Guys I just received a Master model cleaner and I am going to have to completely rewire the machine. I would like to convert it to a mastermatic be replacing the forward and reverse switch with a time relay circuit. Has anyone done this and if so any guidance would amazing. Thanks.
I measured my Omega Caliber 1120 through an timegrapher app. (Dial Up, full wind)
I know the app is not very accurate.
I checked about +100s/d difference and sharply tilted graph .
The odd thing is that the bottom part of the graph is not printed every 100+- seconds.(red-colored circle)
Is this a feature of the timegrapher, or does it indicate abnormal state of movement component?
Thank you for the comments.
A vintage Elgin 15/0, Gr 559. I took it down, cleaned and lubricated it and it is gaining 15 minutes/24 hours. I have looked at the HS, it appears to be perfect, clean, flat, not magnetized (de-magged the movement X 3 already), and in position between the regulator pins. Not hung on the center wheel. Correct mainspring, and balance is not knocking. I do not remember amplitude, but IIRC, it was above 22 which is O.K. by me with the movement. Please give me some ideas as to how to correct this. It doesn't seem like there are enough timing washers in the world to slow this down!
Hi, my name is Ross. I am a rookie watch enthusiast and I am really puzzled here.
Could someone explain to me what kind of a problem am I facing with my timegrapher?
I do two sets of measurements with the same watch (1 day or 6 days apart) and receive vastly different results - to the point of being completely different from what I observe in real life.
For example, my timegrapher shows that my watch is running fast (or ahead of time), while in real life I observe that it runs 7 seconds per day behind. I even recorded a video about it so you could see it for yourself: https://youtu.be/mhGzf6aLMlY
How should I interpret that? Am I doing anything wrong?
I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
I have put the watch on the timegrapher
The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
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does the hairspring always need to be shaped where it rests against the regulator pin? Or is it ok if the hairspring touches the boot side with the screw slot instead? Seems to me it wouldnt make a difference as long as it touches one side or the other
Well. It seems it can not be take out unless you have a jewelling machine. That's why I'm asking
something like that but it doesn't have anything screw to release it. It's the jewel of train of wheels，not balance
i recently broke my patek 5134 by winding a little too vigorously. heard a click sound and can no longer wind the watch. it has a 215 PS movement after dissasembly, i see that the "under" wheel that the crown wheel is attached to (located under the barrel bridge) has a couple of broken teeth. the wheel has 3 screw holes and a nub in the middle for the crown wheel to attach to. from my searches on the internet, it appears this part is #421, but i am not sure, wondering if anyone can confirm correct part number or has any ideas where to procure part. i will attach a picture showing the part, its the silver part under the highlighted bushing with 3 holes in it.
Hopefully a decade of experience after graduation from Mark Lovicks courses, you will have acquired enough skills to attempt servicing the Wittnauer complications. Let us enjoy watching its picture please. Meanwhile we can have fun playing baseball or with the seiko. Just a thought. Regards.