Jump to content

watch case matching for Zenith cal 88 mechanism


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I am new here, so sorry if doing something wrong, but have a question.

Recently I got Zenith cal 88 mechanism and dial (it's diameter is 19.4 mm)

Trying to match some case for it, but not sure how to do it right.

For example, found some Casio watch that I can use it's case of 23mm size

https://www.amazon.com/Casio-Womens-EAW-LTP-1094Q-9ARDF-Analog-Quartz/dp/B000VYSUUW

but not sure what it's internal diameter ?

Any help ?

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Igal said:

Recently I got Zenith cal 88 mechanism and dial (it's diameter is 19.4 mm)

Trying to match some case for it, but not sure how to do it right.

Unfortunately matching a mov.t and case that are not made for each other is not easy at all, especially for or a beginner without machining tools and experience. Not only the the diameters mut be compatible but also the total height and the height of the stem. That even before examing the dial, the holder ring and other stuff.

That is the situation if you want an acceptable result. If you are OK with something cobbled up all you have to do is to cut and file some plastic spacer. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot.

I am trying to find the native case, but so far no luck ?

Regarding adding some plastic ring and cutting it, what I can do with the crown pin length, if I use bigger diameter, it will be a problem, or I can somehow enlarge it ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, Igal said:

, what I can do with the crown pin length, if I use bigger diameter, it will be a problem, or I can somehow enlarge it ?

"Crown pin" would be the winding stem? You can buy stem extensions that go from a size to another. But really I reccomed you start with an easier and more traditional project.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, Igal said:

Any content you can please advise to improve my current level (0.0) 

To learn watch repair there is one obvious place to go to since you are at this site.
https://www.watchfix.com/
Then there is another site if you decide watchmaking, is your thing.
https://learnwatchmaking.com/

The skill and knowledge you find between these two sites is probably the only thing you need to get you going.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Igal said:

Any content you can please advise to improve my current level (0.0) 

Get an €15 basic kit and some watches of no value from the drawers of family, etc. quartz or mechanical, does not make a difference but they must be working. 

Sit with work at elbow heigth and see if you can take them completely apart and put them back together. If you can do that without breaking or loosing any part, and if they will work, that would be an exceptional result for a beginner, so start the right expectation about that. 

That will make you understand if this hobby is right for you. So many have come to this forums declaring great passion and propositions, to not be ever heard again. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, Igal said:

Good point. Will work on my seiko 4R36A. Will post the photos of process if survive ?

Please get to attack something of zero value not a nice watch which by common sense is also quite costly. If you take apart that movement there is virtually zero chances you can put it back together without damage, we have plenty of threads from people which did that mistake exactly.

There is no need to be fixated about big brands in watchmaking, and one cannot pretend to run before learning how to walk. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, I don't have a zero value watch, but I do have some mechanism without balance spring ( I have ruined it some weeks before :).

 

So I kind of disassembled the 4R36A and my question if it looks ok and can I use ultrasonic cleaner to clean it, even thought I don't have any oil or grease yet. Meaning if I put it into water and then just dry it without oiling, might it catch some corrosion ? If I am talking nonsense, please let me know ?IMG_20210510_232731.thumb.jpg.def23968c95fef051b11bba080b6adf9.jpg

IMG_20210510_231247.jpg

IMG_20210510_231300.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Igal said:

So I kind of disassembled the 4R36A and my question if it looks ok and can I use ultrasonic cleaner to clean it, even thought I don't have any oil or grease yet. Meaning if I put it into water and then just dry it without oiling, might it catch some corrosion ? If I am talking nonsense, please let me know ?

If you dry the parts blowing air while in the thimble basket, then on absorbing paper there will be no corrosion, and for testing watches run just fine even when dry. Water alone is never used to clean watches, but demineralized water can be used as rinse between certain other solutions, have a read of the topic below.

Still, in general you are talking nonsense. Everyone is free to do as he wants with his property, but if you come to a repair forum don't expect to be anything but the proper way to do things. However your problem is not about oils, clean, dry or what else, is being able to put it back together a watch, have it working, and stop ruining. For the best chances put the 4R36 aside, get the tools, subscribe the watchfix.com training already suggested, at least get into understanding first how each part is called and what is its function.

We also like to respect every watch, no matter how cheap and useless, in admiration of the people that made it, which in most cases are hundreds time more able than us. That is the philosophy of watchmaking, doing things right or at least to the best of our abilities.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jdm said:

We also like to respect every watch, no matter how cheap and useless, in admiration of the people that made it...

I've seen this time and time again on many youtube watch channels.  No matter the level of the watchmaker or the price of the watch, each time, the utmost respect is given to the watch.  Even Mark when he was investigating the fake Rolex gave it his full love and care.  Of course, then he took an angle grinder to it but that's another story.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, Igal said:

I respect any watch, I just have this one,

Even if you can't leave house, or buy online, just leave a sign where you live that says, please "please gift me your zero value old watches for me to learn". Your Seiko 4R36 was working before you had the idea of using it a guinea pig to mess with the balance. Was that needed to learn, or a smart move? I don't think so. Are you alone in doing such things and even defending the act? Neither.

And this other thread sits on the other end of the spectrum, how to learn and fix watches which can proudly wear for almost no money

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually it was of my kid. He broke the glass of the back case and watch stopped to work.

I have dissembled it until I have found the glass particle that I decided stopped the watch and tried to assemble again.

But for some reason, when I installed the balance wheel, it's didn't run, so I played with this until broken ?

 

Anyway, I ordered new mechanism, and already replaced, cost me 33$ NH36A, and it looks OK, still waiting for new bottom case cover to arrive ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, Igal said:

But for some reason, when I installed the balance wheel, it's didn't run, so I played with this until broken ?

Thank you for explaining, knowing that would have saved the lecture above. Now you can try to put that mov.t back together but the most delicate part of that is handling and even refitting the balance. A genuine Seiko balance complete cost little less that the complete mov.t as you bought. The are Chinese ones are cheap but not 100% guaranteed to work good. Whatever the route you take I hope can get it working, good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks,

 

Actually, I have another seiko, mine, with same 4R36 that is still working ? I was thinking to borrow the balance after I reassemble the current one to verify that it started to work, but it sounds that you don't suggest to do so

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As an experiment i was thinking of not hardening it to see how it fairs. Now that i have a complete template i could knock up another in half the time if this loses its elasticity. I might play about with a few pieces today to test their bending and spring properties. This was cs 100 the supplier quoted in annealed state, it was nice to work with files so I'm taking it thats its state. What you are looking seems like it would need annealing to work it. This is why i went for this stuff that cuts out that process, it was so easy to work.
    • Showing state of hairspring on receipt, backplate & 'dished' wheel. 
    • I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?       Have you seen this video, he shows how to determine where the indents go ?  
    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
    • as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
×
×
  • Create New...