Cleaning Fluids

[JohnR725]

What's interesting with this group is that people ask questions. Like what should I clean my watch with has probably been asked before do a search. But I'll start you off with a couple.

The problem with lighter fluid is it may have additional things in there that are not good for cleaning watches. But you'll find that a lot of people use it so who cares if it's not the best. If it has additional oils waxes her stuff like that it may allow the oil to spread much much faster. Somewhere in a discussion within the last month or two someone suggested buying something off of eBay it's basically more pure but since I conveniently can't find that discussion. In a case it's been asked before do a search. At least we are starting off do a search because as I said more than likely it's been asked before

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1879-cleaning-solutions-ultrasonic-and-not/

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/13246-cleaning-watch-parts/#comment-118370

 

[SebastienPage]

Hi John. Thank you for your reply. I am well aware of how forums work and a search is the first thing I did. It didn’t return any satisfactory answer so this is why I posted a new topic. I also figured that having one place to list specific brands would not only help me, but likely other beginners like me who don’t necessarily want to invest in an ultrasound cleaning machine.

The reason why I want to list specific brands is to narrow down the ones that do not contain (or contain a minimal amount of) the additional unwanted ingredients you referred to.

[HectorLooi]

I've been using brands like Ronsonol and Zippo. While it might not be up to horological standards, many hobbyists have used it with satisfactory results.

John says other stuff has been added to lighter fluid which could be detrimental to proper functioning of the watch. My opinion is lighter fluid is distilled to a lower degree of purity.

You can test it yourself by putting a drop of it on a clean piece of glass and letting it evaporate, then check for residues. There might be some oils with lower volatility in the lighter fluid that need a longer period of time to completely evaporate, and some people might say that it would affect the performance of the watch. But if you observe the piece of glass for a longer period, the "residues" do evaporate eventually. 

But I guess if you're in the horological business and time is money, the use of a horological cleaning product is justified. 

I hope this helps. 

[jdm]

10 hours ago, SebastienPage said:

I know you can use lighter fluid as a way to clean watch parts. While I understand this is not ideal to advanced hobbyists, I can’t justify investing in cleaning machines/solutions at this time.

Despite its widespread use, lighter fluid is not what should be used. It is made it burn not to clean. One bottle of petroleoum ether (benzine, refined naptha) is not expensive, actually is a lot cheaper per quantity purchased. Neither expensive is isopropyl alchool. Link below is mostly useful to readers from the UK but the same product is available is all countries under different names. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Petroleum-Ether-80-C-100-C-500ml-Petroleum-Spirit-Shipped-Same-Day/142061406816

BTW, we have a section here where it's considered polite for new members to introduce themselves first. 

[watchweasol]

Hi   The use of brake cleaner or carburettor cleaner may also be considered, both have a high evaporation factor and leave no deposits. I have used both with no ill effects. The final rinse being Isopropyl alcohol.

Neither product being expensive and available in Auto spares shops.

 

[Woolshire]

I have used a 50/50 mix of naphtha and Goo Gone (naphtha plus an orange oil) as a cleaner and a couple pure naphtha rinses. All done in the ultrasonic. I really don’t believe I’ve ever seen anything clean better and leave zero residue. Of course, the key is pure final rinse naphtha.

The only thing is that the brightening of the parts isn’t as good as some of the popular cleaners made for the purpose. 
I wouldn’t hesitate to use this today if running low on “real” cleaner. Thought I would post because I hadn’t seen much on the Goo Gone addition.

[LittleWatchShop]

I did the experiment yesterday.  Deposited both Coleman fuel and Ronsonol on a clean glass plate.

Both left a residue that was visually equivalent.

[Woolshire]

13 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I did the experiment yesterday.  Deposited both Coleman fuel and Ronsonol on a clean glass plate.

Both left a residue that was visually equivalent.

I wonder what would happen if you do that with your favorite cleaning solution? Also, I’m not sure if Ronsonol has any other ingredients. Pure naphtha won’t leave a residue, from my experience.

 

[LittleWatchShop]

2 minutes ago, Woolshire said:

wonder what would happen if you do that with your favorite cleaning solution

All I have is Ronsonol and Coleman.

[mcoulton]

Hello

Not really a watch question, however I thought I would it it a try. I have a couple of Silver Beer Mugs that are tarnished and all I have to clean them with is the L & R Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution (ammoniated) and a ultrasonic machine. I also have the L & R Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution and an Ultrasonic machine. Does anyone know if I can use these two products on the silver beer mugs or should I get another type of cleaner> Also should I be diluting the cleaning and rinse solutions? 

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided.

Michael

[oldhippy]

All you need is a tub of goddard's silver polish and a cloth. When polished wash with hot soapy water and dry.  

[mikepilk]

I've just bought 2.5 litres of Elma WF Pro - cheaper than buying 3.8 L of L&R. 

I'll see how it compares to the Naphtha I've been using.

Looking at the data sheet for the L&R - seems to be about 60% Stoddard Solvent (White Spirit in the UK, Mineral Spirits in the US), 20% Naphtha, and a touch of ammonia and some sort of detergent (?). 

Question - how do you dispose of used fluids ? 

I will only have small amounts to dispose of. With Naphtha, I've either poured it on concrete in the garden to evaporate, or burned it in a jar. 

[JohnR725]

13 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

Looking at the data sheet for the L&R - seems to be about 60% Stoddard Solvent (White Spirit in the UK, Mineral Spirits in the US), 20% Naphtha, and a touch of ammonia and some sort of detergent (?). 

I did notice if you look at the various forms of non-water-based cleaning fluids they're all very similar. There's some sort of base solvent. Ammonia removes the tarnish brightens the plates to be used with caution.  some form of detergent or equivalent to hopefully cause things to go into the solution. They usually the rinse is basically the base chemical Without the cleaning products.

14 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

Question - how do you dispose of used fluids ? 

I will only have small amounts to dispose of. With Naphtha, I've either poured it on concrete in the garden to evaporate, or burned it in a jar. 

Depending upon where you live in the world officially you're supposed to return it to a hazardous waste site properly labeled of course. OR as a quantity is so small you could say that for other cleaning so it's dirty. In other words pre-cleaning other watches that are really really dirty. Or even cleaning automotive parts you can use it for just about any cleaning.

Then you're right if you accidentally spill it on concrete for instance it should evaporate. According to the sheet I've attached you could burn it although hinting at it has to be an improved burner whatever that means? Then accidentally spilling it on unwanted plants in the driveway for instance doesn't look like it's approved of on the sheet. Although it would probably murder the poor defenseless weeds and then evaporate hopefully.

 

 

ELMA PI_WF PRO_EN.pdf

[LittleWatchShop]

46 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

accidentally spill it on concrete for instance it should evaporate

In Texas...in the Summer.  It is easy to set volatile stuff out in a can or jar and let it evaporate.  Hot concrete is effective as well!

[LittleWatchShop]

BTW...I ordered a vintage L&R cleaning machine so that now I can buy the proper cleaning solutions (e.g. L&R), do proper cleaning, and hopefully raise my stature on this forum

Edited April 22, 2021 by LittleWatchShop

[watchweasol]

Ones status is irrelevant its the person that counts, and their attitude , 

[JohnR725]

10 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Ones status is irrelevant its the person that counts, and their attitude ,

I think you'll find the Swiss watch companies will disagree. They're very impressed by how expensive the equipment is that you have to purchase to get one other parts accounts. this of course is always amusing because expensive equipment does not necessarily mean that the person actually grasp what to do with the equipment or once they get the parts account will even use the equipment ever again. It's also sometimes amazing what an individual will do with seemingly primitive equipment versus expensive equipment.

[watchweasol]

We have all been reading / watching the videos (another Idiot) who as he proports to demonstrate his skills is a professional ?  . He may buy all the best equipment under the sun but he is still an idiot who has no respect for the movements he is working on,  be they his own or clients. But I understand what you mean looking the part wearing the monogrammed overall and having all the correct equipment etc,   creates an impression even if its a false one  

[jdrichard]

1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

We have all been reading / watching the videos (another Idiot) who as he proports to demonstrate his skills is a professional ?  . He may buy all the best equipment under the sun but he is still an idiot who has no respect for the movements he is working on,  be they his own or clients. But I understand what you mean looking the part wearing the monogrammed overall and having all the correct equipment etc,   creates an impression even if its a false one  

Hopefully not talking about me

[mikepilk]

3 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

In Texas...in the Summer.  It is easy to set volatile stuff out in a can or jar and let it evaporate.  Hot concrete is effective as well!

Don't need the hot Texas sun!  Cool British spring works. I poured half a cup full in to a large pot, and had a cloth hung up but dipped in to the fluid. Outside temperature, an unseasonably cool 10C, but low humidity - gone in 10 mins.

BTW I didn't buy the rinsing solution, I'll be using isopropanol as usual. 

[rodabod]

I think your solution should work on the mugs - simply a case of waiting until they become bright. If you plan to drink from them then I’d certainly use detergent afterwards!

[LittleWatchShop]

1 hour ago, jdrichard said:

Hopefully not talking about me

...or me

[watchweasol]

Gentlemen LWS and JD,   From watching JD's Videos I would say you are as good as any, . the quality of the work speaks for its self, which was the point I was trying to make.  LWS you are a thinker and analyse problems well and if I had cause to have either of you repair a watch for me I would have every confidence.    The point was more of a generality not a sleight on members or otherwise who take pride in what they do.  Hope no offence was taken.

[jdrichard]

1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

Gentlemen LWS and JD,   From watching JD's Videos I would say you are as good as any, . the quality of the work speaks for its self, which was the point I was trying to make.  LWS you are a thinker and analyse problems well and if I had cause to have either of you repair a watch for me I would have every confidence.    The point was more of a generality not a sleight on members or otherwise who take pride in what they do.  Hope no offence was taken.

All good:)

[LittleWatchShop]

OK!!!!! I have a spinning watch cleaning machine (not ultrasonic) coming my way.

Please. PLEASE PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Somebody just tell me which cleaning solution to buy.  I don't want to think about it any longer!!!!

???????????