More clock questions as I am still getting used to what certain brands cost

[clockboy]

I used to go to a local auction house and would purchase re-furbish and re- sell at a profit. However there were some ringers/friends of either the seller or auctioneer who started to push up the prices without any intention of buying. In the end stupid prices were being paid for non running clocks that or needed repairs. I know longer go 

[oldhippy]

I'm not surprised. Another racket I know of is a group of antique dealers get together, if an item doesn't sell in one shop the other will try and sell it in another shop with a totally different price tag, they take a percentage of the sale, so it is in their interest to put a higher price tag on the item.  

I used to watch the old T V series Lovejoy because a lot of what happened in that is true.  

[HectorLooi]

Do you think that is happening on ebay too?

[clockboy]

6 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Do you think that is happening on ebay too?

Absolutely, I knew someone who sold on eBay and would get friends/ colleges to but in bids the get an item moving or just to boast the price. I have put in good bids but been outbid then the very next week the item a has been re- listed and given a “everyone deserves a second chance” from eBay.

[watchweasol]

I think its more common than we realise . Like clockboy I have seen the same thing. Its a case of if you are bidding fix your price on the article and stick to it, I think we have all been around long enough to be careful.

[oldhippy]

Apart from a few of the well-known auction houses It goes on more than you think. I have only bought a few things on ebay I can't say I have witnessed any funny business goings on. 

[HectorLooi]

I've seen some very nice clocks on ebay being auctioned by charity organizations. But due to some strange law that we have in Singapore that forbids us from remitting money to overseas charities, I can't buy any of them. 

[Michael1962]

I search occasionally for clocks on ebay Australia, but invariably end up looking at OS clocks as there does not seem to be many here.

This happens even if I tell ebay to only show me items from Australia. Or a certain distance from my postcode.

I am not certain that I could trust everything getting here in one piece if I purchased a 400 day clock OS for example.

[HSL]

19 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Do you think that is happening on ebay too?

I very seldom buy something on auction from Ebay nowadays, just fixed price or after looking at the bidding history.
I think what is used at that site is something called action snipers, they can be set to bid a certain amount on an object and by that raise the price. Unfortunately, this is accepted by Ebay.

This gives the seller to put out a “low price” to attract buyers. I always use the auto bid with a set maximum so I don’t get exited and raise the bid.

Here is link to the service and I also put out an example of how to spot a seller using this kind of service.

https://www.bidnapper.com/index.php?refuser=ggle11d-ebay%20snipe%20tool&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsoae1da58QIVAqmyCh1nYwO-EAAYASAAEgIGDPD_BwE

[clockboy]

I bid the same as HSL I decide how much I am willing to and that’s it. Some seem to get carried away bidding for vintage tools and pay more than they can be purchased new. For pricey items I look at the sellers history. The snipping software should be banned by eBay IMO.

[jdm]

55 minutes ago, clockboy said:

Some seem to get carried away bidding for vintage tools and pay more than they can be purchased new.

They are the ones that do not use sniping. As long it's an open auction nobody can do anything to stop the from becoming excited and paying stupid prices. In the world of "serious auctioning", e.g. public tenders or forced liquidations, the only price made public is the winning, after the auction ends. That's not how Ebay works, of course.

Quote

The snipping software should be banned by eBay IMO.

Think about it this way, it's the only thing that protects the your maximum offer from becoming visible at some point and be outbid, and to make it exactly at the best (last possible)  time without you having to take care of it, so it's actually extremely useful. All serious buyers use it.

[Michael1962]

Questions again.

How does one determine rarity? A lot of the ads over here say 'Very Rare'. Is there somewhere that can be looked up on the internet which would enable a prospective purchaser to ascertain rarity value?

I saw a Kundo hexagonal cased 400 day clock for $150. Got some other photos and it looks ok. I am not going to buy it however. I have enough on my plate at the moment with the clocks that I have and a right arm that it very limited in what it can do since surgery on Friday 25th.

It is just that it is advertised as 'Very Rare' and I am just not sure if it is?

[oldhippy]

Down to experience. I can tell you without seeing that Kundo it isn't rear. It might have a limited number but no not rear. If you see something and your not sure post it here and I can advise you. 

[Michael1962]

Thanks @oldhippy. Will do. Much appreciated.

This is the Kundo.

Edited June 29, 2021 by Michael1962

[HectorLooi]

I  don't use sniping software. I sometimes wake up in the middle of the night to get a last 10 second bid in. 

I don't understand some auctions where the seller sets a low price and a 7 day bidding period. And there are bidders bidding up the price throughout the week. Highly suspicious. 

[Michael1962]

Maybe a question for @oldhippy as I cannot identify the brand etc. It can be had for $20 if I click 'Buy It Now'.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/194492954782?hash=item2d48aef89e:g:XgQAAOSwH~lhhxka

Edited November 7, 2021 by Michael1962

[oldhippy]

I never expected to see such a good movement in such a case. That is a very high class movement and I would say it's English and it is a Chime & Strike but with only two key holes, so the strike side also winds up the chime quite rear. Buy it 

[Michael1962]

Just bought it for $20. Will get myself up to Melbourne sometime shortly to pick it up.

We'll be going up there to see our son. He was coming down last night, but 2 days ago my daughter has been exposed as a first tier to a doctor at the clinic she works at. As she is quarantining here at home, Jarryd couldn't come down. Luckily he rang to say he was coming when he was only 10 minutes into a 1.5 hour trip.

[oldhippy]

Good for you. Hope you can post photos of the movement. I think it might have a third barrel for the chime and the strike side winds both. Hope your folks are OK.  

[Michael1962]

Will definitely post up some photos once I get it. I am still think ing about the grandmother clock that I asked about in the other thread.

Daughter got her first negative result back today. Has another test on Wednesday. If that comes back negative, all is well. She has been vaccinated, so that is a good thing.

Thanks for asking.  

Edited November 7, 2021 by Michael1962

[Michael1962]

What is done to repolish a wooden case? I admit that I do not know how this is done to not damage the finish as a clock is presented.

Are there any tricks of the trade that I need to know? Or do you just get stuck in with cedar oil like my wife uses or Mr. Sheen and some elbow grease?

Edited November 7, 2021 by Michael1962

[oldhippy]

Don't you mean replenish?. 

[Michael1962]

Thanks for that. Auto correct. I thought I had read back through the post before I clicked Submit. Obviously, not carefully enough.

I have changed the word to repolish, but replenish works just as well. 

[watchweasol]

Hi Michael  that looks a cracking clock for $20. Things like that are worth the wait   It will keep you busy.   As far as polishing the clock case goes depends on how bad it is. On some I have used very fine wire wool and the beeswax with elbow grease, But if the wood is dry a rub down with linseed oil to feed the wood buffed up when dry and back to the beeswax. I used to use Orange oil but cant get it now.   I dont like to strip the clock case unless its in a pretty poor state.  good luck with the clock.

[oldhippy]

The case looks good. A good bees wax polish to feed the wood should be all that is needed. Those synthetic polishes like Mr. Sheen I wouldn’t recommend them.