Jump to content
  • 0

I dropped an ETA 2472 and it stopped


Question

Hi All

I'm a beginner having "serviced" or restored about a dozen movements without killing them.  I dropped a newly acquired watch containing an ETA 2472 and it stopped.  Before I send it off to a real watchmaker, is there any checks I can do to determine what broke?  There's nothing obvious with the top incabloc.  The hands set.

Thank you

Charlie

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0
50 minutes ago, Lc130 said:

Hi All

I'm a beginner having "serviced" or restored about a dozen movements without killing them.  I dropped a newly acquired watch containing an ETA 2472 and it stopped.  Before I send it off to a real watchmaker, is there any checks I can do to determine what broke?  There's nothing obvious with the top incabloc.  The hands set.

Thank you

Charlie

I the balance wobbly? Broken pivot?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

If you give the balance a gentle nudge or a puff of air, does it oscillate normally, or jam up on something? Is the hairspring tangled?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
2 hours ago, Klassiker said:

If you give the balance a gentle nudge or a puff of air, does it oscillate normally, or jam up on something? Is the hairspring tangled?

The hairspring is partially blocked from view by the autowinder but looks to be ok.  The balance swings with a puff in one direction but not the other.  Could it be the position for the impulse jewel and fork?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
5 hours ago, Lc130 said:

 The balance swings with a puff in one direction but not the other.  Could it be the position for the impulse jewel and fork?

Yes it can;  perhaps impulse jewel can't enter the fork horn, if the shock has  knocked a pallet jewel out of alighnment or bent a pivot.

Remove the two black screws then the automatic device, loosen the cock screw by couple turns, raise the bridge just enough to pass the impulse jewel over the fork so to get impulse jewel inside the horn, tighten cock screw.

It will run, however , might get stuck again if pallet jewels have got misaligned or a pivot has got bent.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
9 hours ago, Lc130 said:

Could it be the position for the impulse jewel and fork?

Hi Charlie, you underestimate yourself. You are not really a beginner any more. You have identified where the problem is. Without removing the balance assembly and inspecting the pallet fork and the escape wheel, you can't diagnose the exact fault. Your watchmaker will be able to do the rest. You can try what Joe suggests, and it might run well after, If you are very lucky. After that, you need to decide between a DIY disassembly and parts inspection, or an immediate trip to a professional.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Nucejoe was correct.  It appears that the fork got displaced on the other side of the impulse jewel.  Amazingly nothing broke and it's now working.  Thanks to everyone for the help!

Charlie

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Hi Charlie,   

  You did fix it yourself, didn't you?     Klassiker is right.

I think you decided to start all your posts this way, to spare us all reading comments that may sound discouraging.

Good luck pal.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites


  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Welcome to WRT  forum.  
    • Thanks for the reply! I live in the US and I do have most of the stuff I need. I do have a full set of Moebius greases and oils as well. Looking at the 1900 for a while now, so I'll probably pick that up. As I said, I have a pretty good set of tools including hand levers, Presto Tools, Bergeon Screwdrivers, Dumont tweezers, loupes and other magnifiers, movement bed, Bergeon hand oilers and pots, Bergeon movement-holder, pith and peg wood, Rodico, etc, etc, etc. I have a couple of Seagull 6498s and a Seagul 2824-2 to practice destroying....er.....assembling and reassembling.
    • The intro is like something from a tv show but the instructional parts seem to be from a live training course. I'm 5 videos in and hooked, will be watching them all, great find!
    • you left out an important detail by the way? A lot of this depends upon where you live.. One of the recommendations I like to give beginners is purchasing a brand-new 6497  Chinese clone  as the Swiss originals too expensive in the clone works just fine.. Then you definitely want a timegrapher iin the beginning there very cheap now compared to what they once cost either the Chinese 1000 or the 1900 are both excellent machines. So if you have a new timing machine  and a new watch  you can llearn how to properly time things on the machine. You can look at your brand-new watch see how it functions. Then you can taken apart  and put it back together  and put it back on the timing machine and see if it still functions. Timing machines are more than just timing their diagnostic devices. There's so many questions newbies ask where if they just a timing machine it would help narrow the problem down considerably. Does not like you can hold the watch to your four head and absorb the knowledge of its problems you need  ways of doing diagnostics. Then unfortunately magnetized watches don't run well  they will have issues. aa unfortunate problem with watch repair is that is a heck of a lot of specialty tools that sooner or later would be really nice to have.. As long a basic tools you have to have.  Then when you get in the lubrication  is some of those are nice to have an they're not exactly cheap  so this isn't exactly a really cheap hobby.  
    • The latest 404 club member.  A very new looking, but slightly broken "Sekonda Classique" branded skeletonized Chinese standard movement full hunter pocket watch. Listed as not working, spares or repair, it cost 99p plus shipping. The click spring was broken and the original movement holder is missing. The donors I have, all had had various different arrangement of barrel bridge and click spring, and none matched, so I swapped the whole lot. Barrel with mainspring, barrel bridge and click. The mechanisms are very easy to work on, and in general parts from one variant of the "Standard" movement have a good chance of fitting in another, but obviously not always. It is now running nicely, and looks quite attractive, although the over all build quality is not spectacular.
×
×
  • Create New...