Jump to content

Repairing F300 Omega`s


Recommended Posts

I'm sure periodically someone asks about repairing the Repairing F300 Omega and such like tuning fork watches, can anyone recommend anyone. 

I know that there expensive, I've got to wonder if it worth having it done. 

In the meantime I've stripped mine down in the hope that it would be possible to get it going again without taking the coils and assembly apart. 

Thanks all. 

IMG_20210506_212058.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, antonyh said:

I've got to wonder if it worth having it done.

if you're wondering about whether it's worth getting it done the answers no. if you have sentimental feelings for the watch then the answer might be yes.

11 hours ago, antonyh said:

In the meantime I've stripped mine down in the hope that it would be possible to get it going again without taking the coils and assembly apart.

then doing a partial disassembly in the hopes that you can fix it only works if? Like for instance when was the last time the watch was serviced and what's the problem? Like it hasn't been serviced in a long time that's needed that means it has to come apart. This isn't really a watch to be working on unless you're familiar with tuning fork watches although it does have some nice features that makes it easier than some other tuning fork watches. But getting components is extremely difficult and they're usually really pricey. Then there is the other problem with the electrical stuff you need test equipment for that.

or there is a link for someone who works on them just one minor little problem if you look at the contact page he's on vacation? I know he still responds to the emails but he's taking four months off.

https://electric-watches.co.uk/service-and-repair/

https://electric-watches.co.uk/contact-me/

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Omega parts crop up every now and again on ebay but they're overpriced and you can't be certain if they're new old stock or not.

There is a seller 'esa-9162-9164' who every now and then sells complete, and working, modules. They're known as mosaba modules. The component parts are identical to the Omega and they're already set up for modern 1.5V batteries. 

To keep the originality of the Omega you would need to swap the plates and bridges around - Omega are copper, the ESA (or any other branded watch) are chrome. The module will need a service anyway so no additional work. 

The only tricky part of these watches are the driving pawls which you'll need a microscope to set/adjust correctly. The service manuals are available online. 

Make sure you are careful of ESD too, you could blow the transistors.

If you can work on mechanical watches then you have nothing to fear. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Omega parts crop up every now and again on ebay but they're overpriced and you can't be certain if they're new old stock or not.

There is a seller 'esa-9162-9164' who every now and then sells complete, and working, modules. They're known as mosaba modules. The component parts are identical to the Omega and they're already set up for modern 1.5V batteries. 

To keep the originality of the Omega you would need to swap the plates and bridges around - Omega are copper, the ESA (or any other branded watch) are chrome. The module will need a service anyway so no additional work. 

The only tricky part of these watches are the driving pawls which you'll need a microscope to set/adjust correctly. The service manuals are available online. 

Make sure you are careful of ESD too, you could blow the transistor. 

If you can work on mechanical watches then you have nothing to fear. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all for your input and the information. 

I've been reading all I can about them, including the manuals, the index wheel for me is the most important part, and trying not to damage it, I have cleaned it by following other people's ideas, ultrasonic cleaning it without touching the wheel. 

As for the driving pawls, I'm not touching them or the coils. 

As for will it go afterwards, it is in the hands of the gods, the movement hasn't been touched in forever, really dirty and gummed up. 

The coil did make a noise when I first got it, but that doesn't mean it was working correctly, at the moment this is an experiment to see if I can at least get it to do anything more than it was doing. 

I've got tomorrow on my own, piece and quiet, so fingers crossed. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, antonyh said:

Thanks all for your input and the information. 

I've been reading all I can about them, including the manuals, the index wheel for me is the most important part, and trying not to damage it, I have cleaned it by following other people's ideas, ultrasonic cleaning it without touching the wheel. 

As for the driving pawls, I'm not touching them or the coils. 

As for will it go afterwards, it is in the hands of the gods, the movement hasn't been touched in forever, really dirty and gummed up. 

The coil did make a noise when I first got it, but that doesn't mean it was working correctly, at the moment this is an experiment to see if I can at least get it to do anything more than it was doing. 

I've got tomorrow on my own, piece and quiet, so fingers crossed. 

To clean the index wheel and replace it would mean having to set the pawls in the correct position back on the wheel whether you'd have to adjust them or not. Although tiny, they are quite durable.

The fact that it is humming is a really good sign, at least the transistor and coils are good.

Good luck with the rest of the watch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I found the whole thing very interesting, I ended up stripping all the coils and assembly, I'm amazed how basic the design is. 

It's basically one pawl attached to the tuning fork and a static one attached to the upper plate. 

I thought I had a microscope, but when I went to use it the computer said it doesn't work with windows 10, dam and blast. 

Anyway after spending the afternoon with 2 eye glasses strapped to my head, I've decided that the index wheel is the problem,  it does still buzz, but the wheel does not carry on going. 

I have enjoyed doing it, its been an education. 

IMG_20210508_200935.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, antonyh said:

I've decided that the index wheel is the problem,  it does still buzz, but the wheel does not carry on going. 

occasionally the wheels show up on eBay I think the last time I saw one it was little over $100.

The little confused by the wording so does the wheel move at all? Or does it run and stop what exactly does it do?

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
    • Put the movement in a movement holder and it will be supported as you push down on the setting lever post to release the winding stem. Make sure the post is over the shoulder of the movement holder so what you are pressing down on is supported. As a general rule, hold the movement and not the movement holder. Replace the hands when the movement isn't in the case and support the centre jewel (if it has one) on a hard surface or staking block when replacing the hands to stop the jewel accidentally moving or even coming out. A dedicated movement holder with a central jewel support is even better, but pricey
    • It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
×
×
  • Create New...