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Mark

Omega 865 Chronostop Video Walkthrough

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I'll just have to get my finger out and out mine together. The only thing at has been holding me back, is I want to make up a fixture to allow me to re-grain the case first.

I haven't watched the videos yet, but I know they will be excellent as usual. Thanks Mark! :)

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Hi Mark,

There seems to be a problem with video No.1, here's a screenshot of the message. 2&3 work OK.

I couldn't even find No1 going in through You Tube.

post-124-0-83781500-1428169168_thumb.jpg

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Yes. It was still saying 3 minutes to finish for the past 45 minutes. I'm off to the pub. Sure it will sort itself out otherwise I will re-upload it

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Looks like it has got stuck, won't go past 93% uploaded so I have deleted it and am uploading again.

 

I have changed the link above to a playlist which includes the new video which will work when it's finished uploading (hopefully).

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Excellent 3-parter, Mark - I thoroughly enjoyed it and found it most instructive!

 

What a beautiful movement - got the old eBay salivating juices going... :D

The main plate looks as though it's seen some service action over the years - quite a few scratches, particularly around the stem removal screw...

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Hi Mark,

I watched your video but I had to turn it off after 2 minutes.

Why you ask?

Because of what I saw.

As a professional watchmaker I can't tell you how many times I have opened a watch case and seen botched workmanship, by botched workmanship I am referring to:

- scratches on the plates

- damaged screw heads

I see this on watches costing thousands and sometimes tens of thousands of euros.

It is completely avoidable and unaceptable under any circumstances.

I noted that in many cases your screwdriver blade is only 50% of the width of the screw slot, and I see you using a metal screwdriver blade to pry the componenets attached to the mainplate. Both of these actions cause irreparable damage to the movement, and both are avoidable by using acceptable practices.

Screwdriver blades should be selected to fit the largest diameter of the screw head without exceeding the diameter, and for prying off springs etc a simply pry blade can be fashioned out of brass and used without causing damage.

I realize that I am "new" here and you and the mods etc are probably going to be offended by my comments. If that is so and I am asked to leave so be it.

But as a professional I can't sit on the sidelines and accept a standard of workmanship that is resulting in damage to the movement, as professionals we have to maintain a high standard and never cause any damage to any watch under any circumstances, we know better and our customers deserve better.

Any watch that is serviced should leave the shop in exactly the same condition which it arrived.

 

Robert, Thank you for your thoughts which are understandable as you are a professional watchmaker.

 

 
I have explained this before. If there is a risk of the screw heads snapping I prefer to use under sized screwdriver which forces a lighter touch. It is something I am very used to and I do not damage any screw heads this way. 

I always encourage people to practice, practice and practice. This way you develop your own techniques which work well for you. 

In this case the screws for some of the chronograph parts, and in particular the operating lever, are quite fragile and require a very light touch. My personal method to make sure they are not over tightened is to use an under sized screwdriver. It's what I am used to and it works for me. If you prefer a different method then that's great too I would never criticise you for that.

 
Incidentally I saw Paul Shrouder at the BHI lifting plates with the blade of a screwdriver whilst at a seminar a few years ago - is he not a professional watchmaker? However, he has been doing it even longer than my 25 years in and I suppose he is even more used to his own techniques with all those years of pratice.
 
 
 
I agree with your points that scratching plates and causing damage is irresponsible and non-professional, and I am sure you are not suggesting that I caused them. I am happy for you to instruct on good practices using this forum, I welcome it. And I am sure the membership would also welcome it.
 
What I would prefer though Robert, is that you do it in an encouraging and non-pompous manner.
That would have been polite Robert.
That would have been professional!

Happy Easter :)

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It's clearly not my place to instruct anyone on anything.

You consider my comment as pompous, impolite and un-professional, so in that light I have removed it. It wasn't my intention to offend you in any way, and because English is my second language I can understand how the written word can be misinterprited.

There are standard practices for a reason, I didn't create them I simply follow them.

I'll leave my contibution at that, you have been here for many years and are an Admin and have a large following, I really have nothing more to say...

Joyeuse Paques to you also.

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Robert, I am trying to encourage a non-elitist forum here and so your comments are fully welcomed and your opinion matters. You are very very welcome to voice any concerns you have, I have no problem with that. I am not sure why you deleted the post I was truly not offended with it. As I said, I welcome all discussions on techniques and practices. But surely buy posting you were expecting a discussion or response, however, when I responded you deleted your original post!

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My opinion clearly doesn't matter.

I deleted my post because it was a mistake to critisize your workmanship.

Calling me pompous, impolite and un-professional doesn't really jive with your welcoming all discussions does it?

For the sake of any other members, I have decided that this isn't the place for me.

All the best to everyone in their watchmaking endevours.

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Hi Horlogerie, I hope you don't leave the forum. I like to look at your posts and your skilled work, and also you seem to be happy to give some of us novices some good advice. I certainly listen to what you say and I hope you still speak your mind on the forum. I find it very intriguing and interesting to hear you and Mark discussing horology

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I agree with Michael. I'm sure there is room for all kinds of techniques here. As long as damage is not being caused people should do what works for them is my opinion. Don't go so soon Horlogerie.

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Thanks Mark, fantastic video. I'll hold off a few months before I buy one of these movements. I've a sneaking suspension after members have watched your video, the value of these movements will increase. Everyone will want one.

May I ask what make & number tweesers you use.

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Thanks Mark, fantastic video. I'll hold off a few months before I buy one of these movements. I've a sneaking suspension after members have watched your video, the value of these movements will increase. Everyone will want one.

May I ask what make & number tweesers you use.

 

Thanks - I use Dumont's Dumostar size 2, 3 or 4

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Mark,

Great videos as always. I think you could put one a week up and I would be grateful! LOL  :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:  :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

I do have a question. What blue grease are you using? I may have missed your description.

 

Thanks,

Gary

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Thanks for another great video. I was on Ebay before the last chapter had even finished looking to see how much those watches go for, ha! I really like the look of the watch but it's an odd design, no minute or hour sub dial and it resets as soon as you let go of the pusher. Strange but I do like it.

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New three part video series detailing a walkthrough of the Omega chronostop calibre 865.

attachicon.gifservice-an-omega-chronostop-part1.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwP8fNxqhOvNh2cUekaLIp6jtkM7D7ttD

Great video Mark, I'm just in the process of getting my nerve up to service my first 920 chronostop & watching your fantastic video. Just one quick freshman question. When fitting the new mainspring. I noticed you didn't use braking grease on the barrel wall, I'm probably answering my own question. But is this due to it not being a slip spring(not sure that's the correct name)? Also, on that note, i realise it doesn't pertain to this video. But When fitting a new slip spring is it better to use mobi 8217 rather than 8200

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

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The Chronostop is not an automatic watch and is therefore not fitted with a slipping mainspring so a light coating of 8200 grease is all that is required on the mainspring.

When lubricating a spring and barrel for an automatic watch, the spring should be very slightly lubed with 8200 before being fitted into the barrel. The barrel wall should have three or four spots of 8217 placed on the inside barrel wall before the spring is inserted.

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The Chronostop is not an automatic watch and is therefore not fitted with a slipping mainspring so a light coating of 8200 grease is all that is required on the mainspring.

When lubricating a spring and barrel for an automatic watch, the spring should be very slightly lubed with 8200 before being fitted into the barrel. The barrel wall should have three or four spots of 8217 placed on the inside barrel wall before the spring is inserted.

Thanks Geo, that clears it up.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

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