Jump to content

New Video. Setting A Watch In Beat.

Mark
 Share

Recommended Posts

WillFly Distinguished Member

WillFly

Posted
Posted

Excellent stuff there, Mark!

 

I did a no. 3 trim to the beard recently and brought it right down to whiskers - so you're now ahead of me in the beard length. Still, it's spring, and I expect a full growth from both of us in a few days more...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just clipped it all away. I am a strange fellow - if I close shave I end up itching all day, if I let it grow too long I end up itching. I usually clip with no attachment.

 

Will - you must feel bald at the moment!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
matabog Super WRT Addict

matabog

Posted
Posted

Great vid!

Not to be ungreatfull, don't get me wrong, I understand the long hours spent behind making these videos, but I am waiting for more advanced stuff! More like those two hairspring works you've done :)

 

For example: adjusting in different positions, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins,  static and dynamic poising, pivots streightening and polishing, pallet stones repair and adjustement  :)

 

Again, thank you very much for your work spent doing these videos!

Bogdan

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Great vid!

Not to be ungreatfull, don't get me wrong, I understand the long hours spent behind making these videos, but I am waiting for more advanced stuff! More like those two hairspring works you've done :)

 

For example: adjusting in different positions, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins,  static and dynamic poising, pivots streightening and polishing, pallet stones repair and adjustement   :)

 

Again, thank you very much for your work spent doing these videos!

Bogdan

 

:) I understand - I have had a huge amount of requests for regulating and timing machine content.

So it is good to create a mixture of basic and advanced content but at the moment I am doing a series on the basics and will work up from there because it is laying foundations for some of the examples you would like to see.

 

I really appreciate the feedback Bogdan :)

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

"Normal haircut"... :D

 

Twice a year for me - and sometimes three if the weather's exceptionally warm.

Mine is a race between going bald or silver, the baldness has been accelerated after tackling hairsprings & crawling around the floor looking for lost parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Rob WRT Addict

Rob

Posted
Posted

Good video as usual, and nice animations. :)

 

What I miss though is an explanation of why it's good to be in beat. It's not obvious to me why being out of beat would necessarily be a bad thing. The balance wheel still oscillates with the same frequency.

 

I have read that being out of beat affects the rate in different positions and that makes some sense. But I've also heard that it will make it harder for the balance wheel to start up and that it decreases the amplitude by wasting power… 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
cdjswiss WRT Addict

cdjswiss

Posted
Posted

Splitting hairs, I have a remark on this excellent new video.

My attempts at setting beat with the stud movement puts the watch out of time. So I readjust the curb pin setting using the timing regulator and this invariably results in a new, but smaller, beat error. After some iterations I can usually arrive at a watch in beat to within a few tenths of a ms and timing good to second/day. But it always needs three or more iterations. Is this normal?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

As I understand it a low beat error is important when the watch mainspring winds down, but in a auto watch it is not such a issue.

I could be wrong but also if out of beat in certain positions the out of beat would become an issue.

I don,t understand how by altering the curb pins I can change the beat or am I missing something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Two potential problems if a watch is not in beat: Beat error can possibly cause positional error in vertical positions. The watch may require agitation for it to start because the impulse jewel is not in the correct position. A watch wildly out of beat may be difficult to start or may stop intermittently. You may have amplitude problems.

But yes, you are correct. The overall time it takes for an oscillation should remain constant.

A goal would be to keep beat error to under .5 milliseconds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • Jon
      Main spring

      By Jon · Posted

      I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
    • Malocchio
      What tools does ebay have to offer this week.

      By Malocchio · Posted

      I recently bought this but not on ebay. I figured if I want something Japanese I better check Japanese auction sites since these don't seem to pop up on ebay. I paid 83 € plus shipping & taxes. I think it was pretty reasonable for a complete set in good condition.
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Did you take the friction pinion off the large driving wheel and grease it? Although, now that I think about it, that shouldn't have any effect on the free running of the train if the friction pinion isn't interacting withe minute wheel/setting wheel...
    • DDean
      Incabloc Lyre Spring & Low Earth Orbit

      By DDean · Posted

      I did in fact use Rodico to get the spring into general position and "hold" it there while I used a fine oiler to make subtle positional adjustments.
×
×
  • Create New...