Jump to content

Eternamatic movement removal?


Recommended Posts

I have this Eternamatic that I am trying to identify and hopefully clean without damaging it or the Dial. The movement comes out with the case back, and I am assuming that the crown must be removed to access the movement?20210509_143451.thumb.jpg.4a41e0ed6e035c42e301f44029900ecc.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could be a two part stem. Some just pull apart, some will come apart if the stem is rotated just right.

My first course will be to try to lever the movement out by prying (gently!!!) under the dial on the crown side while simultaneously rotating the crown.

If that doesnt work then try pulling out the crown. However I would wait a few days to see if any others has had experience with this watch/case before trying.

rgds

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, anilv said:

Could be a two part stem. Some just pull apart, some will come apart if the stem is rotated just right.

My first course will be to try to lever the movement out by prying (gently!!!) under the dial on the crown side while simultaneously rotating the crown.

If that doesnt work then try pulling out the crown. However I would wait a few days to see if any others has had experience with this watch/case before trying.

rgds

Anilv

Thanks Anilv, I am not in a hurry but that gives me a couple of options to try, I don't want to damage the dial. After I figure out how to get it apart I will need some pointers on cleaning the dial. It seems that the glue from the gasket has gummed up the edges of the dial. Thanks again for the advice. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I noticed at 3 and 9, on the sub bezel? there are recesses, which seem to be intended for placing a screwdriver to compress the lens, (if the lens is acyrlic ) and perhaps once the lens is out, the movement and dial exit out the front. If the lens is glass, perhaps those recesses are to lever the bezel/sub-bezel? off.  I remember another watch I worked on, where the movement, dial, stem and all exited out the front, only after the crystal was removed. a Vacheron & Constantin-LeCoultre Galaxy, with a mystery dial if I remember correctly.

Or, as mentioned by someone else, it may be a split stem, or possibly a split stem, and out the front as well. Like the Omega Seamaster Cosmic. Really hard to say without a side view pic.

I believe in any case, that at some point, those recesses at 3 and 9 will be useful in some way. All conjecture on my part, no guarantees, only possibilities.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, OneBadWolf said:

I noticed at 3 and 9, on the sub bezel? there are recesses, which seem to be intended for placing a screwdriver to compress the lens, (if the lens is acyrlic ) and perhaps once the lens is out

Seems to me that the crystal is out already, as suggested above turn the crown slowly to align the stem joint while lifting up gently. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, OneBadWolf said:

I noticed at 3 and 9, on the sub bezel? there are recesses, which seem to be intended for placing a screwdriver to compress the lens, (if the lens is acyrlic ) and perhaps once the lens is out, the movement and dial exit out the front. If the lens is glass, perhaps those recesses are to lever the bezel/sub-bezel? off.  I remember another watch I worked on, where the movement, dial, stem and all exited out the front, only after the crystal was removed. a Vacheron & Constantin-LeCoultre Galaxy, with a mystery dial if I remember correctly.

Or, as mentioned by someone else, it may be a split stem, or possibly a split stem, and out the front as well. Like the Omega Seamaster Cosmic. Really hard to say without a side view pic.

I believe in any case, that at some point, those recesses at 3 and 9 will be useful in some way. All conjecture on my part, no guarantees, only possibilities.

 

Thanks, the top half of the case has set screws that allow you to remove it along with the crystal, now as you see it the dial is exposed and I need to pull the crown and stem to remove the movement. I will try and rotate the crown while prying gently and see if that works. I appreciate your help 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/10/2021 at 4:22 PM, OneBadWolf said:

I noticed at 3 and 9, on the sub bezel? there are recesses, .......... that at some point, those recesses at 3 and 9 will be useful in some way.

 

Hi wolf,

My guess is that these recesses are the edges of a round movement peeking past the dial.

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi my fellow forum addicts, I'm writing this as I seem to have a hole in my knowledge (probably one of many!) I seem to have a horrible time removing bezels from watches. I am talking about the rotating type on sports/diving watches. I see many videos where the guy on screen barely inserts the case knife under the bezel and with no effort it pops off easily, then at the end it clicks back into place by hand with no effort. I am sure that part of this is due to skillful video editing, but I seem to wrestle with them, I have tried case knives and  even when using the tool below, I tighten it up in several positions and nothing happens. On a many occasions I have even warped the bezel in my attempts to remove it. Similarly, I have issues replacing bezels after cleaning etc. and often they have to be replaced using a press tool and inevitably are far too tight and will not rotate or loose to the point where they fall off or loose their click (perhaps due to micro warping when I tried to remove??). It is now to the point where I am actually avoiding watches with bezels as my success rate with them is terrible......please help!! In short I am asking: What am I doing wrong? What is the best method for removing bezels - how do you do it? What is the best method for replacing bezels - how do you do it? Any tips or tricks? Thanks  
    • Amplitude still seems low, but I'm going to let it run in a bit and revisit. Meanwhile, got the first layer of the calendar works together and made sure the date ring snaps to both in quickset and regular setting. The mechanism is pretty cool, so I took a video.  
    • This is the part that need replaced if anyone can point me in the right direction. 
    • Hi wathweasol. I think it's made of brass. From the look of things, replacing the whole pusher as a set is beginning to be the way to go. Thanks. I'm thinking it could be just a tube and friction fit. I've taken another shot of the tube and posted here. Looks like just a tube fitted flush. Then, again, I have no experience in chronographs especially tubes and pushers. This one has no clips or washers to lock in the pusher in place. Coming from the outside, you'll have the button, spring and the stem inserted from the case and screwed in. The case holds the spring in place and the ridge at the other end of the stem keeps it from falling out of the case. Posted some pics here and an illustration to help. My sketch of how all the parts come in to play: Two different angles of the stem. Note the ridge near the slotted end that stops it falling out. This is an assembled piece of the one that was successfully pulled out. If it will have to be replaced, may I have some tips please on how to place an order, sizing, etc (Cousins, Esslinger,...) and on how to remove/install the pushers. My experience is just basic service with time only, day/date complications. Haven't had the opportunity to replace crown tubes and pushers. Thank you so much.
    • If you have no Powerpoint at Hand (but Libre-Office or whatever..), to get Access to the Videos in the pptx, make a Copy of the File, rename it to blabla.zip and unzip the File. Now in the Folder ppt/media you have all Pictures and Videos......   hope this helps some of us regards, Ernst
×
×
  • Create New...