Jump to content

Mainspring barrel arbor installation skill?


Recommended Posts

Reinstalling the arbor in a mainspring must be a skill that is honed over time.  I am not there yet.

It always presents a challenge to me. 

I set the barrel on a bench block with a big hole in the middle so that there is plenty of room for the barrel pivot.

If the mainspring diameter at the barrel is less than that of the barrel (as I would expect it should be...) I find it hard to get the thing to seat without a number of tries.

Today, I decided to insert the barrel sideways to expand the spring and then rotate it into place.  Still a challenge, but it finally worked.  This was a new mainspring.

The barrel went flying several times...but not too far.

Maybe the experts here can share a trick of the trade.

I did a search of the forum but did not find a discussion on this--possible I could have missed it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Reinstalling the arbor in a mainspring must be a skill that is honed over time.  I am not there yet.

It always presents a challenge to me. 

I set the barrel on a bench block with a big hole in the middle so that there is plenty of room for the barrel pivot.

If the mainspring diameter at the barrel is less than that of the barrel (as I would expect it should be...) I find it hard to get the thing to seat without a number of tries.

Today, I decided to insert the barrel sideways to expand the spring and then rotate it into place.  Still a challenge, but it finally worked.  This was a new mainspring.

The barrel went flying several times...but not too far.

Maybe the experts here can share a trick of the trade.

I did a search of the forum but did not find a discussion on this--possible I could have missed it.

It takes time and practice but slight pressure on the Arbour at an angle so the mainspring opens a bit with the angled pressure as you slide it into the hole.  It is of course over a hole on the bench block.  I should make a video on this technique 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What are you using to hold the arbor? Stainless steel tweezers, brass tweezers, pin vise or pin tongs?

Steel tweezers tend to slip more easily, brass is a little better. But the best method my mentor taught me was to use a barrel arbor vise. I don't think it is manufactured anymore. It looks like a pin tongs. So I bought a cheap pin tongs from Cousins and bored out the hole to grip the shoulder of the arbor. It gives a very secure grip on the arbor. A pin vise works too.

I'm sure if you look through your inheritance, you might just find a vintage barrel arbor vise. Happy hunting!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure that the arbor-hook is facing exactly the "opening / gap" in between the end of the spring and first inner-coil of the spring (picture taken of internet just to show, but of course the spring has to be seated in the barrel)

Main-spring.jpg.fab00fed94208952dce5e2c48a22a58a.jpg

While holding / pressing the arbor with brass-tweezers, I usually hold/support the barrel between my thumb, index- & middle finger; gives you far more "wiggling"-flexibility and you don't have to worry about that the arbor "stands-up". With a bit of practice and the arbor pops-in with not too much effort.

Suc6 ?

 

Edited by Endeavor
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another trick is to rotate the arbor against the direction the mainspring is wound.  This opens up the hole slightly.

But yeah, some go in easy, some take some persuasion.  Sometimes I've had to enlarge the hole a little with tweezers, especially when using a new mainspring that might not be an exact replacement.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

An Eclipse pin vice No. 123 is what I use to grip the arbor, after that whatever the technique you use, you will never lose the arbor again. It makes fitting the arbor into the spring child's-play. Any pin vice the correct size will work, there isn't a need for any specialist tool, trust me, try it and you'll see.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I picked up a similar amount of these jewels some years ago in a watch and clock fair. Every now and then they come in handy. This week I've got a rubbed in bombe jewel in the balance cock that is cracked and needs replacing. Very handy to have a vintage assortment of these type of jewels!
    • Great diagram with the teeth and pinion count. Simple way to reduce the speed of the hour wheel by the 12:1 minute wheel. Genius and yet so simple. Always good to reinforce the principal by what you have done in your drawing. Keep doing that. I had a drawing on my wall for years showing me this which is very similar to the drawing you have done. Here's a formula to work out the beats per hour of a watch movement. The movement's BPH is dictated by the wheel teeth and pinion count and the hairspring being vibrated to the correct BPH by finding the pinning up point on the hairspring using a vibrating tool.  The reason in the formula there is X2 on the top line is because there are two pallet stones.
    • So I just wanted to say "thank you" again.  The angle is the key bit it seems and yes, it did basically just fall, or float, back into position when I got it lined up just right. I had meant to add that now that I see how it goes in, I totally see how it came out in the first place, and that whomever cloned the original movement didn't pay much attention to the fine details around the setting or how it interfaces with the balance cock or the "rings" on the regulator and/or stud carrier arms.
    • Well I’ve never seen the make before and cannot find any info, I haven’t got it just yet it’s been left to me among a 1970’s sea master and a mid size yeoman. But if anyone has any information on this one please feel free to enlighten me, many thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...