Jump to content

Recommended Posts

7 hours ago, Klassiker said:

That's the first time I've seen a toothed drive belt in use. Do you have toothed pulleys too?

No teeth on drive, or headstock.  Just friction.  As I recall...my dad had a leather belt installed back in the day.  Not sure what caused the transition.  It is a very nice belt and will never break--pretty sure of that.

It is quiet.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, LittleWatchShop said:

will never break-

You can be very sure of that! The concern I would have with a toothed belt is, they have no stretch in them, like a drive chain. You have a relatively small area of adjustment, outside of which there is either too little tension (slipping) or too much (radial load on the bearings). But If it works for you, then fine!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have the same tension on either a round leather belt or the toothed V-belt, no more radial load will be exerted on the bearings.

Due to contact area of the V-belt versus a round belt, you will get more power transferred to the lathe before the belt slips under load.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Watchmakers are interesting people we adapt and use things from a variety of sources.

One popular method of belts is something that  can be fused together. heat up the ends push them together clean up the access and I never like that as it is really hard to do. But it was popularly sold because you can have any size you want.

Then somebody discovered sewing machine belts. Exactly what's being discussed here the perfect solution other than you have to disassemble lathe to put them on. Even though supposedly they don't scratch they do stretch enough to hold nice and tight they do work really well. About the only downfall that I noticed if you don't use your lathe on a regular basis to keep the belt under tension it stretches. But I doubt you're ever going to see that under normal use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I will get a feel for this over time and adjust accordingly

With your set-up you can adjust the tension then clamp everything down so it doesn't move. "Slipping with some amount of resistance" is probably about right. That's an engine timing belt, so it won't stretch, ever. it might wear though, or it might wear your pulleys. If you want to run on one of those smaller pulleys you will have to readjust for tension and alignment. The Singer v-belt might be the better option, but you have to dismantle everything again to try it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting debate my take is the there is no real need for a toothed belt with a watchmakers lathe because of the small cuts made. My worry would be if there was a mishap/jam the smooth belt would slip but a toothed belt would till try to carry on turning the lathe. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would agree if it was using a toothed pulley then yes,  but some toothed belts are "V" belts toothed for easier curvature around pulleys but the "V"pulley is smooth so slippage occurs.  There was some Large printers I worked on that had both types driving the print barrel,  solid brass with a beryillium coating so the hammers did not flatten the characters..    600 Lpm and 300Lpm.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

5 hours ago, clockboy said:

My worry would be if there was a mishap/jam the smooth belt would slip but a toothed belt would till try to carry on turning the lathe. 

My only experience with watchmakers lathe belts before the sewing machine belt was round and smooth. I don't recall ever having a problem with round and smooth because there's always tension on the belt. Yes if you're trying to make a really aggressive cut it will probably slip but watchmakers lathes aren't really meant to be machining heavy cuts. Then there's the shape of the pulley on the lathe they seem to be designed for a round.

The link below shows lathe belting material and it's all round. Farther down the page some of its textured.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/lathe-belting-also-for-rota-barrel-drums?code=L58234

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have round section pulleys, you should use round belt material. If you have V section pulleys, you should use a v-belt.

It should be remembered though that a v-belt only contacts the pulley on its sides. The inner face of the belt should not be running on the bottom surface of the V on the pulleys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Klassiker said:

Well, the convention on watchmaking lathes is to use a round belt in a v-groove, hence my original question to LittleWatchShop.

Correct. The material used is soft and will adapt itself to the shape of the pulley grove, and elastic enough to deal with some elongation. That is, self adjusting for tension. 

Very different from bigger belt machines. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I picked up another lathe...just because I guess.  I did not have a motor nor tail stock.  I scavenged a motor from an old sewing machine I had in the queue for the dump (whew, glad I woke up regarding that).

I needed a belt.  Imagine that.  After trying a leather shoe lace I did some research and found that some people use PU (polyurethane) belts and melt them together to form a continuous loop.

I do not have any PU, however, I have 3mm TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) used for 3D printing.  Voila!  Seems to be working just fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...