Jump to content

Click Spring for Sandoz Clock


GreyProtocol

Recommended Posts

I've been working on an 8-day clock. The dial is decently large, but the actual movement is similar to an oversized pocket watch. The only markings I've been able to find are "Sandoz" on the dial, and on the barrel bridge:

An "M" with emphasized serifs

"15 Fifteen Jewels", "3 Three Adjustments", and "Made in Switzerland"

The serial number 403250

While working on it, the click spring went *ping* into oblivion, and despite my best efforts and strongest magnets, I haven't been able to find it again. At this point, I'm looking to replace it. However, just going off the above markings, I haven't been able to find any information about the movement classification or caliber in order to find a proper replacement. Since it's a click spring, I'm not too concerned about getting an exact replacement just so long as it applies pressure to the click. The original was just a simple spring consisting of a single U-bend and fit into a channel 8.4mm long, 2.9mm wide, and 0.54mm deep.

How would I go about finding more information on this movement in order to get a proper spring? Or just search for springs that have the right shape and dimensions?

PXL_20210622_034405221.PORTRAIT (2).jpg

PXL_20210622_034155932 (3).jpg

PXL_20210622_035022479.jpg

PXL_20210622_035115398.jpg

PXL_20210622_035122313.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi and welcome to the forum. You're right about the movement as Sandoz mainly deal in watches although Sandoz Swiss is supposed to be the better quality. getting spares however could be tricky unless someone else knows of a specific place your best bet will be the likes of Ebay or auctions to try and find something similar and adjust it to fit. It may be possible to make one from scratch but without the original as a template that could be a bit hit and miss.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a picture of assorted shapes of springs to help in what you need I have marked it with a red arrow. This should give you an idea of what you are looking for. If you make one make sure it is of a good strength and be careful of the height you don’t want it rubbing the underside of the ratchet wheel.    

s-l1600.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Here is a picture of assorted shapes of springs to help in what you need I have marked it with a red arrow. This should give you an idea of what you are looking for. If you make one make sure it is of a good strength and be careful of the height you don’t want it rubbing the underside of the ratchet wheel.    

s-l1600.jpg

Would you recommend, then, just buying an assortment of springs and picking one that looked best?

My primary concern is over size, since the movement is something between a clock and a watch. I don't want to purchase a spring that looks right but turns out to be intended for a watch and far too small.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This photo is of different springs for watches. I don't think suppliers keep assortments for the type of clock you have. I would advise you make yours following the shape I have pointed out. You could try ebay old stock and assortments of old stock are always on there. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have heard of people making click springs from guitar strings, but that was for watches not clocks, but any suitable sprung material would do. Do a search on 'spring steel', or look up any local model engineering supplies.

Besides stainless steel you can also buy phosphor bronze wire for winding your own springs which would work also.

You would need to work out what diameter (gauge) would be the best, but here is a place that sells stainless steel and phosphor bronze spring wire.

I don't know where you are but this company is in the UK and I've bought from them many times and they post out to me in Australia.

https://www.ajreeves.com/phosphor-bronze-spring-wire.html

 

The 27SWG stainless steel is about 0.42mm, you would need to do some carefull measurement to see if this is fine enough.

If you need to go finer look at guitar strings, they go down to 0.23mm for the super extra light 'E' string

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
    • Hi! I am in the process of restoring a rado captain cook mkII. I want to remove the rotor, but I am not sure how to and need some help. As you can hopefully see on the photo there are 2 screws. The left one has two positions, the right one looks like a regular screw. I have tried turning the right one, but it does not give even after using more force than I would expect. Anyone know the function of the left screw with the two positions and how to remove the rotor? Thanks!!
    • Welcome to the group Stirky. You can search for just about every subject in the craft here. Don't be afraid to ask if you can't find the answer that may have already been covered ( some ad nauseum LOL ). You don't have to buy Bergeon to get good quality. There are many decent mid-range tools available that will last you a lifetime. Cousins would be a good place to start . Cheers from across the pond ! Randy
×
×
  • Create New...