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ETA 2836-2 Service Walkthrough


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17 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

But the balance staff is to be stuck in the pith wood with the epilam for the balance pivots.

I do not treat any parts of the balance assembly with epilame (except for the cap jewels and the chatons). I was wondering if treating the balance staff pivots wouldn't be beneficial and now I know how! Thanks! 👍

Again thanks for your input John, very useful, as always! 🙂

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7 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

I was wondering if treating the balance staff pivots wouldn't be beneficial and now I know how!

attaching the vintage Omega document something that I scanned in to a PDF. Even though it's vintage a lot of the cleaning is still valid. Lubrication choices are what I would recommend. Still an interesting document. Also interesting because now you know it exists when you look at all the service guides there is no reference almost a lubrication and definitely no reference to epilam and yet here's this document talking about epilam. It's back to my complaint of we don't get the complete picture which would have an influence on our choices of lubrication possibly.

632242668_OilingOmegawatches1957.PDF

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On 5/28/2023 at 8:40 AM, VWatchie said:

"In ETA's documentation, the assembly of the movement begins with the keyless works, then the train of wheels and then the barrel bridge. The crucial problem with this arrangement is that it is physically impossible to mount the barrel bridge if the train of wheels is already mounted. It is also very fiddly and difficult to baste the end of the winding stem into the winding pinion hole because the hole for the winding stem in the main plate is both open and tapered and therefore does not hold the winding stem.

I totally agree! I never start with the keyless work, unless it's a quartz. And you are dead right when trying to fit the barrel bridge on a 2892 after the train bridge. Try is the operative word there! It is clearly a 'crock of' And why do ETA arbitrarily make up names for wheels. Calling a fourth wheel a 'seconds wheel' is ridiculous and confusing for some. Anyway, rant over... lol

Here's what Rolex want treated with epilame on their 3135

epilame 3135.jpg

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I'm currently working on an ETA 2879, and found the same fault I found on the last ETA movement I worked on. Kalle Slaap has mentioned this problem on Chronoglide and suggests it's an ETA  manufacturing fault. There is too much endshake on the intermediate wheel, which means that it can rub against the bottom of the barrel. I just push the top jewel down a touch.

Worth checking on ETA movements which have this arrangement.

image.png.3ee9ce237a6dc7a155143e229e618a4e.png

Kalle shows it in a new video (at 57:22)

 

Edited by mikepilk
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3 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

I'm currently working on an ETA 2879, and found the same fault I found on the last ETA movement I worked on. Kalle Slaap has mentioned this problem on Chronoglide and suggests it's an ETA  manufacturing fault. There is too much endshake on the intermediate wheel, which means that it can rub against the bottom of the barrel. I just push the top jewel down a touch.

Worth checking on ETA movements which have this arrangement.

image.png.3ee9ce237a6dc7a155143e229e618a4e.png

Great tip! I'll keep an eye out for that. I've come across jewels on Sellita SW500's that have been fitted upside down at factory, so nothing tends to surprise me anymore. I had a shockproof spring on a Rolex 2135 glued in place this week. No reason to do that, as it worked fine once it had been removed.

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3 hours ago, mikepilk said:

Worth checking on ETA movements which have this arrangement.

image.png.3ee9ce237a6dc7a155143e229e618a4e.png

Very valuable tip and this arrangement is common for many ETA movements! Thanks! 🙂👍

3 hours ago, Jon said:

I've come across jewels on Sellita SW500's that have been fitted upside down at factory

😱

3 hours ago, Jon said:

I had a shockproof spring on a Rolex 2135 glued in place this week.

😮

Really goes to show you can't take anything for granted when working on watches.

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On 5/29/2023 at 5:03 AM, JohnR725 said:

attaching the vintage Omega document something that I scanned in to a PDF. Even though it's vintage a lot of the cleaning is still valid. Lubrication choices are what I would recommend. Still an interesting document. Also interesting because now you know it exists when you look at all the service guides there is no reference almost a lubrication and definitely no reference to epilam and yet here's this document talking about epilam. It's back to my complaint of we don't get the complete picture which would have an influence on our choices of lubrication possibly.

632242668_OilingOmegawatches1957.PDF 8.5 MB · 6 downloads

Great document.  Reminds me of everything I do wrong.  E.g., no epilame in my shop!!

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1 hour ago, LittleWatchShop said:

E.g., no epilame in my shop!!

I wouldn't call it critical, I wouldn't say it improves performance, but I would suspect (and hope) epilame to prolong the service intervals.

Edited by VWatchie
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5 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Great document.  Reminds me of everything I do wrong.  E.g., no epilame in my shop!!

yes these vintage documents nice where they explained things versus today where there is slightly less explaining.

It also brings up a problem. The biggest problem is exists and how do we know it exists because I scanned it to a PDF you can see it exists but otherwise how would you know this exists? It's the annoyance I have with the watch companies where there's so much bonus as I will call it documentation that never sees the light of day just because it doesn't. Basically all the procedural stuff of how to do things. Then today it's even worse because they don't want to share with anybody even including people that have accounts with them

then epilam? Is it really needed in your shop maybe maybe not. its purpose is to keep the lubrication wherever it's been placed hopefully for the time in between servicing. Always bad for a variety of reasons if your lubrication is no longer doing its thing because it's typically spread away from wherever you placed it with the unfortunate problem of synthetic oils not getting sticky conceivably on a timing machine we may or may not see a problem with the lubrication. At least not until it's really bad and then it will be extremely bad

then do you really needed in your shop? If you look at the scanned document what are they using on the keyless and yes I know I should a photograph that page where I get all the lines to line up with their bottles. If I knew where I put the physical thing I'd rescan at least that part. But they're using something really thin on the keyless. Oh don't worry I had looked and they're using something heavier in a few years and now are all the way up to heavy oil? So basically with the oils that are using epilam will allow them to stay where there supposed to be. But what about if you used grease instead? Especially if you using some of the horological grease. for instance if you look at some of the horological greases we will see that it has thixotropic properties. In other words is a grease and stays were you wanted but on friction becomes more fluid. Wouldn't this be better for keyless works it will stay where it's needed then would you still need epilam for a grease perhaps?

then in the case of @LittleWatchShop I believe he is currently hoarding the world supply of Elgin oil. A oil that has a very interesting property and what I can tell much much better than the Swiss oils of it stays wherever you place it. So conceivably you don't need epilam because it's better at staying wherever you put it.

3 hours ago, VWatchie said:

I wouldn't call it critical, I wouldn't say it improves performance, but I would suspect (and hope) epilame to prolong the service intervals

so basically it isn't going to hurt anything isn't going to improve the quality of lubrication but it should hopefully guarantee that the lubrication stays wherever it's been placed in between servicing. As opposed to mysteriously disappearing like lubrication's sometimes do.

 

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