Jump to content

Recommended Posts

A little update on the lids I had printed in PLA:

Ammonia vapors from L&R #111 pass through the printed lids with very little resistance.  The vapors don't seem to affect the print's structural properties, fortunately.

I reduced the vapors to nearly zero with 2 payers of clear plastic circles cut from a heavy plastic bag.  I sandwiched the plastic circles between the lid and the silicone Mason jar gaskets.  Doing it this way, the plastic circles stay in place when I remove the lids to run my machine.

If you're unfamiliar with L&R #111, it contains ammonia with very strong vapors (I recommend eye protection and gloves, at a minimum).  The L&R #3 rinse doesn't contain ammonia but it does have an odor.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 283
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

It bugged me that the L&R basket sets at an angle and is unstable.  So...I printed this holder for it.  Gonna make some improvements, but here it is for now.  

You can't, the time is fixed because the indexing motor runs a certain speed and it runs constantly until the basket drops into the next jar. You should concentrate instead on making sure the spi

Sorry, "You can't" might be a little strong.  If you give up on using the electro-mechanical timing and synchronizing system built into the machine out of simple cams and switches, and replace all tha

Posted Images

33 minutes ago, B42Woody said:

Ammonia vapors from L&R #111 pass through the printed lids with very little resistance

Interesting.  I have printed some gas can lids that seem to work well, but gasoline is a bigger molecule than the ammonia atom.

Are you printing at 100% fill?

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/16/2021 at 9:53 AM, LittleWatchShop said:

Are you printing at 100% fill?

I sent the STL file to my local makerplace for printing.  So, I'll have to get back to you with an answer.

FWIW, the print resolution seems to be very high (to me, anyway .... a complete noob to the 3D printing world).  Regardless of the resolution, I guess there will be porosity of some non-zero magnitude, right?  The lid top thickness is 2.22mm, BTW.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

What is the proper part distribution in the top basket?

There are four compartments.  So far, I dedicate the smallest compartment for the escape wheel and pallet fork.  If the train wheels fit, they go in the next larger basket...otherwise, the next larger one.

At present, I do not put the balance wheel or balance cock in the basket, but I am probably wrong about that...just being cautious.

The small plates go in the largest compartment.  The large plates go below.

Thoughts?

2021-05-17 13_31_20-Window.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Sounds like to me you have sorted it out pretty well, I would not put the balance in the cleaner but use "one Dip" or the modern equivalent or clean by hand carefully.  here is a video by our own  JD Richard no less.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Whilst on the cleaning of hairsprings I noticed while browsing that Bergeron have replaced one dip with this. Interesting as it claims to help remove old oils which can be an issue with the vintage watches with fixed cap jewels.  I will give it a try.
 

 

740ABF07-8AA3-45F8-984F-6CEDE392CF46.jpeg.34c9b0ce5b87e0c29d306b73d23abdda.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Black Train Wheels

Green Keyless parts.

Yellow Escape Wheel & Pallets

Blue Screws.

Never put the Balance complete in the cleaner.

Plates, stem any other parts in the bottom basket.

487768462_2021-05-1713_31_20-Window.png.fc7e182d646a0734da737180d02b2e6d.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • jdm pinned this topic
9 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

L&R basket sets at an angle and is unstable

Ah, you mean when it's not on top of the basket.  I like it.

On 3/16/2021 at 1:18 PM, B42Woody said:

Ammonia vapors from L&R #111 pass through the printed lids with very little resistance

I too have printed some lids for my jars.  I've been testing them with IPA for 2 weeks now and seen very little evaporation, this is at 25% infill.  But I like the idea of using a plastic circle (with the gasket) to be doubly sure.  Thanks.

 

Related to L&R machines.  I'm in the UK so parts are hard to find for these American machines.  I'm looking for the tray insert that has 4 or 5 compartments, if anyone could help me out.  Ebay has them occasionally but the shipping to the UK is extortionate.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/20/2021 at 7:03 AM, AshF said:

I too have printed some lids for my jars.  I've been testing them with IPA for 2 weeks now and seen very little evaporation, this is at 25% infill.  But I like the idea of using a plastic circle (with the gasket) to be doubly sure.  Thanks.

Related to L&R machines.  I'm in the UK so parts are hard to find for these American machines.  I'm looking for the tray insert that has 4 or 5 compartments, if anyone could help me out.  Ebay has them occasionally but the shipping to the UK is extortionate.

I filled my jars with #111 and #3 to the middle of "L&R" over 2 months ago and the levels have not dropped.  With my nose directly on the lid edges, I can detect a slight odor of the chemicals.  Surprisingly (to me), the silicone Amazon gaskets absorb the chemicals and swell especially on the jars with #3.  So, I suspect the tiny bit of evaporation is occurring through the gasket edges.

The Amazon gaskets came in a set of 8.  If a gasket is too swollen to reseal properly, I just swap it out with a spare.  The swollen gaskets shrink back to normal size overnight.  The plastic bag lid liners are working a charm.

What is a "tray insert"?  Could it also be called a basket insert?

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/18/2021 at 2:16 AM, clockboy said:

Whilst on the cleaning of hairsprings I noticed while browsing that Bergeron have replaced one dip with this. Interesting as it claims to help remove old oils which can be an issue with the vintage watches with fixed cap jewels.  I will give it a try.
 

 

740ABF07-8AA3-45F8-984F-6CEDE392CF46.jpeg.34c9b0ce5b87e0c29d306b73d23abdda.jpeg

Hi Clockboy-hey have you looked into this? I was digging and I found that this stuff and One Dip are pretty close on the chemical ladder. The 'B' is PCE Tetrachloroflourine and One Dip is TCE Trichloroethylene. Here ya go: also, there is an american version of One-Dip still available at Esslinger. 

Differences? I think one is less toxic than the other? Not much tho..

PCE/TCE?

Tetrachloroethylene is a chlorocarbon with the formula Cl₂C=CCl₂. It is a colorless liquid widely used for dry cleaning of fabrics, hence it is sometimes called “dry-cleaning fluid”.
The chemical compound trichloroethylene is a halocarbon commonly used as an industrial solvent. It is a clear non-flammable liquid with a sweet smell.

Uses

Tetrachloroethylene(preceded byTrichloroethylene) is used for dry cleaning and textile processing, as a chemical intermediate, and for vapor degreasing in metal-cleaning operations.Tetrachloroethylene became the most commonly used dry-cleaning solvent in the 1950s, replacing carbon tetrachloride, which was more toxic, and trichloroethylene, which was harsher on fabrics. 

Gawd I love it when cut n paste works.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Guys

My name is Chris and i am new to the Site, so Hello to all.

I could do with a bit of help or information,i have 2 Varimatic machines i am going to restore but i need some parts for them, the gear that drives the Jar table has broken teeth on one machine and the shaft that holds it on has a broken thread on the other machine, can take shaft of one and gear off the other to get on done but would love to save both machines. I also need a front cover for one, so if anyone has any spares please message me.

Many thanks

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi All! I obtained an L&R Master Cleaning Machine recently and it's in great shape except the lids on the L&R jars. I've been searching around, but haven't landed on a good solution--it seems the wide-mouth mason jar lids a just a bit too small. Has anyone found a good replacement for the lids? 

Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, JMHChicago said:

Hi All! I obtained an L&R Master Cleaning Machine recently and it's in great shape except the lids on the L&R jars. I've been searching around, but haven't landed on a good solution--it seems the wide-mouth mason jar lids a just a bit too small. Has anyone found a good replacement for the lids? 

I see them on ebay from time to time.  I bought a lid and jar a couple of months ago.  Just keep looking.

Seems like somebody posted an stl file that can be printed...or else I imagined myself designing and printing one.  Most likely, you want a genuine lid, so the 3D route may not be of interest.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

28 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I see them on ebay from time to time.  I bought a lid and jar a couple of months ago.  Just keep looking.

Seems like somebody posted an stl file that can be printed...or else I imagined myself designing and printing one.  Most likely, you want a genuine lid, so the 3D route may not be of interest.

 

Thanks! will do--I just didn't know if there was another jar lid out there that was the same size--it doesn't sounds like it outside of a 3D printed one.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/17/2021 at 11:35 AM, LittleWatchShop said:

At present, I do not put the balance wheel or balance cock in the basket, but I am probably wrong about that...just being cautious.

some of this depends upon the type of watch? If it's a modern watch with jewels for the balance that can be removed then witschi do is remove the balance with bridge. Disassemble the rest of the watch put the balance back in with a screw to hold it in place remove the jewel assemblies and clean the watch like that. The balance is protected by the bridge hairspring doesn't get distorted everything be fine. Otherwise you just take the balance off the bridge and putting her in a thimble baskets or somewhere. Because commercial shops run balance wheels through the ultrasonic all the time with no problem.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh my...you should have hyphenated "leather-working" because it modifies "forum."  I will contact the administrator to see about having you kicked off!!
    • Welcome to WRT  forum.  
    • Thanks for the reply! I live in the US and I do have most of the stuff I need. I do have a full set of Moebius greases and oils as well. Looking at the 1900 for a while now, so I'll probably pick that up. As I said, I have a pretty good set of tools including hand levers, Presto Tools, Bergeon Screwdrivers, Dumont tweezers, loupes and other magnifiers, movement bed, Bergeon hand oilers and pots, Bergeon movement-holder, pith and peg wood, Rodico, etc, etc, etc. I have a couple of Seagull 6498s and a Seagul 2824-2 to practice destroying....er.....assembling and reassembling.
    • The intro is like something from a tv show but the instructional parts seem to be from a live training course. I'm 5 videos in and hooked, will be watching them all, great find!
    • you left out an important detail by the way? A lot of this depends upon where you live.. One of the recommendations I like to give beginners is purchasing a brand-new 6497  Chinese clone  as the Swiss originals too expensive in the clone works just fine.. Then you definitely want a timegrapher iin the beginning there very cheap now compared to what they once cost either the Chinese 1000 or the 1900 are both excellent machines. So if you have a new timing machine  and a new watch  you can llearn how to properly time things on the machine. You can look at your brand-new watch see how it functions. Then you can taken apart  and put it back together  and put it back on the timing machine and see if it still functions. Timing machines are more than just timing their diagnostic devices. There's so many questions newbies ask where if they just a timing machine it would help narrow the problem down considerably. Does not like you can hold the watch to your four head and absorb the knowledge of its problems you need  ways of doing diagnostics. Then unfortunately magnetized watches don't run well  they will have issues. aa unfortunate problem with watch repair is that is a heck of a lot of specialty tools that sooner or later would be really nice to have.. As long a basic tools you have to have.  Then when you get in the lubrication  is some of those are nice to have an they're not exactly cheap  so this isn't exactly a really cheap hobby.  
×
×
  • Create New...