I've made up my mind to build a watch around the the ETA 2804-2 (28.800/Manual wind/Date complication). It's diameter is identical to the ETA 2824-2 (25.60 mm), but the height of the 2804-2 is just 3.35 mm, that is 1.25 mm less than the 2824-2. I've been looking around but it seems very difficult (impossible?) to find watch cases designed for the ETA 2804-2, but there are plenty of cases to choose from for the 2824-2. So, I have two questions...
1. Where can I find watch cases designed for the ETA 2804-2, and if that isn't possible...?
2. Would a case designed for the 2824-2 work with the 2804-2? My guess is that it would, but that the case back would be unnecessarily thick?
I'm working towards a project of making watches from scratch, and as part of that I'm considering buying a milling machine. Given the precision levels needed for both milling and boring, I'm considering a rather costly option, the Wabeco F1200. It has a 0.01mm tolerance for milling and 0.03mm for boring.
My question: would you have an opinion or experience with the suitability of such a mill? Or would you have alternative suggestions for me?
Have 3 watches with Ronda 915, 5 jewel. Fresh 371 Energizer batteries. Two have orange isolators, one does not. Can't get any of the three to work!!! Installing plus up with the crown out.
What is the easiest way to check the movement? Use Renata batteries instead?
Have changed many batteries over the years but this has me stumped.
I own a Victorinox which has a lose hand, it got deatached somehow, I think because of a small fall.
Foyself a tool for opening the back of the case (I am really noob at this) but that is as far as I could go since I dont see any of the deataching levers shown in most of the tutorials on the internet.
I attached images of the watch so you can point me which screw/lever/pin/whatever should be moved in order to remove the crown. If it is something very critical that could damage the clock I will take it to a specialized place, but I really would like to do it myself.
Thanks, and greetings from Uruguay
If you suspect the autowinder, I just remove the module, normally the two screws that tighten the module to the gear bridhe are darker in color. Yes long screws can be the cause. Also check the ratchet wheel reduction wheel, its arbor drops in jewel hole in barrel bridge.
The movement is vitually a manual wind once the winder module is removed.
We can monitor the patern it stops,which can tell where to look for the faulf.
Anytime were working with American pocket watches it's nice to have the serial number especially when looking for parts. Then because this is not your normal 12 size it's extra thin looks like you're right it's a friction jewel setting. So image extracted from a listing so we get the diameter and the thickness. Then the other minor problem with Illinois all the different part numbers to make for a confusing mess.
Greetings all. I just serviced a Girard-Perregaux automatic movement. It seems to run fine, but ends up stopping for reasons unknown. It seems like it may have something to do with the center-wheel contacting the top of the barrel. If there is clearance, it is by very little. It seems to stop most often once the automatic mechanism is replaced. I'm wondering if by tightening the automatic mechanism down to the train-bridge, it's dropping that center-wheel to barrel clearance to nothing, thereby stopping the movement.
Does anyone have experience with this ETA 1256 auto movement that can offer any ideas as to what the issues might be? What do you think would cause the barrel to be so close to the underneath of the center-wheel? Any help is appreciated. Many thanks in advance. Cheers.