Jump to content

New Video. Setting A Watch In Beat.


Recommended Posts

Excellent stuff there, Mark!

 

I did a no. 3 trim to the beard recently and brought it right down to whiskers - so you're now ahead of me in the beard length. Still, it's spring, and I expect a full growth from both of us in a few days more...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just clipped it all away. I am a strange fellow - if I close shave I end up itching all day, if I let it grow too long I end up itching. I usually clip with no attachment.

 

Will - you must feel bald at the moment!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great vid!

Not to be ungreatfull, don't get me wrong, I understand the long hours spent behind making these videos, but I am waiting for more advanced stuff! More like those two hairspring works you've done :)

 

For example: adjusting in different positions, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins,  static and dynamic poising, pivots streightening and polishing, pallet stones repair and adjustement  :)

 

Again, thank you very much for your work spent doing these videos!

Bogdan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great vid!

Not to be ungreatfull, don't get me wrong, I understand the long hours spent behind making these videos, but I am waiting for more advanced stuff! More like those two hairspring works you've done :)

 

For example: adjusting in different positions, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins,  static and dynamic poising, pivots streightening and polishing, pallet stones repair and adjustement   :)

 

Again, thank you very much for your work spent doing these videos!

Bogdan

 

:) I understand - I have had a huge amount of requests for regulating and timing machine content.

So it is good to create a mixture of basic and advanced content but at the moment I am doing a series on the basics and will work up from there because it is laying foundations for some of the examples you would like to see.

 

I really appreciate the feedback Bogdan :)

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Normal haircut"... :D

 

Twice a year for me - and sometimes three if the weather's exceptionally warm.

Mine is a race between going bald or silver, the baldness has been accelerated after tackling hairsprings & crawling around the floor looking for lost parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good video as usual, and nice animations. :)

 

What I miss though is an explanation of why it's good to be in beat. It's not obvious to me why being out of beat would necessarily be a bad thing. The balance wheel still oscillates with the same frequency.

 

I have read that being out of beat affects the rate in different positions and that makes some sense. But I've also heard that it will make it harder for the balance wheel to start up and that it decreases the amplitude by wasting power… 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Splitting hairs, I have a remark on this excellent new video.

My attempts at setting beat with the stud movement puts the watch out of time. So I readjust the curb pin setting using the timing regulator and this invariably results in a new, but smaller, beat error. After some iterations I can usually arrive at a watch in beat to within a few tenths of a ms and timing good to second/day. But it always needs three or more iterations. Is this normal?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As I understand it a low beat error is important when the watch mainspring winds down, but in a auto watch it is not such a issue.

I could be wrong but also if out of beat in certain positions the out of beat would become an issue.

I don,t understand how by altering the curb pins I can change the beat or am I missing something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Two potential problems if a watch is not in beat: Beat error can possibly cause positional error in vertical positions. The watch may require agitation for it to start because the impulse jewel is not in the correct position. A watch wildly out of beat may be difficult to start or may stop intermittently. You may have amplitude problems.

But yes, you are correct. The overall time it takes for an oscillation should remain constant.

A goal would be to keep beat error to under .5 milliseconds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I think if you want to play Billy big b.ollocks then you have to have something up your sleeve, anyone that knows how to fight, plays dirty. Lets face it a lot of folk that voted for Brexit just rolled uk their sleeves to say up yours EU hoping for good changes. We have idiots for leaders and probably none of them clever enough to clean the shitty stick they were given. I didnt vote, what will be will be.
    • I voted leave too, my reasoning was the the EU is undemocratic, no elected officials. I don't regret it but I  am sad that both sides acted like petulant toddlers.  Shameful.  I'm not on other forums but if I was and left this site, would you shun me? Of course not, we aren't petulant toddlers.  
    • This is a type of tool that may be suitable to remove the bezel - though note that I'm pretty sure the watch should be face down - not face up, as in some of the photos of these tools on amazon & ebay! If you try one one of those, put the movement screws back in first to avoid accidents. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Removal-Professional-Remover-Watchmaker-Diameter/dp/B09XCH4QVN?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A296NCMMFVXSDN&th=1  
    • Hi, I’m constantly asking my wife to help me with removing the stem in order to complete casing. To expand, this is not a challenge for me when the setting lever is secured by a screw (older calibers). However when the setting lever is attached to a spring loaded setting lever axel, like on more modern calibers, I simply don’t see how to apply enough pressure on the button to get the stem out short of putting the movement face down with the dial and hands attached, which I’m loath to do in order to avoid damaging the dial/hands? what technique should I be using? thanks  
    • Many thanks for your advice (being borne in mind at present) & offer Dell. When I was given the clock the plastic anchor was loose on the arbour (it had split at the 'hole') &, after repairing this, I have been trying to determine whether the spindle (pin) should be perpendicular when the pallet is sitting on a flat surface; or whether, when installed, its L-R extremes (or alternatively its tick & tock points) should lie at equal angles from the vertical when moved with spring absent. I can get the clock to run but in every such configuration the top block has to be turned anti-clockwise (from above) by quite a bit in order to be 'in beat' & it always runs fast (despite the pendulum being set to as slow as possible). This makes me wonder if there is any particular feature of/fault in a torsion spring clock which determines which turn direction (if any) is necessary to get it 'in beat'; & whether there would be a different set of settings that would get it running nearer to time at somewhere around the mid timing/inertia position which would then allow tweaking of the fast/slow setting.
×
×
  • Create New...