Jump to content

Alert ! Magnetized Bergeon N˚4040 movement holder.


Endeavor

Recommended Posts

Dear all;

Working on a chronograph, after assembling the demagnetized motion-parts, the motion work ran all over the place. Next to a few other suspicions, the possibility that something had gone wrong during the demagnetization of the parts was one of them. Started checking the movement with a compass, but actually found that my metal Bergeon N˚4040 movement holder was magnetized.

Even though the holders' side-plates and guides are made out Stainless Steel, the adjustment screw and circlip aren't. To find out exactly what was magnetized, I disassembled the holder and put each part on the compass.

First picture the compass in "neutral";

M1.thumb.jpg.77e58bf9ef95d10b47d2e62486b2688b.jpg

Checking the both side-plates, the small part at first;

M3.thumb.jpg.840548ad3881f7640a9f5b70c9859a41.jpg

Some slight residual magnetism in the side-plate with the guide-rails;

M4.thumb.jpg.ca8879e7a8b333980aeddc4c9c57c1ba.jpg

However, very strong residual magnetism in the screw and circlip. So much so that I could move the compass needle in any desired direction;

M6.thumb.jpg.e0a2483e2d4f3b669a31705e5eda3b2e.jpg

M5.thumb.jpg.ae79c4690d23d613d6f4884e25af4dd0.jpg

 

To be honest, I never checked & suspected my movement holder for magnetism. When demagnetizing watch-parts, I always do keep all other metal objects well away from the demagnetizer.

I have used the movement holder already for quite some years, so how and when it became magnetized is unknown to me. That it can become (strongly) magnetized is a new lesson to me.

Be aware ?

 

 

Edited by Endeavor
  • Thanks 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing I was taught at the beginning of my watchmaking apprenticeship always demagnetize all of your tools before you start a new watch repair and always  demagnetize the watch you are about to repair.

 

You don't expect that from Bergeon as you know their tools are expensive, that is a bad design. Contact them you never know they might send you something. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, Endeavor said:

Even though the holders' side-plates and guides are made out Stainless Steel

Thee plates of the 4040 don't look as made of SS and Bergeon doesn't say that they are, what they say is "nickeled sheet metal".  https://www.bergeon.swiss/porte-piece-reversible-1107.html

The 4040P holder has plastic plates, hardware could be SS, hence fully amagnetic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 4040 plates did appear as being SS.

I'm aware of the 4040P with carbon-fiber plates, but if the adjustment screw and guide-rails are not SS, you may have the same problem (?)

The main residual magnetism seem to sit in the adjustment screw and circlip. Whether this could have been caused by years of rotation (clock- anti-clockwise) in perhaps two different composition materials is for me a guess.

But the fact is, it's there and lurking right underneath the movement at hand.

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
×
×
  • Create New...