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Hamilton 683 malfunctioning


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This Hamilton electronic equipped with 683 is not working . I placed a new battery and the balance wheel started moving after a manila push but second hand is not moving. If I look closely it's rocking back and forth but not moving. Any suggestions ?

 

 

 

 

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It could be a warned battery if the balance wheel is kicking and the second hand moves back & forth -( a typical sign of low battery power).  Even new quartz watches some tell tale sign when battery is low the second hand kicks back & forth as a signal for battery change.  The gear train needs lubrication.

Edited by Elton
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Do you know when it was last serviced? Electric watches, quartz watches and mechanical watches all require from time to time servicing. Cleaning replacing of lubricant with fresh lubricant otherwise when the old lubrication goes bad your watch can stop including electric and quartz watches.  Your movement appears to be a ESA 9154 Although it could be a 9150 you'll have to get the numbers off the plate they're not visible well enough to see in your photographs. To give you a clue what you're looking for them attaching an image of where the numbers appear to be.

Then a link that talks about transistorized balance wheel watches. A limited information parts list of the 9154 as it looks like they didn't scan the entire service manual? In case it is a 9150 I think I have a better service information. But oh wait and see what the number is off the plate

 

https://electric-watches.co.uk/movement-types/transistorised/

actual movement number.JPG

3540_ETA 9154.pdf

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My lucky trick worked , I added a couple of drops of lighter fluid and it started working. Thanks everyone for all the support , I was nervous to open this one it's so complicated and I am still not good at opening movement

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    • Hello everybody, sorry for the late reply. Thank you all so much for your help and your tips. I got lucky and found a replacement wheel bridge for cheap which actually ended up being in decent condition. I decided not to do anything about the mainspring barrel pivot since I didn't have the right tools and the barrel didn't have much endshake anyhow. I am happy to report that the watch now runs great, I have regulated it to about +-10/s day which is fine by my standards. The timegrapher result looks decent as well, although beat error is around 0.6ms which could be better I suppose. Amplitude reaches over 230 quite consistently which I'm happy with also. My lighter fluid has also been replaced by balance spring cleaning solution and now the springs don't stick to themselves anymore - who would have thought. I'm super happy with this watch, it might not be worth a whole lot but it's awesome that I could restore it and it makes me wear it with pride. To me it's a genuinely good lucking watch, it'll be my daily driver for a while. Thanks again to everybody for their input! I couldn't have done the repair without your help.   Here are some images for those interested, the bracelet isn't original but I don't really mind:    
    • Balance-hairspring system is oscillator with big Q-factor. When all in the movement is OK, the rate (frequency) is verry close to the own resonant frequency of the balance-hairspring. But in some cases, the movement (with foult) will force the resonator to work on pritty different frequency, sometimes faster, and sometimes slower. When this happens, the amplitude is always weak. So, the first thing to ask is what is the amplitude. If it is more than 180 and the hairspring doesn't touch itself and anything else, then for sure it is 'short'. If the amplitude is weak, then the first thing to do is to understand why and rectify the problem. At this time no point to check timekeeping. But, if one doubts that the hairspring is not correct, then He needs to calcullate the rate of the movement, then to 'vibrate' the balance-hairspring out of the movement and to measure the free oscillations frequency (period) with timer in order to ensure that they comply with the rate. If we have pictures, then it will be easier to tell something about that wheel.
    • So much work has gone into this! Thanks again @Jon. I will go back and check my adjustments from last weekend. A few questions for you, if you don't mind. In the reset position, I can understand the problem if the gap between the hammer and the minute counter heart is too big (slide 77) but what is bad about both hammers being in contact with the cams (slide 76)? I read somewhere that Landeron recommended grease on the runner cam, but the minute counter heart should be dry. Is that so, and why? How many tads in a ligne?
    • Could you glue two pieces together for rigidity and separate after forming? 
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