I've made up my mind to build a watch around the the ETA 2804-2 (28.800/Manual wind/Date complication). It's diameter is identical to the ETA 2824-2 (25.60 mm), but the height of the 2804-2 is just 3.35 mm, that is 1.25 mm less than the 2824-2. I've been looking around but it seems very difficult (impossible?) to find watch cases designed for the ETA 2804-2, but there are plenty of cases to choose from for the 2824-2. So, I have two questions...
1. Where can I find watch cases designed for the ETA 2804-2, and if that isn't possible...?
2. Would a case designed for the 2824-2 work with the 2804-2? My guess is that it would, but that the case back would be unnecessarily thick?
I'm working towards a project of making watches from scratch, and as part of that I'm considering buying a milling machine. Given the precision levels needed for both milling and boring, I'm considering a rather costly option, the Wabeco F1200. It has a 0.01mm tolerance for milling and 0.03mm for boring.
My question: would you have an opinion or experience with the suitability of such a mill? Or would you have alternative suggestions for me?
Have 3 watches with Ronda 915, 5 jewel. Fresh 371 Energizer batteries. Two have orange isolators, one does not. Can't get any of the three to work!!! Installing plus up with the crown out.
What is the easiest way to check the movement? Use Renata batteries instead?
Have changed many batteries over the years but this has me stumped.
I own a Victorinox which has a lose hand, it got deatached somehow, I think because of a small fall.
Foyself a tool for opening the back of the case (I am really noob at this) but that is as far as I could go since I dont see any of the deataching levers shown in most of the tutorials on the internet.
I attached images of the watch so you can point me which screw/lever/pin/whatever should be moved in order to remove the crown. If it is something very critical that could damage the clock I will take it to a specialized place, but I really would like to do it myself.
Thanks, and greetings from Uruguay
Thanks for the responses. It's nice to see a consensus as it gives me confidence with what to do next. I noted also the dirty read on the timegrapher as @clockboy pointed out and will see if I can clean that up a bit.
Apologies for not responding earlier- my wife's Mini Cooper blew up and the repair has kept me quite busy and away from the desk!
Well done wls1971, it was made in Japan. I did not repair it as it was easier to make the inside of the case fit a new German Regular movement that is of a bit better quality. Also added 2 new bellows as the originals had high pitch cuckoo and sounded terrible.
Yes, yes in order to remove the top screw I had to release that level what you use to stop the alarm and the stop button too. Actually the top screw goes trough the outer case and the inside frame. The inside frame was also bent, so it was actually enough to put the top screw in and tighten it to stop the clock. I straightened up the bent and now the top screw is not an issue anymore. Hopefully I can sort this out, thanks for both of your comments.