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Issue with Bulova 23


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Hello all,

was working on servicing this Bulova 23 I got at a pawn shop.  It was running before, but stopping.  I stripped it all down and cleaned it.  I was putting it back together and oiling it today and I finally got the balance back it and this is what it is doing.  I have checked the banking manually and it looks ok so I am guessing the balance is the issue?  Any help is appreciated.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CS44qkVSn1YwgFmt8

it is like the balance banks everything correctly and then stops

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It looks like something is rubbing or scraping. The above suggestions seem likely.

For these watches, it is common for the hairspring to rub against the arms of the balance wheel or against the underside of the balance cock.

You might confirm that the wheel isn't rubbing against the pallet bridge or the center wheel.

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Observe the coil from side view of the balance while running, a close up video of balance looking streight down on the bridge and side view showing the coil helps.

Coil should be flat, level with concentric circles and not foul itself.

Judging from the previous video, amplitude seems good which is a sign of hairspring free from rubbing, however you give the balance plenty of swing when you nudge it,  instead gently move the wheel see if it picks up and go at some point. (I think the balance is out of beat)

I always put just  the balance complete and bridge back( no other part)  on the mainplate for final adjustment leveling etc.  it will give you almost 330 access to the HS  around the balance wheel 

What happens if you turn a gear, third or center ? 

 

 

 

 

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I'll second that it's a good practice to replace just the balance complete prior to assembly so you can get a good look at the hairspring.

After doing that, you can add the pallet fork and bridge to see how the fork and jewel interact.

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Thanks so much for all the suggestions, troubleshooting alone is super frustrating.  I did inspect the teeth on the escape wheel under magnification for a full rotation and didn't see anything out of the ordinary

 

Here are some more videos of it running.  Excuse the potato quality.  I was filming from my ipad through a magnifier.  Though it seems to have decided to start running since last night.  The only thing I did different since this was to give the balance complete a lighter fluid bath

Bulova 23 issue https://imgur.com/gallery/PN5Ocr7

 

Edited by Wdschell
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Solved I think...

I decided to give everything another look and low and behold the pallet fork stones basically fell out while I was inspecting it.

I decided to check them with just a little pressure and the moved.  Best to get a new fork or can these be glued back in?

IMG_20210302_142944__01.jpg

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53 minutes ago, Wdschell said:

 Best to get a new fork or can these be glued back in?

Pallets are usually shelaced since it wont harm the base metal forks are forged out of, Marks shows how to make this tool to warm the fork on and shelac the pallet jewels, I use epoxy five on cheap pieces.

 Pallets adjustment is no easy task, nevertheless if you like to give it a try, there be plenty help and advice besides Marks lessons.

I couldn't find a link to relevent threads , some one may have more luck than I and find em.

 

 

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Loose pallet jewels would do it. This is an uncommon fault, so it's worth reflecting on the cleaning procedures to see if something could have dissolved or softened the shellac. You might also check the roller jewel, which is also secured with shellac.

Replacing the jewels is not too hard, but replacing them to the proper depth is another matter. It's interesting and worth trying, but you might source a replacement pallet fork for now while you read up on it.

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10 minutes ago, WellAdjusted said:

Loose pallet jewels would do it. This is an uncommon fault, so it's worth reflecting on the cleaning procedures to see if something could have dissolved or softened the shellac. You might also check the roller jewel, which is also secured with shellac.

Replacing the jewels is not too hard, but replacing them to the proper depth is another matter. It's interesting and worth trying, but you might source a replacement pallet fork for now while you read up on it.

Dang I didn't think about the roller jewel dissolving too.  I used some generic jewelry cleaner on the fork.  I just lighter fluid on the balance complete.  I'll check it.  I am currently sourcing a 10bzac movement for the fork.  I think Dave's watch parts has one.  Waiting to hear back

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12 hours ago, Wdschell said:

pallet fork stones basically fell out while I was inspecting it.

It's extremely unusual that the pallet stones fallout I would definitely change your cleaning fluid. Sometimes they can be loose but usually there's visually still shellac on them

Then if you decide to put the stones back in they have to go in a specific location. The angle on each stone is slightly different so you have to put the right stone in the right slot. Then a course comes the fun of adjustment which is why we use shellac because it allows you to warm it up shellac softens the stones can be moved in and out as necessary.

Then you want to be careful when you using generic jewelry cleaners or other cleaning fluids because interesting things can happen that normally wouldn't happen if you're using proper fluids. Jewelry cleaners are not usually expecting all sorts of different metals and that can result in interesting undesirable consequences also.

7 hours ago, Wdschell said:

the impulse jewel is safe

.Roller jewel's especially on American pocket watches do tend to suffer more than the pallet stones. So in the case of a pocket watches it's always worthy to check the roller jewel to make sure it still  locked in place.

 

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Just wanted to update this thread again. 

It was indeed my fault for using the wrong cleaner to clean the pallet fork.

I got the new parts movement yesterday, installed the pallet fork and was having the same issue.  The escape wheel looked fine but since I had another I went ahead and swapped it in and voila, it is ticking away and I cant hear or see anything wrong with it now.  I inspected the old gear, but I just cant see anything wrong with it.  Even compared it to the one I swapped in. 

Looks great on the time grapher now.  Thanks for all of your help in this.  Mostly, I need to bounce ideas off of someone when troubleshooting and you guys were awesome for that.  I am sure I will be around again as I think my Seiko 6139 has a loose canon pinion ?

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    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
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