Jump to content

Hello from Maryland!


Recommended Posts

Hello all.  My name is John and I live in Maryland, not too far outside Baltimore.  My obsession with this hobby started about three years ago, after watching Mark's video on how to make your own watch from parts.  I built the watch shown in the picture below, which is powered by a Sellita SW210 and is a great little timekeeper.  Despite my difficulty with fitting the seconds hand, I was bitten by the bug and then built a handful of watches for friends and family of varying designs.  I've recently signed up for Mark's online watch repair course and have just completed level two, servicing a Seagull ST36 in the process.

I'm looking forward to getting to know the community here!

IMG_2419 (1).png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/23/2021 at 8:22 AM, Michael1962 said:

Have you got any photos of the other watches that you built?

The second watch I built is a pilot's watch based on a Seagull ST36.  The lume on this dial is fantastic.

IMG_2494.thumb.JPG.5428822857cc099b5dfa7a5070334a2f.JPG

IMG_2483.thumb.JPG.88e04ea9ba5a59a7449b46a1486a54dc.JPG

The next watch I built is based on a skeletonized ST36.  This one was a real challenge but came out great.  The case is the smallest I've seen for a 6497 at 41mm.  It doesn't use a movement ring.  Instead, the movement is held in place by careful adjustment of the height of the case clamp screws, so that they just touch the caseback when it is screwed down.  I still have nightmares about this case.  I ended up 3D printing a spacer ring to fit between the caseback and those screws.

Guess how many times the winding pinion fell out when I removed the stem with the watch upside down on my casing cushion?  🙂

IMG_2516.thumb.JPG.9b73ca03d70d05a13c9f936e211b8d5f.JPG

IMG_2517.thumb.JPG.ca248ed96a4f42c40de24d06e003c52f.JPG

IMG_2549.thumb.JPG.4003b3f799004cbf32a871f6b91d58c0.JPG

I then built a few other watches using Otto Frei's 36mm 2824 case.  Here's one with an open heart dial that uses a reclaimed Hamilton movement:

IMG_3154.thumb.JPG.5f68c5d3f78fab31027522f7c3ec0c21.JPG

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Somewhere in the back of my mind i thought you had the jewelled seitz pivot gauge, i was just asking if you had this scaled pin gauge as well. I might have just made up that thought  H. 😅
    • Yes, but the idea was that the OP wanted to be able to measure the diameter of the jewel holes in his collection of unordered jewels. Also, depending on the type of micrometre used one has to be careful not to dent the very small pivots (< 0.12mm) when pinching them in the micrometre. In my experience, the JKA Feintaster is safe to use also when measuring very small pivots. I don't understand your question, which I think was for me, no?
    • I didn't think there were any gauges under 0.1  .  I do like the old art deco tanks which are small sizes. My staff stash amounts to around half a mil. So i think I probably have that base covered. This 0.1mm set seems to be the most expensive, larger 100 piece set are about half the price. For around a 100 quid you can have sizes from 0.1 up to 4mm. Bugs me that they charge shipping for each seperate item so no combined shipping fee available.  Do you have the variable pin gauge as well ?
    • Yes, I understand that indeed.   Which is exactly what I am lacking, as I said. That's why the ring diameter matters to me.   That matches my anecdotal observation indeed. It could be the material or the modern backward curve that provides more power.   This is an interesting topic!  While these old oils were maybe thinner, their friction-reducing effect may still actually be lower than modern (even thicker oils), no? I man, some old, thin, organic oil may be less effective in reducing friction than a modern, thick HP1300 or so. What do you think?
    • Here are a couple of pictures of the tool that I mentioned in my first reply: Got the picture from here: https://klocksnack.se/threads/hobby-hörna-hemma-verktyg-tips-och-trix.163821/#post-4291582
×
×
  • Create New...