Making a Jewel Setting - Detailed Tutorial

[jdrichard]

Folks. I went all the way here and made a video on how to make a jewel setting from scratch. This setting was for an upper plate intermediate (3rd) wheel. The challenge I had was the jewel I used was a 30/180 and should have been a 30/170; so it made making the rim for burnishing a bit tricky. You will see some really close action here as well. Please comment on this full feature film.

 

[LittleWatchShop]

I watched the first video (ff through various segments).  Mainly interested in watching lathe technique.  I am a long way from wanting to make and install a jewel setting.

Will watch the second one later.

[jdrichard]

5 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I watched the first video (ff through various segments).  Mainly interested in watching lathe technique.  I am a long way from wanting to make and install a jewel setting.

Will watch the second one later.

Hey thanks for watching

[LittleWatchShop]

BTW, I wear a cap except when I am sleeping...well even then, but it is not a BB cap.  My cap is  John Deere (like my tractor).  When I go into the lab to do watch work, I have to take it off or reverse it.   LOL...we are brothers from a different mother.

[DavidADav]

That’s great - very informative! I was just about to post a question around how to do this today, as I have an old Waltham with multiple broken jewels. Now I know I have a lot to learn and practice before trying my hand at that repair…

[jdrichard]

11 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

BTW, I wear a cap except when I am sleeping...well even then, but it is not a BB cap.  My cap is  John Deere (like my tractor).  When I go into the lab to do watch work, I have to take it off or reverse it.   LOL...we are brothers from a different mother.

That’s probably why my hair ran away. I did play a lot of baseball.

[jdrichard]

7 hours ago, DavidADav said:

That’s great - very informative! I was just about to post a question around how to do this today, as I have an old Waltham with multiple broken jewels. Now I know I have a lot to learn and practice before trying my hand at that repair…

It is very doable. Just follow what I did to the tee. I made a few mistakes with practice settings. The two toughest parts are depthing the jewel correctly and with the right shape within the setting and cutting the burnishing material, the trench as I call it. If you have a microscope over cross slides then no need to do this by hand, however, by hand worked best. Very pointed and sharp gravers as well. And lastly, if you can reverse you lathe spin direction, you can cut the inside hole to perfect shape by eye. I didn’t so I used cross slides and made a custom graver.