Jump to content

Refurbish cross-slide...seized metal


Recommended Posts

This cross-slide was part of my inheritance.  Seems to work fine, but I decided to clean it up today.

All went well except for this handle and brass knob.  The handle is seized to the SS rod.  Right now, I am soaking it in WD40.

I am being very careful not to damage anything.

The rod, as I said, is likely stainless steel.  The handle appears to be a non-magnetic cast metal.  Since It is not magnetic, aluminum would be my guess, but it is pretty hard (seems to hard for aluminum).

Any thoughts?  I know some of you guys tear down and clean this kind of stuff.

2021-03-01 14_02_40-Photos.png

Edited by LittleWatchShop
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On a cross slide, I’d expect that thread to be carbon steel. Not that it makes a huge amount of difference. 
 

I’d use shock (tap with a light hammer) or heat (but only just too hot to touch so as not to adjust temper) to help loosen jammed parts. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, what I did was soak it in WD40 for 24 hours.  Then, with a tap tap on each side of the handle with a leather mallet, tugging with my hands and a little very careful prying it came of.  Then the removal of the brass know was a little of the same process without the prying. 

Soaked the brass in lemon juice.  The brass know is two pieces.  I had to drill a hole in a block of wood that was bigger than the insert but smaller than the knob.  Then with a wooden dowel, I knocked out the center piece.

The center piece should have a spring that keeps pressure on the outer knob.  It appears to be complete eaten away.  Wow.

I will post pictures later

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀       
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
    • Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
×
×
  • Create New...