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Making a Raised Jewel Setting

jdrichard
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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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Following the Chicago School of Watchmaking Manual, somewhat, I made from scratch a raised jewel setting for a Ball Pocket Watch. I did this because the old setting had a broken jewel and the material to burnish was cracked on one side. I also put a video on YouTube and will share the link.

Steps

1. Source, size and chuck the stock material 

2. Pick the jewel and using peg wood, stab it to hold it on the peg wood .

3. Drill a hole in the brass slightly smaller than the jewel. Make the hole long in case of do-overs.

4. Size and drill a straight hole just deep enough for burnishing lip.

5. Place the jewel in the hole with a little spit on the end so it stays in place.

6. With a very sharp needle like graver, cut a small trench just beside the hole and only to the depth of reaching the jewel. This will be your burnishing material.

7. Burnish in the material over the jewel. May need to make a tool for this.

8. Face off the setting up to the bent burnished material.

9. With a flat stake, lightly tap the burnishing material flat over the jewel. This is to just make sure there are not any raised edges.

10. Measure the old jewel setting diameter and then cut the Brass rod to a length twice its’ height and to its diameter. Hand fit the plate hole on the brass rod until it fits snugly.

11. Mark the height of the setting on the brass rod and shape the material to look like the old setting. Work slowly.

12. Cut away the new setting just above the height mark.

13. Place the setting in a jewel chuck, top side out and face off the setting to the right height.

14. Cut the inside material of the setting removing enough material and shaping to look like the old setting. Do not cut too deep or you will remove the top material holding the jewel in place. Using a polished steel rod, carefully burnish the inside of the setting until it shines.

15. Fit the new setting in the plate for final look and fit and adjust the top if needed again in the lathe.

That’s it. Thanks.

His a link to my 90 min video showing all the detailed technique.

Making a Complex Raised Watch Setting https://youtu.be/gkXw-JPnNPA

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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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Just now, jdrichard said:

Following the Chicago School of Watchmaking Manual, somewhat, I made from scratch a raised jewel setting for a Ball Pocket Watch. I did this because the old setting had a broken jewel and the material to burnish was cracked on one side. I also put a video on YouTube and will share the link.

Steps

1. Source, size and chuck the stock material 

2. Pick the jewel and using peg wood, stab it to hold it on the peg wood .

3. Drill a hole in the brass slightly smaller than the jewel. Make the hole long in case of do-overs.

4. Size and drill a straight hole just deep enough for burnishing lip.

5. Place the jewel in the hole with a little spit on the end so it stays in place.

6. With a very sharp needle like graver, cut a small trench just beside the hole and only to the depth of reaching the jewel. This will be your burnishing material.

7. Burnish in the material over the jewel. May need to make a tool for this.

8. Face off the setting up to the bent burnished material.

9. With a flat stake, lightly tap the burnishing material flat over the jewel. This is to just make sure there are not any raised edges.

10. Measure the old jewel setting diameter and then cut the Brass rod to a length twice its’ height and to its diameter. Hand fit the plate hole on the brass rod until it fits snugly.

11. Mark the height of the setting on the brass rod and shape the material to look like the old setting. Work slowly.

12. Cut away the new setting just above the height mark.

13. Place the setting in a jewel chuck, top side out and face off the setting to the right height.

14. Cut the inside material of the setting removing enough material and shaping to look like the old setting. Do not cut too deep or you will remove the top material holding the jewel in place. Using a polished steel rod, carefully burnish the inside of the setting until it shines.

15. Fit the new setting in the plate for final look and fit and adjust the top if needed again in the lathe.

That’s it. Thanks.

His a link to my 90 min video showing all the detailed technique.

Making a Complex Raised Watch Setting https://youtu.be/gkXw-JPnNPA

 

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