Jump to content

Recommended Posts

ETA 2836-2 Disassembly walkthrough here

ETA 2836-2 Assembly walkthrough here

When I started out servicing watches (Vostok cal. 2414) I was desperately looking for easy to follow walkthroughs and tutorials. That was several years ago. I did find a walkthrough on WUS, and I did find the YT-videos of former car mechanic Dan, the “Ratfaced Git”, and although his approach was much that of a car mechanic, rather than that of a skilled watch repairer (he hardly knew the names of parts, didn’t care much, and was proud of it), it inspired me endlessly and gave me - at that time a complete mechanical idiot - the courage to try it myself. Without those videos I’m not sure my interest would have taken off. I know Dan struggled with many difficulties in his life including cancer, and it has been close to three years since he published anything on his YT-channel. Anyway, I hope you’re still with us “Ratfaced git” and I say thank you for the inspiration and dedicate this walkthrough to you.

In ETA’s technical communication for calibre 2836-2 the assembly is made in seven steps in the following order:

1. Keyless works
2. Train of wheels
3. Mainspring barrel and bridge
4. Balance assembly
5. Self-winding mechanism
6. Dial train (/motion works) and the calendar works part 1
7. Dial train (/motion works) and the calendar works part 2

However, if you follow my assembly procedure, I put it together in a different order as I find it more convenient and wish to test the running of the watch as soon possible, that is, as soon as the train of wheels, barrel, and balance have been replaced. If at that point it’s not running well, I can more easily deal with it before continuing on with the assembly. Also, should problems arise at a later stage I’ll know it’s (very likely) not related to the train, barrel or balance. The downside, of course, is that the balance is exposed to potential damage for a longer period, although it can of course be removed. So, here are the steps of my assembly procedure:

1. Train of wheels
2. Mainspring barrel and bridge
3. Balance assembly
4. Keyless works
5. Dial train (/motion works) and the calendar works part 1
6. Dial train (/motion works) and the calendar works part 2
7. Self-winding mechanism

Apart from the click spring and the pallet stones, the oiling suggestions follow ETA’s technical communication.

Finally, I make walkthroughs for my personal use and enjoyment. They are not meant to be tutorials (for that I wholeheartedly recommend watchrepairlessons.com), but I like to share them in case there’s someone who would find them useful.

So, without further ado…

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent post! ?

I am about to repair one of these movements this week after a few years away from the hobby and this will definitely come in very handy. ?

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi there Vwatchie ,my that is excellent work ,your photography is crisp and shows how clean that movement is . Thanks for taking the time to display .

Cheers Graziano

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

@VWatchie That's really great work!

Simply presented with plenty of pictures that speak a thousand words.

You've got a talent for teaching!

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Jon said:

You've got a talent for teaching!

Thank you very much for your kind words @Jon! I actually work as a teacher. However, I teach programming (C#/.NET/SQL) and not about watches. I enjoy doing watches (real things) more than programming (virtual things).

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, alibababoombap said:

Amazing walkthrough! Could I ask what camera you're using for these shots? The closeups are so crisp!

Thanks for you kind words. I simply use an iPhone 8 and an inexpensive $10 clip-on macro lens. I used to have an iPhone 6 and it worked just as well, but the battery died and I had to "upgrade". The "secret" is the lighting, and I always support my hands against the table and move the phone back and forth to get the best possible focus. It takes some practice and experimenting. In the beginning it used to happen that I dropped, or almost dropped the phone on the movement, which can lead to some pretty dramatic damage, but after some practice and experience I got the hang of it.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites


  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Nucejoe has made some good points about the calendar mechanism. If the watch physically stops at least the hands stop and the secondhand keeps going that means the watch train is running it means that it's a disconnect between the gear train and our minute hand in calendar mechanism. The Canon opinion which I'm going but I guess is the type that snaps into a drive wheel. The drive wheel is driven by the gear train the Canon pinion goes on the post there is no friction there. If the friction between the drive wheel in the Canon pinion disintegrates which he can then with the least amount of friction like a calendar mechanism it just quit striving. The hands come to a stop the watch keeps running the secondhand keeps moving because it's independence of all of this. It should have been obvious when the watch was going to gather and you check the setting mechanism before you put the calendar on you would have noticed zero friction as a guess. Even now when you go into hands setting you'll feel like there's no friction at all. Then the reason why the calendar mechanism works when you manually rotate the hands is because the setting wheel is driving the Canon pinion directly which is driving the calendar mechanism and that our wheel and all of that so all of that will run from that we just will not run from the gear train running the drive wheel that's connected to the Canon pinion. But that's just my wild guess and then we throw in Nucejoe's possible calendar mechanism increased friction than we need to really isolate all of this or we can continue to guess.  
    • I am not sure if I correctly understand you here. Only the seconds hand keeps running or minute and hour hands do move too, in case minute and hour hands move and show time right, then the fault is in date change train including date jumper mech, but if it doesn't show time correctly ( appear to loose time) then its loose canon pinion. You can tighten a loose canon pinion, use grease to lube it, not oil.
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
    • always confusing when it's two separate watches but I'm going to assume they're basically identical. What was their condition before you service them in other words did have a problem before and the problem came after you've serviced or was the problems there before? Then timing machine results you do have a timing machine don't you? In other words what's the running condition of the watch like of the watches barely running that would be an issue for a calendar change   then you fix the problem? so I'm guessing we only have to worry about the 2778 then? Yes this is what happens when you have multiple watches with too much going on it becomes confusing. then it would be helpful to have a picture of the dial side components because we didn't memorize every single calendar change mechanism. one of the places to look is the Canon pinion assembly in other words to visit have enough force to drive the calendar mechanism? I'm having to guess because I'm not finding a good tech sheet that shows the parts. If it's a kinda Canon pinion I think which is the Canon pinion that slips into her presses into with friction with the wheel if it no longer has and the friction then a cannot drive the calendar but if you manually set the watch that drives the Canon pinion directly and everything should function. then if you two of the parts list it would be listed as canon pinion with drive wheel. .But it would be helpful in the picture just to make sure http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_2778  
    • I think what the problem here is you're asking the wrong question. The question is what part number do I need so that I can end up with the correct balance? Or the correct balance staff for that matter? If you look at the second link it lists the parts for your watch. This is always where things get interesting? you'll notice for balance staff they list seven different ones. For balance complete they do show three but if you look at the part numbers there's only two. then I attached some images from bestfit online and of course additional problems perhaps. Notice you have lots of choices and probably only one that's right. then the physical bestfit book becomes interesting because is an indication that there are variations which is of course why there so many listed in the images. but fortunately it looks like you want the basic simple one which should be 100/66.  unfortunately for the third link it's out of stock. then providing this is the right staff number I snipped out a couple of more images of the bestfit book which is what the dimensions mean and the dimensions. One of the irritating things of the physical book is on the dimension chart if you're trying to find a particular staff you just have to be lucky to go through the list and find it it be really nice if they list of the sizes by the numeric staff also. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&AS_1287 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=AS_1287 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=U\ZD]J http://www.julesborel.com/s.nl/it.A/id.151223/.f  
×
×
  • Create New...