat or the 26 beers made me sloppy but I revers and fast forward and by magic
I’m back in track."

Definitely the "summer heat" being the culprit here! 😆

Just out of curiosity, what would you say is the diameter of the smallest jewel in this movement? The smallest pusher in my Seitz jeweling tool set is 0.65 mm and I guess that would be way too wide if you needed to adjust end shake.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
HSL Distinguished Member

HSL

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, VWatchie said:

Just out of curiosity, what would you say is the diameter of the smallest jewel in this movement? The smallest pusher in my Seitz jeweling tool set is 0.65 mm and I guess that would be way too wide if you needed to adjust end shake.

Took a measurement and the smallest jewel on this one actually is seven hundred of a millimeter (0.7mm).
I guess one can’t have them too small of practical reasons since you need a hole for the pivot, an oil cup and some space in the sides. The tricky part is to see how to lubricate without making a mess around the whole jewel. The ones on the train is slightly larger.

So no problems adjusting the end shake...
OilCheck.thumb.png.a6b57192e7cc074ce4c541e5d7ce9cc0.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
Posted (edited)
57 minutes ago, HSL said:

So no problems adjusting the end shake...

Thanks, that's good to know (I have never serviced a ladies watch movement)! So, obviously the jewels aren't sized in proportion to the rest of the movement. I replaced a cracked pallet fork jewel (80/10) on the main plate of a Vostok 2414 yesterday, and it was pretty fiddly. A 0.8 mm diameter doesn't sound all that small but it sure feels small to handle. A 0.7 mm jewel would probably feel twice as tiny.

Oh BTW, that oiling looks absolutely perfect! Beautiful!

Edited by VWatchie
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Waggy
      Rado rotor removal

      By Waggy · Posted

      Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • doober
      Rado rotor removal

      By doober · Posted

      Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Waggy
      Rado rotor removal

      By Waggy · Posted

      Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...