I've entered the rabbit hole

[GuyMontag]

I forget just how I decided to start learning about watchmaking, but here I am. Other than my Garmin watch that I use to track my backpacking activities, I only own one "real" watch, a 1928 Bulova Surrey that I bought on Ebay 15 years ago. I think it was probably that watch that sparked an interest as it stopped running many years ago and has just sat in drawer ever since. I remember looking at ways to service it over the years and I think I just figured I'd try and see if I couldn't do it myself and here I am

I've gone through the first two of Mark's courses and have been practicing on some scrap watches I got off of ebay. I'm a retired dentist and some of the hand/eye skills do seem to carry over but as I watch some of the videos I have filmed of myself as I've stripped and then rebuilt movements I do see that I'm a bit heavy handed. I need to add another fine motor gear or two into my repertoire

It looks like there is a great community here and I'm looking forward to climbing that road to where I can at least service that beautiful Bulova in my drawer. OK, I'm off to post my first of what I'm sure will be one of many questions 

[GuyMontag]

I figured I'd post the watch that started me on this journey. It really is quite gorgeous. I saved the photos from the original ebay listing. The listing said, "ART DECO 1930s BULOVA ENGRAVED CASE WATCH NEAR MINT"

I've since learned that the watch is not from the 1930's but is a 1928 Surrey. Also, not mentioned in the listing is that it was recased in an Illinois Watch Co. case. I actually like this case much more than the original Surrey case so I can't really complain about that. The only real issue is that the movement just kind floats in the case since the movement isn't actually attached to the case in any way.

 

[Nucejoe]

Welcome to the forum.

[HectorLooi]

Hi, welcome to WRT from an almost retired dentist.

Yes, our years of working with our hands has given us a boost in the hobby. But there are things in horology that can test the best of our skills.

Good luck and enjoy your new hobby.

[clockboy]

Welcome to the forum and enjoy. PS lovely vintage watch indeed.

[Michael1962]

Welcome to the forum Guy.

Can you manufacture your own movement ring? ( I've forgotten the correct term) to put around the movement to secure it in the case?

As @clockboy said, nice looking watch.

[GuyMontag]

5 hours ago, Michael1962 said:

Welcome to the forum Guy.

Can you manufacture your own movement ring? ( I've forgotten the correct term) to put around the movement to secure it in the case?

As @clockboy said, nice looking watch.

I think that would be beyond my capabilities at this point, but something I hadn't thought about so I'll keep that on the back burner in case I ever do get that level.

[LarryH]

Great looking watch, welcome to the forums!

[HectorLooi]

7 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

I think that would be beyond my capabilities at this point, but something I hadn't thought about so I'll keep that on the back burner in case I ever do get that level.

Movement rings don't have to be made of metal. You could use a piece of acrylic, like a mouthguard/splint type of material and cut it into shape.

I not sure if there are prefabricated rectangular movement rings, but there are prefab round ones.

[GuyMontag]

1 minute ago, HectorLooi said:

Movement rings don't have to be made of metal. You could use a piece of acrylic, like a mouthguard/splint type of material and cut it into shape.

I not sure if there are prefabricated rectangular movement rings, but there are prefab round ones.

That's true, I didn't think of that. I'm sure I can MacGyver something like that up

[Michael1962]

I was thinking of some type of sheet plastic/nylon as well. Cutting a rectangle and removing the centre would be easy. I am not sure how you would go about working out the thickness required? Might just be some thickness and depth measurements. And then how to sort of make the ring 'clip' onto the movement.

Look at some other movement rings to get an idea of what you would want your to be fashioned like.

[Michael1962]

What about something like this? The tabs that would go between the back of the movement and the caseback could be moved to where required so they sit on plates or bridges. Just need to add a groove in one of the sides for the stem.

Another idea would be to work out the dimensions, draw it up and get someone to 3D print it.

Bulova Movement Ring.pdf

[GuyMontag]

9 hours ago, Michael1962 said:

What about something like this? The tabs that would go between the back of the movement and the caseback could be moved to where required so they sit on plates or bridges. Just need to add a groove in one of the sides for the stem.

Another idea would be to work out the dimensions, draw it up and get someone to 3D print it.

Bulova Movement Ring.pdf 42.2 kB · 2 downloads

Yeah, that looks like a great idea. I'll give something like that a shot when I service the service the watch.

[Michael1962]

I'll admit I'm jealous of the watch. As soon as I saw it I thought it looked great. Wife liked it as well. I agree with you on the case. I don't know what the original case looked like, but that one just works.

I have looked at a lot of the watches in a jewellers where I live and not one of them grabs my eye like yours.

It's a keeper.  

[VWatchie]

On 2/27/2021 at 4:16 AM, GuyMontag said:

It looks like there is a great community here and I'm looking forward to climbing that road to where I can at least service that beautiful Bulova in my drawer.

If you successfully completed Mark's first two courses I think you're ready to take on that gorgeous Bulova of yours. It's basic design should be very similar to the Unitas 6498 used in the courses. It probably won't have anti-shock springs but Unless you haven't already noticed, Mark has a bonus video named "NON SHOCK PROTECTED VINTAGE WATCHES – VINTAGE WATCH REPAIR TUTORIAL" which will become available as soon as you've passed the test quiz for Level 2.

[GuyMontag]

3 hours ago, Michael1962 said:

I'll admit I'm jealous of the watch. As soon as I saw it I thought it looked great. Wife liked it as well. I agree with you on the case. I don't know what the original case looked like, but that one just works.

I have looked at a lot of the watches in a jewellers where I live and not one of them grabs my eye like yours.

It's a keeper.  

Ha, thanks Yeah, it really jumped out at me too when I first saw it. I'm sure I paid more than it's "worth", but I don't care, I just love the look of it.

2 hours ago, VWatchie said:

If you successfully completed Mark's first two courses I think you're ready to take on that gorgeous Bulova of yours. It's basic design should be very similar to the Unitas 6498 used in the courses. It probably won't have anti-shock springs but Unless you haven't already noticed, Mark has a bonus video named "NON SHOCK PROTECTED VINTAGE WATCHES – VINTAGE WATCH REPAIR TUTORIAL" which will become available as soon as you've passed the test quiz for Level 2.

Yes, the 10AN has rubbed-in jewels with no shock protection. I did watch that video of Mark's and will definitely reference that when I service the Bulova. Just as I started Mark's course I picked up an ebay lot of 120 scrap movements with a number of vintage Bulova's. I've since stripped down and reassembled a couple of them, both of which didn't work and now do, so I think I probably could tackle it as well. I do want to work on my hand skills a little more though as I still occasionally slip and I don't want to scratch up anything. I also don't feel 100% about evaluating how clean jewels are and I think I really need a microscope. I'm about to order an Eakins scope, an Amscope clone from Aliexpress and I think that will help.

I've also since acquired more than that one vintage Bulova. In fact, I've probably "acquired" more than is good for me. I have a few more vintage Bulova's, Hamilton's, Elgin's, and a couple of vintage chronographs including a WWI chronograph which if anything will be a kick in the pants to keep on learning. All of these were described as working but most of them were not when I received them.  Is there no honor among collectors?

Edited March 14, 2021 by GuyMontag

[Michael1962]

Where do you find a lot of 120 watches? Unless I want to take the gamble of shipping from overseas, I haven't seen anything like that in Australia.

Am i looking in the wrong places?

[GuyMontag]

I found it on Ebay. I think I had a search of "watches"  and "lot". There seems to be a steady supply of scrap job lots that come up. I didn't look too closely but here is one with 100 watches:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Watch-lot-100-watches-and-large-batch-of-stretch-bands/133687337260?hash=item1f2062e12c:g:ZGEAAOSwjqNgR5PB

I don't worry too much as a buyer on Ebay. Buyer's have all the power, at least here in the US, not sure about elsewhere. Ebay will, 99.99% of the time, side with the buyer and refund the buyer no matter the circumstances. I've had friends who have sold high dollar amount items on Ebay only to have the buyer claim the item wasn't as described. At that point Ebay asks the buyer to return the item (at the sellers expense) for a refund, and the buyer can fill a box full of rocks and send that back, claiming that is what they received and Ebay will side with the buyer.  I will never sell any high dollar item on ebay. As a buyer, Ebay is a scammers paradise.

 

 

Edited March 14, 2021 by GuyMontag

[GuyMontag]

Here is another one:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Estate-Lot-Antique-Mens-And-Ladies-Wrist-Watch-Movements/353407139956?hash=item5248b50074:g:vnEAAOSwKqJgP9wx

[VWatchie]

6 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

Yes, the 10AN has rubbed-in jewels with no shock protection.

Yes of course, rubbed-in jewels as well. I didn't think of that. I've actually avoided these really old watches so far. Replacing and adjusting these rubbed-in jewels seems pretty tricky.

 

7 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

I do want to work on my hand skills a little more though as I still occasionally slip and I don't want to scratch up anything.

If that's slipping with your screwdrivers I have a couple of suggestions if I may (you didn't ask for my advice). Firstly, make sure you use the correct width of blade for the screw at hand. Secondly, dress the blade well so that it fits the screw slot securely, and thirdly (and perhaps most importantly) keep the screwdriver as perpendicular as you possibly can over the screw. If the screwdriver is tilting in one direction the blade will slip in the opposite direction. Also, small screws require a lot less torque than larger screws. I don't know how many small screws I've damaged by over tightening them and slipping out of the screw slot.

 

7 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

I also don't feel 100% about evaluating how clean jewels are and I think I really need a microscope.

Yes, you do need a microscope! I got myself a cheap Chinese 20X/40X stereo microscope early on and I've never regretted it. It is a blessing. With it I can clearly see what's going on and the result of it. Be it oiling, fitting something really minuscule such as a Seiko anti-shock spring for an escape wheel, and so on. If interested you can read more about my experiences here

 

7 hours ago, GuyMontag said:

All of these were described as working but most of them were not when I received them.  Is there no honor among collectors?

Nope, it's usually all about making a buck! I'm very much into Vostoks, Poljots, Raketas, and so on and they're basically always sold "as serviced" but they never are. Well, perhaps dipped in a can of naphtha, left to dry, and then flooded with some seed oil.