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Fixing Old Coin Silver S18 Case


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Working on an 1885 Illinois Pocket Watch and it’s case back does not close properly. I think it was pulled back beyond spec at some time in its 150 years. Does anyone have any advice on how to get the lid back into place. Here are the pictures. Thanks

JD

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Some of these pocket watch cases have springs fitted inside the case, you press down on the button and they open, the spring might be also at fault, but normally it's a strain on the silver hinge or even a split. A job for a silversmith.  

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On 7/9/2021 at 8:20 AM, oldhippy said:

Some of these pocket watch cases have springs fitted inside the case, you press down on the button and they open, the spring might be also at fault, but normally it's a strain on the silver hinge or even a split. A job for a silversmith.  

Likely better to source a new case as repairing This case is beyond my abilities to repair at the moment. What I don’t want to do is get too curious and become a silver smith:). I’ll look at it a bit closer.

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I'm with clockboy. Try a little soldering! Tinker...think. fix it! You're a retired engineer. Hey if you can cut out a paper balance wheel template to test a balance staff, you can hammer and solder a watch case hinge😁👍

I used a an old spring pin once to fix a hinge. It worked. I'm no silversmith either..

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2 minutes ago, MechanicMike said:

I'm with clockboy. Try a little soldering! Tinker...think. fix it! You're a retired engineer. Hey if you can cut out a paper balance wheel template to test a balance staff, you can hammer and solder a watch case hinge😁👍

I used a an old spring pin once to fix a hinge. It worked. I'm no silversmith either..

If this was my watch, no issue. The problem is that it is not and I would want to practice a lot before attempting this repair.

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    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
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