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1983 Timex Red Dot Diver - Before & After


JerseyMo

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A recent online purchase and repair to a 1983 Timex commonly called "Red Dot Diver".  Bought in non-working order I found internal damage due to a sheared pillar screw. With the aid of my parts collection all was corrected.  Here is the before and after.

- New Crystal

- replace pillar screw

- replace hour wheel

- COA ( clean, oil, adjust )

- polish buff

Only follow up has been with the seconds hands not seating correctly.  This is very common with vintage Timex because there is no center tube. So once lifted off the seconds wheel the hole tends to be distorted.  Typically I will place hand on a flat metal surface and peen the metal down. In this case that did not work so I when to next level and add a dot of black nail polish. The watch would have originally come with a stainless steel bracelet and the white strap on it now is for wrist worn testing.

 

Before.jpg

After.jpg

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Great looking watch! I recently got this same watch in a lot sale. It's a strong runner, but the stem doesn't seem to seat inside the movement in a secure enough manner to wind it. It will slip when trying to wind. I'm fairly familiar with taking these apart but I haven't encountered a Timex like this yet where the movement is fastened inside the case. I can't quite figure out how to remove it from the case. I've snapped one of those 4 pins holding the dial on before so I've been skittish about playing with it too much. Really awesome to see your before-after photos. Thanks!

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23 hours ago, TC519 said:

the movement comes out the front.  Pop the case back off and remove the stem crown by loosening the set lever screw a little. Next lift the bezel ring and the crystal. Then movement will than come out the front.  It sounds like there may just be some built up grime in the stem tube.

 

 

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Wow. These must be a seasonal thing. Finished this one last week. Maybe they somehow appear most frequently during tax season. 

Timex2021-05-11-174900.thumb.jpg.66a2294c62b9b02ae92a4101bd2da993.jpg

 The proportions, and layout of this watch aesthetically, is IMHO is  so pretty, that at the risk of sounding snobby, I'm amazed Timex ever managed such a design. If it were a sterile dial, and I were guessing, Omega might seem a possible influence. The red dot, floating around the dial is the iceing on the cake. If only more of Timex's other watches of that period were this nice.

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    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
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